The Benefit of Using Natural Products

There are hundred if not thousand of websites that provide recipes for natural and organic hair care, beauty products and remedies including shampoo, conditioner and hair color, that you can make using essential oils and ingredients found in your own kitchen and garden! If you have read and are not utilizing some of the ideas found in my article on Getting Creative with Homemade Recipes   then you will find that creating your own homemade products are easier than you think. Below I've created a list of ingredients to try when creating your own unique products

*Please use extreme caution when using any products for the first time, natural or not. If you are allergic to any of the listed ingredients then do not use it on your hair/scalp:

Almond Oil - This carrier oil is both nourishing and protective. It is high in linoleic acids, which account for its anti-inflammatory, acne reduction and moisture retention properties. Almond oil is a commonly used ingredient in beauty products as it treats and prevents dry, chapped and irritated skin (scalp). In addition to skin, Almond oil is great for hair. It helps condition, nourish, and soften hair while stimulating hair growth!

Aloe Vera - Aloe Vera improves the skin's ability to hydrate itself, aids in the removal of dead skin cells and encourages skin rejuvenation. Some have raved about its ability to encourage hair stimulation and hair growth! This product also has incredible moisturizing properties!

Avocado/Avocado Oil - This oil is rich in potassium, sulfur, vitamins A,D and E and fatty acids. It is very nourishing for dry hair and scalp as it replenishes oils lost through washing and coats the cuticles. It is especially valuable for those with eczema, dry scalp and other scalp ailments. It leaves the hair feeling smooth and soft.

Banana- The pulp is a great biodegradable moisturizer and lubricant, excellent for dry hair. It is an excellent humecant, locking in moisture and coating the hair shaft, leaving the hair smooth. The pulp is rich in potassium and vitamin A, B, C.

Calendula Oil - Moisturizes and conditions. Very good in soothing scalp and skin conditions like eczema. 

Carrot Seed Oil - This oil is a true powerhouse in the hair growth category! Carrot Seed oil is rich in Vitamins A, B, C, D and E. As you know Vitamin A, B and E are excellent for hair growth as it improve moisture for increased elasticity, conditions hair and stimulates growth.

Chamomille (Roman) Oil - This essential oil has anti-inflammatory properties and is very calming to the skin. It is both emollient and healing and thus is a wonderful addition to any skin care product!

Clary Sage - Astringent, stimulates  growth, kills bacteria. It is also believed to darken gray hair. 

Coconut Oil - Coconut oil is an amazing carrier oil! This is a great oil for general moisturizing and serves as a protective layer, helping to retain the moisture in your hair. Coconut oil does not clog pores (which can inhibit hair growth--and even kill hair follicles), making it great for the hair. It stimulates hair growth, softens the hair and conditions the scalp. It also can also help eliminate dandruff!

Evening Primrose Oil - Moisturizes and conditions the hair.

Glycerine - Natural emollient, pulls moisture into the hair.

Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) - Henna is believed to help provide stronger, smoother and shinier hair when used regularly. The dye is believed to penetrates the hair shaft, binding with the keratin in the hair while coating the hair, filling in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength and makes hair stronger. With its ability to smooth over rough cuticles, damage during combing and manipulation is reduced a great deal.

Honey - is a natural wonder full of properties beneficial to the hair. It is a natural humectants - meaning it attracts moisture and holds it in.

Jojoba Oil - The structure of Jojoba oil closely resembles that of your own skin oil (sebum). Jojoba is readily absorbed into the skin, is non-pore clogging and helps balance production of your natural sebum. Jojoba is moisturizing and helps prevent dry scalp. It contains linoleic acid and myristic acid, which account for its anti-inflammatory and moisture retention properties. It adds moisture and gives your hair extra protection, shine and body. It also cleanses and is revitalizing to hair and scalp!

Lavender Oil - This essential oil has multiple properties that make it important for overall general health and well-being. In hair care, Lavender is used as a scalp treatment for itchiness, dandruff, and even lice!

Lemon Oil - Besides having a refreshing and clean aroma, Lemon oil helps balance cell fluids and sebum and increases circulation. In hair care, Lemon oil helps control oily hair and gives golden highlights. It is also helpful in controlling lice.

Neem Oil - Neem oil has amazing healing properties and has long been used in Indian and Ayurvedic medicine. It moisturizes and protects skin. Its anti-inflammatory and pain relieving activity make Neem potentially useful against eczema on the scalp.

Olive Oil - Olive oil has been used for generations in natural soap products. It attracts external moisture to the skin yet allows the skin to "cleanse" and release sweat, sebum and shed dead skin. Olive oil is high in the antioxidants Vitamins A and E providing anti-aging properties and it has disinfectant properties, is moisturizing, soothing and healing. Simply a wonderful and gentle component in skin care!This oil stimulates cell regeneration, increases elasticity and decreases wrinkles. Pomegranate oil is a savior for mature, irritated, and dry, cracked skin!

Rosemary Oil - This is a well-known remedy for improving hair growth.It stimulates growth and has antiseptic properties. Rosemary also increases the circulation to the scalp therefore promoting hair growth and imparting shine to dark hair. Additionally, it helps control oily hair as well as dandruff.

Shea Nut Oil - This oil glides on the hair and scalp smoothly and helps heal and repair dry, damaged hair. It also creates a protective moisture barrier against the dry, harsh elements! (see shea butter for more information on properties).

Sweet Almond Oil - Contains Vitamin E and F, great properties for itchy scalp. It is mild and easily absorbed.

Tea Tree Oil - Tea Tree Oil has so many beneficial properties that it is a must for all medicine cabinets! This oil soothes irritated, inflamed skin and stimulates healing while minimizes scarring. It is a natural antiseptic, antifungal and anti-microbial and treats dandruff.

Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol) - As an anti-oxidant, Vitamin E prevents free radical damage from the sun and environment (yes your hair need UV protection too!). It improves moisture and helps soften the hair. Vitamin E also helps maintain the integrity (preventing rancidity) of product formulations.

Play around with different products. Remember what works for one person may not work for you. Have fun!

Product Review, Take Two!

Since I have updated my regimen I have been going through the various hair products I use on my hair so I can re-evaluate how my hair (now 90% natural) responds to them. As I have mentioned in that post, I have found that many of the products that I loved or found beneficial for my relaxed hair just aren't doing anything for my natural hair. More importantly, I have noticed that a few products that I couldn't make work for the life of me now work beautifully on my natural hair now, namely Shea Moisture and shea butter (well my adaptation of it). That, along with a few other products have made my hair feel absolutely wonderful, so I feel its only fair that I do another review for a few of the products I have given poor reviews on in the past. Now please keep in mind, I have very fine hair with low and high porosity. I was experiencing several hair/scalp issues during my relaxer days. So when I used the products I am mentioning below, my reviews were based on it providing me with what I needed to make my hair look and feel the way I wanted. Given my hair condition, I have different needs. So with that said, let the review begin!

Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo ($9.99 US, $15.00 CDN)

Promise: Hydrates, smooths and repairs strands leaving hair manageably soft. For dry, damage hair. Heal, grow and strengthen. Sea kelp trace minerals detoxify hair follicles of impurities and residue. Argan oil restores shine and rebuilds hair elasticity. Shea butter deeply moisturizes and repairs damage to hair and scalp.

Ingredients: Deionized Water , Decyl Glucoside (Sugar Beets) , African Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Aloe Vera Leaf Juice , Argan Oil , Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) , Rosemary Extract , Sea Kelp Extract , Vitamin E, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract (Honeysuckle) , Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract (Japanese Honeysuckle)

Results: So once again, I must start off by saying that I was very happy to finally find an all natural shampoo that lathers well and doesn't make my hair feel like straw *cough* Aubrey Organics--*cough*. When I used this product a few weeks ago I was really just trying to use it up because it had been sitting in my cabinet for months. I actually never used it again since my first review. When I was relaxed I didn't like this product because I felt like it was stripping my hair too much. Not horribly, but enough that I didn't want to use it anymore. My scalp also began to itch a lot shortly after washing my hair, which truthfully I have not experienced in a long while since using my Aveda Shampoo. The itchy scalp actually continued days after washing my hair despite oiling my scalp, so I was not impressed. 

Now? As I pointed out in my previous review, the shampoo is on the thicker side, providing a rich lather, so a little goes a long way. I used less than a dime size per section (I section my hair in fours) and only needed to wash my scalp once. This time around my hair felt clean, smooth, detangled, moisturized and VERY SOFT. Better still, my scalp did not itch at all. I was so happy ! I'm still not a fan of the smell, but overall I was very pleased with the way it cleaned my hair/scalp, and how it made my hair feel. Overall, I will give this product a . I would have given it more, but the smell bothers me. Given these changes I will be replacing my Aveda Dry Remedy. Review on that below.

Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturizing Shampoo ($24-$45 CDN)

 Promises: Drenches even the driest, most brittle hair with moisture, leaving it soft, supple, touchable. Instantly improve dry hair up to 63% when used as part of the Dry Remedy Moisturizing System. Deep moisturizing complex penetrates hair to deliver lasting, intense moisture, powered by buriti oil, pomegranate and palm-derived conditioners.

Ingredients: Water/Aqua/Eau, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Babassuamidopropyl Betaine, Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ethyl Macadamiate, Maurita Flexuosa (Buriti) Fruit Oil, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Sterols, Orbignya Specoisa Kernel Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract/Extrait DOrge A Deux Rangs, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter Tapioca Starch, Canola Oil/Huile De Colza, Palmamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate, Fragrance (Parfum), Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Eugenol, Linalool, Citral, Polyquaternium-10, Citric Acid. Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol.

Results: Initially when I tried this product I thought was doing a beautiful job on my hair.

Although DR is not chemical free it was working well on my hair (e.g. soft, moisturized hair). For that I initially gave Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo a .  However, since I have been transitioning it is actually making my hair feel a little stripped and dry--funny how that works. I am actually very surprised. As a result I now have to give it a .

Shea Butter ($10-21.99 CDN)

Promises: Soothes dry, itchy, irritated scalp or dandruff. Provides moisture for dry or damaged hair and is easily absorbed into the hair and scalp and does not clog the pores. It is helpful in locking in moisture without leaving the hair greasy and heavy, softening the hair. Said to be very beneficial for relaxed, coloured and heat-treated hair.

Ingredients: Organic/Unrefined Shea Butter

I first wrote about shea butter when I started my hair journey, and at that time I definitely did not feel it was for me. When I was relaxed I tried it on my scalp and my scalp itched like crazy. I tried it on my hair, it felt weighed down and too heavy. In my conditioners, again a weird feeling on my hair and scalp.  It just didn't work for my hair. Now? it works about the same. It is a bit better in the sense that my hair responds to it much better, but there seems to be a weird film on my hair. I tried it as a styler and as a sealant and in both situations I was a little disappointed. Consequently, I have to give it a , which is a lot better than my previous rating. However....I've been seeing a lot of natural women reviewing hair locking butters, which they use for their twist outs and braid out, so I thought hmmmm how can I use this product differently? I decided to do some research on these locking butters and when I looked at the ingredients I thought, why would someone pay for this when they could easily whip up a batch of their own. Most of these products are made of nothing more than butters, oils and beeswax (in most cases).  So that is what I did. I created my own hair butter using shea butter and can I say it works on my hair beautifully. I use it as a sealant when I twist my hair and it leaves my hair soft, shiny, gives me a soft hold and really defines my twist out. I know I can't rate my own "product", but if I could, I would give it a.

Nature's Gate Aloe Vera Moisturizing Conditioner ($5.99-$7.95 CDN)

Promise: Gently effective, this exotic combination of herbs packed with natural proteins help condition, moisturize, nourish and restore natural softness and shine, giving you silky soft and tangle-free hair.

Ingredients: Water, Cetyl Alcohol**, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Panthenol, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Viola Tricolor (Wild Pansy) Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Stearalkonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.
** plant derived source said to be safe

Results: When I first used this product I was pleasantly surprised. It still isn't the greatest conditioner for deep conditioning in my opinion, but it is a good "cheapie" conditioner for co-washing. When I was relaxed I swear my tangles just fell out with very little effort when I applied it directly to a tangled section for a few seconds. My comb just glided through my hair with such ease I did a little happy dance in the shower.  The smell is pleasant and fruity, yet mild, so overall, I was very pleased.  Now however, it does not do anything for my hair. It doesn't feel horrible or anything, but my hair just doesn't feel as soft or moisturized as it use to. Consequently, I feel I have to change my rating to a .

Giovanni Direct Leave In Conditioner ($6.99-$10.99 CDN)

Promise: Restores strength, luster and nourishment to abused hair. Moisturizes and builds body. This conditioner infuses each individual hair with proteins. Detangles for easy comb-out, easy styling.

Ingredients: Aqua (purified water) with *rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, *nettle (Uritica dioica) oil, *thyme (Thymus vulagris) oil, birch leaf (Butela alba) oil, *chamomile (Anthemis nobilus flower) oil, *clary (Salvia sclarea), *lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), *coltsfoot leaf (Tussilago farfara), *yarrow (Achillea millefolium) oil, *mallow (Malva sylvestris), *horsetail (Equistetum arvense) oil, *soybean protein (Glycine soja), cetyl alcohol (plant derived), tocopherol (vitamin E), trace minerals, citric acid (corn), sodium hydroxymethyglycinate, grapefruit seed (citrus derived).

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.

Results: Now that I am natural I have found that this product is now making my hair a little hard when I use it on its on. My hair feels detangled, but when it dries it seems to have a film on it making it look a little dull. On my second attempt I used it before applying some of my homemade hair butter and it was much much better. My hair felt soft and moisturized. So I will say, based on that, it's a keeper and I'll give it a  .

Oyin Homemade Hair Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion ($12-$19 US or $24.00-$36.00 CDN--oh yes you read that correctly!!!!)

Promise: This creamy, conditioning leave-in is light enough for every day. it's great on 'naked' hair immediately after a cleanse, or as a way to reinvigorate tired hair all the way through your hair care cycle. Looking for a product to wake up and moisturize your 'second day hair'? Looking for a way to make your hair pliable enough to re-style without a full rinse? Just want to refresh your coils and curls and give them a shot of moisture before sealing? This leave-in is your answer! As always, mineral/paraffin/petroleum free and full of nourishing castor, olive, and coconut oils instead. We also combine with aloe vera to quench the thirstiest hair... and since it's glycerin-free it's appropriate for even the driest of climates. Give your hair a drink today!

Ingredients: purified water, castor oil, olive oil, organic aloe vera gel, behentrimonium methosulfate (emulsifier), coconut oil, olive squalane, optiphen (preservative), cetyl alcohol, fragrance, and love!

Results: Overall, this product is still moisturizing, but nothing amazing. I find I have to add a lot of this product to make my hair feel soft (apply and reapply), and even then it wasn't anything special. When I sealed it with my homemade hair butter (something I am noticing I have to do now), my hair felt "alright". Not bad, but it could have been better, especially since I saw a huge difference when I used the Giovanni and got more hold, shine and definition. I will continue to use it because I want to have a good moisturizing product in my regimen and for that reason I have to now give it a  because the price is still hurting my pocket. I plan to play around with the ingredients so I can create my own handmade lotion (which is still a work in progress), but that is for another post.

So that's it. My hair has really changed a lot and apparently, so its needs. Hope that helps!

- = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

- = neither hit or miss; just okay

- = good product; really worth trying.

= amazing product!

Building a Basic Regimen

When I first started my hair journey I was really struggling to figure out this "healthy hair thing". I didn't know what to do, what products to use or even how often to use these products to transform my hair. Truth be told I am still trying to figure all this stuff out. Over time I have been able to gather the following information that I thought might be helpful as you start your journey. It actually isn't too hard, the trick is:

1) Finding the right products for your hair type (3c, 4a, 4b or LOIS)
2) Current hair condition (high, normal, low porosity)
3) Current hair needs (dry, breakage, etc)

Then if that doesn't seem tricky enough, you also must figure how best to use these products for your hair (e.g. add oils, weekly vs bi-weekly, etc--the manufacturer's directions should be a start, but in some cases still need tweaking). In any regimen you should always have the following products:

1 Gentle/Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used at least 1/week* depending on your schedule and hair needs. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. Your shampoo should leave your hair detangled and soft, not stripped. Here are some examples:

Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
Abba Pure Color Protect Shampoo
Abba Pure Basic Shampoo
Alba Botanica Coconut Milk Extra Enrich Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Gardenia Hydrating Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Mango Moisturizing Hair Wash
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo

Aubrey Organics Island Naturals Replenishing Shampoo

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Extra Moisturizing Olive and Grapeseed Shampoo
Avalon Organics Nourishing Lavender Shampoo
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Tea Tree Mint Treatment Shampoo
Aveda Scalp Benefits Balancing Shampoo

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo

Bee Mine Peppermint & Tea Tree Nourishing Shampoo
Burt's Bee Color Keeper Green Tea & Fennel seed Shampoo
Burt's Bee More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut Shampoo

Califia Care Shampoo 
Cream of Nature (red and green label)

Design Essentials Moisture Retention Shampoo
Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo

Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo
Giovanni 50:50 Balance Shampoo
Jane Carter Solution Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo
Jason Natural Plumeria & Sea Kelp Shampoo
Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo

KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Organix Smoothing Shea Butter Shampoo
Organix Hydrating Tea Tree Mint Shampoo
Oyin Grand Poo Bar
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Vatika Conditioning shampoo

*Some women choose to wash their hair once every 2 weeks or once a month vs once a week with some success. In these cases these women have chosen to co-wash in between shampoo sessions to keep the scalp clean. They then use shampoo to remove the build up (or "clarify") when needed. I have found that I must wash 1x week for my hair/scalp to feel its best.

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1x/month*. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean after using this product. Here are some examples:

Alba Botanica Daily Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter

Carol's Daughter Rosemary Mint Purifying Shampoo
Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
Hydratherma Naturals Herbal / Amino Clarifying Shampoo
Ion Clarifying Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Organic Root Stimulator Uplifting Shampoo
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Conditioner

*If you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. or use products with silicones you may want to use this more often but no more than 2x/month. I use a clarifying shampoo as needed.

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner*. You should follow up with one of these conditioners after* every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I have found deep conditioning my hair for 30 mins with heat (hooded dryer) has worked best for my hair. Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength and moisture based conditioner softens and replenishes dry hair. Protein conditioners should be used when your hair feels mushy, spongy and limp. In some cases a protein conditioner needs to be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair.

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair.

Here are some examples of moisture based conditioners:

KeraCare Humecto
Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner
AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Rosa Mosqueta Conditioner

Aussie Moist Conditioner
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Conditioner
Avalon Organics Lavender Nourishing Conditioner
Aveda Color Conserve Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturizing Conditioner
Bee Mine Bee-U-Ti-Ful Deep Conditioner
Biolage Hydratherapie Conditioning Balm
Burt's Bee Super Shiny Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Conditioner
Carol's Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie
Creme of Nature Moisture Extreme Conditioner
Dove Advance Care Sheer MoistureConditioner
Dove Moisture Rich Color Conditioner
Dove Damage Therapy Daily Moisture Treatment
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Elasta QP DPR-11 Deep Penetrating Remoisturizer

Elucence Moisture Balance Conditioner
Frederick Fekkai's Shea Butter Moisturizing Conditioner
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Ion Color Defense Hydrating Moisture Treatment
Jane Carter Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner
Joico Moisture Recovery Conditioner
Joico Moisture Intense Treatment Extra Conditioning Conditioner

Kenra Deep Penetrating Moisturizing Conditioner
KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner
KeraCare Moisturizing Conditioner for Color Treated Hair
Keratease Nutritive Masquintense Nourishing Treatment
Lustrasilk Shea Butter and Mango Cholesterol
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner

Mizani Hydrafuse Moisturizing Conditioner

Mizani Moisturefuse Moisturizing Conditioner

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Nexxus Humectress

Oyin Honey Hemp Conditioner
Pantene Relaxed & Natural Breakage Defence Mask
Paul Mitchell Super Charged Moisturizer
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner  (currently using)

Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment

Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment

Here are some examples of protein based conditioners:

light = can be used 1-2x/week**
medium = 1-2x/month
medium-heavy = 4 weeks
heavy = every 6+ weeks or as needed

Aubrey Organics GPB (light)
Aveda Damage Remedy Conditioner (light)
Africa's Best Organics Hair Mayonnaise (light)
Creme of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor (light)
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner (light)
Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum (light)
Homemade Avocado Mask (light)
Homemade Banana Mask (light)
Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus, Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment (light)
Joico K-Pak Reconstructor Conditioner (light)
Lekair Cholesterol Plus (light)
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (light)
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner (light)
Neutrogena Triple  Moisture Recovery Mask (light)
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner (light)
Organique Amla & Holy Basil Conditioner (light)
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise (light)

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor (medium)
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Extreme Protein Treatment (medium)
LeKair Cholesterol Plus Strengthening Conditioning Cream (medium)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (medium)
Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner (medium)
Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment (medium)
Queen Helene Cholesterol Hair Conditioning Cream (medium)

Organic Roots Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise Treatment for Damage Hair (medium-heavy)
Henna (medium-heavy)

Affirm 5 in1 Reconstructor (heavy)
Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment (heavy)
Dudley's DRC 28 Hair Treatment and Fortifier (heavy)
Elucence Extended Moisture Repair Treatment (heavy)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (heavy)
Nexxus Emergencee (heavy)

Nexxus Keraphix Restroative Strengthening Conditioner (heavy)
Mizani Kerafuse Intensive Strengthening Treatment (heavy)

*Some women choose to DC before washing their hair, as they feel the hair absorbs more of the conditioner when dry. They then follow up with a regular moisturizing shampoo or co-wash.

**Depending on your current hair structure/chemistry and current condition (e.g. damage, low porosity) even mild protein conditioners may be too much to use weekly. Always assess your hair condition regularly.

1 Leave-in conditioner*. This should be used after washing the hair and remain in the hair as it dries.

Here are some examples of moisture based leave-in conditioners:

Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In 
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based leave-in conditioners:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter

Giovanni Direct Leave In

Hydratherma Naturals Protein Balance Leave-In Conditioning Treatment
Infusium 23 Original

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In

Kenra Daily Defense Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (can double as conditioner and leave-in)

Profectiv Break Free Leave In

Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment

Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment

Salerm 21

Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk 

Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist

*Some women use more than one leave in conditioner (e.g. protein based and moisture) with some success.

1 Water Based Daily Moisturizers Use daily to hydrate the hair. It can be used 1-2x/day depending on your hair needs. Due to the texture and structure of my hair I used this 1x/day other day depending on the hair style I am wearing and the moisturizer/styler I used.

Here are some examples of moisture based moisturizers:

Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion  (currently using)
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix  (currently using)

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based moisturizers:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter
Infusium 23 Original

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In

Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion

Profectiv Break Free Leave In

Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment

Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment

Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk   (currently using)

Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist   (currently using)

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Apply by adding a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up.Oils can also be added to conditioners and used as a pre-poo.

Here are some examples:

Avocado Oil  (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using as in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil (currently using on scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on scalp and Castor in leave in)
Macadamia Nut Oil 

Safflower Oil

Basic Regimen to Get You Started!

You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
1 Leave-in Conditioner
1 Daily Moisturizer
1 Natural Oil

Additional items:
Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet

• Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing shampoo 1-2x/week (Preferably sulfate free)
• Use a moisturizing deep conditioner with heat after every shampoo
• Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
• Use a water-based moisturizer 1-2x/day then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
• Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
• Relax no sooner than 8 weeks
• Do a protein treatment when needed (whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
• Trim when needed
• Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
• Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.

That's it!! Remember to take a step back and re-evaluate your hair and your methods. LISTEN to your hair. It will tell you when something is not working well for you (i.e. dryness, breakage etc.) Give your hair time to get adjusted. It's all about trial and error until you realize what your hair likes, then you'll see improvement.

Happy Hair Growing!!

Source (Thanks SunShyne!)
*The Science of Black Hair 

© copyright 2009-2015; All rights reserved ManeDiva

Product Overload

Since October there have been quite a few products I have tried and used. I've held off from reviewing most of them because as you know I have really been focused on controlling the breakage I was experiencing in an effort to retain length and therefore I have been blogging more about that. As well, there are so many reviews out there about similar products I figured there was no real rush right? Well, as I finish off most of the oils, poos and conditioners I am using and scaling down to only a few selected more natural products I have become more aware of what has and hasn't worked for my hair and wanted to share the information (please note I am picky and hard to please. I know how I want my hair to feel/look and if a product doesn't do it for me it will get a poor review--you may not feel the same). A few I have already written about (e.g. Aveda Dry Remedy, Komaza Shea Butter Lotion and Aphogee Balancing Moisturizer), so this list will cover everything else. Going forward I plan to discuss and review the products I am using more consistently as I am using them.

The Hair Repair Balancing Act

If you've been keeping up with my progress thus far you will know that I have really been struggling to find the right moisture-protein balance for my hair to no avail. Up to this point I have been killing my hair with protein overload, largely because I was not very knowledgeable about protein based products. I mean I had some knowledge of reconstructors and protein deep conditioners, but I really was lost when it came to most basic daily products (e.g. leave ins, "moisturizers"). As a result, I have been piling on the protein turning my hair into a dry, crinkly, mess!

So I have done my research and I think I may be able to get a handle on this thing. I have to send a shout out to Sunshyne for posting such an extensive list of hair products. The time and effort she put into generating that list has helped me out immensely. Along with a few websites I have come across I have been able to create another hair regimen to see where that takes me...fingers crossed.

Now if I need to make this even more difficult, I am really trying to reach an all natural hair product regimen...but I will take this one step at a time.

For your own reference I have included a few examples of hair products you can try to create your own regimen (this is by no means extensive, and really only include the products I am aware of). Remember, keep it simple and make sure you have the basics "ingredients" to get you started: moisturizing shampoo, clarifying shampoo, 2* deep conditioners** (moisture and protein), leave in conditioner, daily moisturizer (depending on the leave in you choose it may be able to double up and your daily moisturizer instead of buying a separate one), natural oil for sealing. With this in place you should be on your way!

Moisturizing Shampoo:

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo 

Creme of Nature Shampoo 

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Jason Sea Kelp Shampoo
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Hair One Cleansing Conditioner
Wen Cleansing Conditioner
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)

Clarifying Shampoo :
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (currently using)

Moisturizing Conditioners: 

Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner

AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Conditioner 

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Conditioner 

Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner

Elasta QP DPR-11

Elucence Moisture Balance conditioner

KeraCare Humecto
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse

Mizani Hydrafuse
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment
Joico Moisture Recovery
Nexxus Humectress
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Lustrasilks Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus 

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (currently using)

Protein Conditioners:

(can be used 1x/week or bi-weekly):
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner

Creme Of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor

Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

Lekair Cholesterol Plus
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner

Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor 

Creme of Nature Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics GPB 

Egg mixed with light conditioner

(can be used 1-2x/month):

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor

Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner

Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner

Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment
Natural Henna (currently using)

(should not be used any sooner than every 6 weeks):

Vitale Reconstructor

Affirm 5in1 Reconstructor

Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment 

Nexxus Emergencee

Nexxus Keraphix
Komaza Protein Hair Strengthener
Mizani Kerafuse 

Leave in Conditioner:
Moisture based:
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Nexxus Humectress
SCurl No Drip Activator
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 

  

Protein based:
Nexxus Headress Weightless Leave-In Conditioner
Infusium 23 Original

Profectiv Breakfree Moisturizer 

Profectiv Megagrowth Moisturizer 

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructerizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in 

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme

Redken Anti-Snap Leave-in

Chi Keratin Mist

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Daily Moisturizers:

(Use 1-2x/day to hydrate the hair): 

Moisture based:

S-Curl No Drip Activator

Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Creme
Hollywood beauty Carrot Oil

ORS Olive Oil

ORS Carrot Oil 

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion  
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix (currently using)

Protein based:

Cantu Shea butter,

Elasta QP Mango Butter

Profective Healthy Ends 

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk 
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Natural Oil:

Avocado Oil (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil  (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil  (currently using on my scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on my scalp and Castor Oil in my DC) 
Macadamia Nut Oil 

Safflower Oil

Now just from reviewing this list and what I am and was currently using I can clearly see where I went wrong. For starters, I never clarify, I don't moisturize on a daily basis and as I stated above, I am using way too much protein. I suggest that if you are also struggling to meet your hair goals you also review the list, check off what you are doing or aren't doing and shape it up. Hope that helps you in your effort to reach your hair goals.

Happy hair growth!

                                 

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair.