The Hair Repair Balancing Act

If you've been keeping up with my progress thus far you will know that I have really been struggling to find the right moisture-protein balance for my hair to no avail. Up to this point I have been killing my hair with protein overload, largely because I was not very knowledgeable about protein based products. I mean I had some knowledge of reconstructors and protein deep conditioners, but I really was lost when it came to most basic daily products (e.g. leave ins, "moisturizers"). As a result, I have been piling on the protein turning my hair into a dry, crinkly, mess!

So I have done my research and I think I may be able to get a handle on this thing. I have to send a shout out to Sunshyne for posting such an extensive list of hair products. The time and effort she put into generating that list has helped me out immensely. Along with a few websites I have come across I have been able to create another hair regimen to see where that takes me...fingers crossed.

Now if I need to make this even more difficult, I am really trying to reach an all natural hair product regimen...but I will take this one step at a time.

For your own reference I have included a few examples of hair products you can try to create your own regimen (this is by no means extensive, and really only include the products I am aware of). Remember, keep it simple and make sure you have the basics "ingredients" to get you started: moisturizing shampoo, clarifying shampoo, 2* deep conditioners** (moisture and protein), leave in conditioner, daily moisturizer (depending on the leave in you choose it may be able to double up and your daily moisturizer instead of buying a separate one), natural oil for sealing. With this in place you should be on your way!

Moisturizing Shampoo:

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo 

Creme of Nature Shampoo 

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Jason Sea Kelp Shampoo
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Hair One Cleansing Conditioner
Wen Cleansing Conditioner
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)

Clarifying Shampoo :
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (currently using)

Moisturizing Conditioners: 

Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner

AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Conditioner 

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Conditioner 

Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner

Elasta QP DPR-11

Elucence Moisture Balance conditioner

KeraCare Humecto
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse

Mizani Hydrafuse
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment
Joico Moisture Recovery
Nexxus Humectress
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Lustrasilks Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus 

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (currently using)

Protein Conditioners:

(can be used 1x/week or bi-weekly):
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner

Creme Of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor

Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

Lekair Cholesterol Plus
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner

Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor 

Creme of Nature Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics GPB 

Egg mixed with light conditioner

(can be used 1-2x/month):

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor

Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner

Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner

Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment
Natural Henna (currently using)

(should not be used any sooner than every 6 weeks):

Vitale Reconstructor

Affirm 5in1 Reconstructor

Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment 

Nexxus Emergencee

Nexxus Keraphix
Komaza Protein Hair Strengthener
Mizani Kerafuse 

Leave in Conditioner:
Moisture based:
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Nexxus Humectress
SCurl No Drip Activator
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 

  

Protein based:
Nexxus Headress Weightless Leave-In Conditioner
Infusium 23 Original

Profectiv Breakfree Moisturizer 

Profectiv Megagrowth Moisturizer 

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructerizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in 

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme

Redken Anti-Snap Leave-in

Chi Keratin Mist

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Daily Moisturizers:

(Use 1-2x/day to hydrate the hair): 

Moisture based:

S-Curl No Drip Activator

Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Creme
Hollywood beauty Carrot Oil

ORS Olive Oil

ORS Carrot Oil 

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion  
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix (currently using)

Protein based:

Cantu Shea butter,

Elasta QP Mango Butter

Profective Healthy Ends 

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk 
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Natural Oil:

Avocado Oil (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil  (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil  (currently using on my scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on my scalp and Castor Oil in my DC) 
Macadamia Nut Oil 

Safflower Oil

Now just from reviewing this list and what I am and was currently using I can clearly see where I went wrong. For starters, I never clarify, I don't moisturize on a daily basis and as I stated above, I am using way too much protein. I suggest that if you are also struggling to meet your hair goals you also review the list, check off what you are doing or aren't doing and shape it up. Hope that helps you in your effort to reach your hair goals.

Happy hair growth!

                                 

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair. 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Seven

Day 42-48 (Dec 6-12, 2009)

So I am away on vacation, and although I am dedicated to keeping my journey updated I have my limits. I mean it's called a vacation for a reason--and it's the Maya Riviera ! Anyway, I am committed to completing this experiment, so I brought along a pre-mixed bottle of my jojoba/castor oil/EO oils blend. I oiled my scalp three times during the week, on alternate days and boy did my scalp itch (on my non oil days). I guess I really need to find a pattern that works for me. Oiling it enough that it minimizes my itchy scalp, but doesn't causes other aliments in the process (e.g. sores, excess oily scalp).

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Six

Day 35 (Nov 29, 2009)

Sitting here with some henna in my hair. I am trying to alternate between my henna treatments and the various other conditioners I have until they are gone....Anyway, my scalp itches a little, but I have yet to put my JBCO/EO blend on my scalp. I have noticed that my hair has been breaking a little bit and I've had a good amount of  shedding.

Day 36 (Nov 30, 2009)

I have noticed that my hair seems to be more substantial around my hairline. Nothing too major, but significant growth in that area. My hair itches here and there, but nothing too bad. I am noticing that my hair seems to retaining moisture a lot better than before. Before the challenge I noticed that my hair would be a little dry when I took down my twist. Now, my hair feels moist and strong. The henna treatment is the bomb! My hair feels so much stronger after a treatment. Very little to no breakage!. I will definitely say I have reached my second mini goal

Day 37 (Dec 1, 2009)

Going steady, doing the massage thing. My hair feels good.

Day 38 (Dec 2, 2009)

A lot more of the same from the past day

Day 39 (Dec 3, 2009)

I was going to pass on oiling my scalp today, but it itches too much. Noticing some blistering (or is it a pimple?) on my scalp as well...not quite sure why. Perhaps putting this on my scalp more than 3-4 times a week causes this. I've also noticed some growth, however I am not sure it is anymore than I would have accomplished on my own. I see all these women talking about how much growth they encountered--I don't see it....

Day 40 (Dec 4, 2009)

I oiled my scalp today with my pre-shampoo scalp blend. Reason for the change is my upcoming vacation . Little gift to myself, but I digress. I plan to prep my hair tonight and wash tomorrow because I won't have any time Sunday when I usually do it.

Day 41 (Dec 5, 2009)

Wash day: I have noticed that my new growth is very soft. Nice surprise. My hair is already pretty soft, but it seemed even softer making my new growth less noticeable. I wonder if that is why I haven't "seen" as much new growth as I expected. I mean I am use to have this very coarse tightly curled hair, and now it is some much softer and a bit smoother. I have noticed some length when I pulled out my twist, but the true gains I've achieved will reveal themselves on relaxer day. Truthfully at this rate I may even be able to stretch out my relaxers. That has been a issue in the past. I have made the dire mistake of stretching too long and setting myself back because I lost so much hair due to breakage at the line of demarcation. Anyway, I'll play it by ear.

                                 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Five

Day 28 (Nov 22, 2009)

So it's the day after my third shampoo. I will say, my hair was a lot fuller and somewhat stronger--than it has been in the past, but I will say I would like it to be a bit stronger. Don't get me wrong I want to believe that the JBCO is to reason for these changes, but I can't. I mean true, my hair feels different than it has in the past, but I am only putting this oil on my scalp--not my hair, so how can that be explained? The new growth is minimal, although I will say my hairline seems to be filling in. All in all, not the results I expected at all, but it's not bad either. JBCO will probably be a staple.

Day 29 (Nov 23, 2009)

I oiled my scalp today. I plan to really try to follow my regimen to help me see results. I must say the only results I have seen has been the improvement in my scalp condition.

Day 30 (Nov 24, 2009)
Little to no itchiness. Let's keep it going... 


Day 31 (Nov 25, 2009)
Same as above...


Day 32 (Nov 26 2009)
I didn't get to oil my scalp today. My scalp seems fine.


Day 33 (Nov 27, 2009)
Same as yesterday...noticing some itching.


Day 34 (Nov 28, 2009)
Same as two previous days...noticing some more itching, especially in the front and middle.
                                 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Four

Day 21 (Nov 15, 2009)
So I have some new growth--but nothing major. I mean after three weeks shouldn't I have something anyway?! Hmmm, I am beginning to question the "magic" of castor oil...

Day 22 (Nov 16, 2009)

I didn't oil my scalp ....I know, I know.... 

Day 23 (Nov 17, 2009)
Itch, itch, itch, itch, itch,  itch, itch, itch  itch, itch, itch, itch, itch,  itch, itch, itch....I thought I had this beat, geeze! Had to oil my scalp. 

Day 24 (Nov 18, 2009)
I think I can see some growth! I don't know if I can attribute the JBCO to the growth though because seriously as long as I am breathing I am going to have something come out of my head right? I guess it's just a matter of how much growth I have and if there is any change in the texture. I can only wait to see... 

Day 25 (Nov 19, 2009) 
I had little to no itching today, so that is still holding up, but I have seen a few scabs here and there.  I passed on oiling my scalp tonight, I figured if I do it at least three times a week I'm good.  

Day 26 (Nov 20, 2009) 
Wow! it seems I really need to oil my scalp on a daily basis otherwise it begins to itch like crazy. Now it may be itching because it's time for a shampoo, but geeze it's driving me crazy! 

Day 27 (Nov 21, 2009)
Took out my twist...a lot of shedded hair, but nothing alarming. Minimal breakage and my hair still feels strong. My hair was soft as well and still felt moisturized. Now, as I already stated before I don't know what I can attribute to the JBCO because this wasn't put on my hair. I'm not convinced that this is as great as everyone says it is....
                                 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Three

Day 14 (Nov 8, 2009)

I complete a henna treatment yesterday and today I rinsed out my hair and it felt so strong, yet soft! I was pleasantly surprised. My hair also felt "heavy" and dense, which I have to say is due to the henna treatment I did yesterday. I did get a little overzealous with the Elixer and Break-Free, so it's a little oily now, but I'm okay with it; my hair will just be going back in twist. The itchiness seems to be completely gone. I am so excited , you have no idea. 

Day 15 (Nov 9, 2009)
Weirdest thing, my scalp is itching me like crazy again! I am still in the process of re-twisting my hair--I am slow when I do this--and I can go at a slower pace as it's my BIRTHDAY and I don't have any plans on going to work today. Anyway, because I don't like my hair to be too oily I usually oil my scalp after twisting to avoid getting it on my hair,  so right now there is nothing on my scalp and it is itching the hell out of me!
 
Day 16 (Nov 10, 2009)
Finally oiled my scalp, and the itchiness is gone..... 

Day 17 (Nov 11, 2009)

So there seems to be a real war going on with my scalp. It was itching something awful this morning-- oiled my scalp this evening, and the itchiness is gone.....Now this is new to me because yes I have always had an itcy scalp, but this feels more like irritation vs. just having a dry old scalp. I was reviewing some of my blog entries and it occurred to me that I did not oil my scalp before putting on the henna or deep conditioner, which may be the reason it feels like this. My scalp is just soooo damn sensitive.

Day 18 (Nov 12, 2009)

Oiled my scalp as scheduled....or perhaps it wasn't scheduled, but I have just decided I am going to listen to my scalp, and it is telling me--"who cares if it isn't Thursday, I'm itching"!

Day 19 (Nov 13, 2009)

 I didn't massage my scalp today, and it felt a little itchy. I am realizing that if I use castor oil straight with my EO blend then that is when I have this war going on on top of my head. I don't know why it didn't occur to me sooner. I mean I started off blending the castor oil with jojoba oil and had better results. I guess because I started using another brand of JBCO and had better results in term of smell and other oddities that I just forgot. I will need to go back to blending the oil and see if that gives me a different results in terms of relieving the itching next week.

Day 20 (Nov 14, 2009)
I am exhausted--but I can't allow that to prevent me from doing what I need to do with my hair. That is how it begins isn't it...you miss one day, then another. I mean it feels like I am already missing some steps with my castor oil experiment. I may need some inspirational pictures to help me along...

                                 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week Two

Day 7 (Nov 1, 2009)

So I was reviewing the challenge guidelines on HI and I'm not allowed to use any other growth aids. I guess it's a good thing I found that other bottle of JBCO, because the smell on the first one was killing me ! I'm not sure if using EO is allowed, but I feel I have to. So note to any of follower hoping to replicate my experiment--please see Week One for more details. 


Day 8 (Nov 2, 2009)
So my scalp was itching a little bit--a little too much for my liking, but nothing too serious. I applied some more Castor oil with my EO blend.

Day 9 (Nov 3, 2009) 
So I had some itching prior to going to bed, and a bit this morning, but nothing too serious. 

Day 10 (Nov 4, 2009)
Scabs and itching.... so I applied some more Castor oil with my EO blend in the evening to see if that would alleviate the issue. Okay, so I'm clearly not following my own guidelines, but technically I'm not breaking any rules either. Apparently as long as I am not using any other growth aids--(still not sure if EOs counts) and I use castor oil a minimum of two times a week, then I am within the guidelines set by Sunshyne.  As an aside, I think the scabbing is occurring because I am allergic to the castor oil. It looks like I may need to blend it with jojoba oil, but I am hearing great things about avocado oil ...

Day 11 (Nov 5, 2009)

Less itching today YAY!

Day 12 (Nov 6, 2009)
 Itching is becoming less noticeable. I notices a few scabs, but hair seems really moisturized! I don't even notice the smell anymore.

Day 13 (Nov 7, 2009)
No itching ! Happy day, happy day, ooooh happy day! It's wash day tomorrow, but I had to make some quick modifications (e.g. wash today instead) due to the fact that it is my birthday in a few days and I have plans with a few people tomorrow. There was some shedding, not too much though. I was very close to skipping my henna until next wash day, but I promised myself that I'd stick with my routine---trying to work for SL here. So here I am sitting with henna in my hair, will wash it out soon (2.5 hours later). I'll see how it works after I wash it out. 

                                 

Castor Oil Challenge: Week One

 Day 1 (Oct 26, 2009)

So I applied my first Castor oil "treatment" to my scalp for the week. Let me tell you that bottle really knocked me back when I first opened it. I wasn't expecting it to smell the way that it does. I am trying to put my finger on it, but if I had to identify what it smells like I would have to say it smells like roasted sesame. I'm not a fan at all. In the morning I could still smell it. It made me so self-conscious the whole day. I mean I am very big on hygiene, so needless to say I was concerned. The things we go through for our hair...

Day 2 (Oct 27, 2009)
The smell is not as intense. Perhaps my nose is just sensitive to this stuff.

Day 3 (Oct 28, 2009)
Okay, on the second try I attempted to reduce the smell and was somewhat successful at making it smell better by using equal parts castor oil and jojoba oil and adding a drop each of lavender, rosemary, tea tree oil and clary sage. Let's see, there is some itchiness after immediate use in some spots, which it's bearable, but I am noticing some scabbing on the scalp as well.

Day 4 (Oct 29, 2009)

The smell isn't as intense when I woke up this morning as it was the first morning; a definite plus. The itchiness is still there in spots and the scabs remain. I actually went by a store that Sunshyne over at Hairlista.com recommended to pick up a different brand of JBCO, so I will see if there is a difference in terms of smell and how my scalp feels. I will use the other CO I bought earlier for my pre-poos or something.

                                  
Day 5 (Oct 30, 2009)
So I tried the new JBCO and I must say it was much better. I only used it in my trouble spots though (e.g. temples and sides) because they are the slowest to grow. I must say I much prefer this brand. The smell was less intense and there was little to no itchiness. Getting a relaxer tomorrow, so I will  post some "before" pics. I know it is a week after I started the challenge, but really what difference will a week make? 

Day 6 (Oct 31, 2009) 
Got a relaxer. No burning, lost some length, but it was necessary to even out my ends. Despite losing some of my hair, the sides of my hair are still so short. It's always been that way,  but I am determined to get it growing. 

As far as the CO challenge is going, I did notice that my new growth was soft and my curls were more defined. Not sure if I can give credit to the CO for that one though. There was also little to no itchiness, which I will give CO props for--hey it may look like I have conquered my first mini goal . Well see. 

One week down, eleven more to go....

                                 

Castor Oil: Miracle Growth Serum?

Does Castor oil really encourage hair growth? A lot of people are asking this question especially among the ones who are facing hair loss and thinning problems. Apparently the answer is an astounding "YES"! Several women (including my sisters over at Hairlista.com--Holla!) relaxed and natural beauties alike, have been swearing by this miracle growth serum and they have the pictures to prove it. But you know me...I'm not convinced unless I see it (and feel it) with my own eyes. I mean maybe they all happen to be blessed with good genes. Eat a well balanced diet. Who knows , but I'm on the case.  So, yes I am going to jump on the castor oil challenge bandwagon to see if the stories are true. Truthfully, I have my own ulterior motives--listen I got a hair goal to reach!

Unfortunately, I missed the start date posted on Hairlista, but there's no reason why I can't create my own experiment. I'll post my results after my next relaxer*...

If anyone plans on jumping on the bandwagon with me tell me about it in addition to any issues or questions you may have along the way. I will try to get the information you require as soon as possible.

What I will be doing:

applying JBCO every other day following wash day

apply castor oil to my DC and henna treatment

Start date: October 26, 2009 (sorry I was a little late in posting this article)

End date: January 26, 2010

There are also several castor oil recipes that you can try as well.

                                 

*As of 2012 I have decided to wear my natural hair.

Castor Oil Recipes

There are currently a variety of castor oil hair treatment recipes that are available for specific hair concerns.

In conjunction with moisturizing castor oil treatments you can try, you can do a number of things to keep your hair healthy and create the best possible conditions for growth.

• Try to stay in good overall health by maintaining a balanced diet, exercising regularly, getting adequate sleep and avoiding smoking. 
• Sticking to a regular hair care routine can also be helpful. In fact, consider giving yourself a scalp massage now and again while washing or conditioning your hair. This can increase blood flow to your scalp and stimulate hair follicles.

Here are some recipes you can also try:

For dandruff and itchy scalp:

Mix equal parts castor oil with jojoba oil for a scalp treatment.

Rosemary EO* also works well with castor oil to balance the oils of the scalp.

For hair loss/thinning hair:

Mix equal parts of castor, jojoba and grape seed oil then combine thyme*, cedarwood,  rosemary* EO. These essential oils stimulate the hair follicles to encourage hair growth and prevent future hair loss.

• Apply the mixture to your scalp by gently massaging it and covering the entire scalp including the areas around your ears and above the back of your neck. After doing this procedure, completely wrap your hair with a towel and leave it covered for at least 15 to 20 minutes in order to allow the oil to fully penetrate your scalp and maximize it's effects.
• Afterward, you can rinse your treated hair with warm water and completely wash out the solutions. If you do not like the smell of your hair, you can use shampoo after an hour to allow the effect of the solution to be fully optimized. Repeat this procedure for at least twice per week for the next few months and you shall observe great improvement on your current condition. 
• If you have dry, relaxed and colored hair, add 3 tablespoon of Castor oil to your favorite conditioner.  It adds extra moisture to your hair and seals it in. 

 * do not use these essential oils if pregnant

                                 

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