Progress...

Well it's been a while since I "chopped" my hair and began to work through the damage ends that I had. To clarify, I did not cut my hair, only trimmed a few inches every few weeks as it continued to grow out. I was already 100% natural at this point, but had scaggly, broken off ends. I still do in some sections, but this is the state of my hair so far.

For the length check I simply twisted, then retwisted my hair and then used a hair straightener on a low setting to stretch it out a bit in the back, rather than press it out completely. I did not want to straighten my entire head because the goal was merely to check my length, as I will putting my hair in a protective style for the next two weeks (twist). It's getting cold and I am getting lazy and I do not want that to negatively impact my progress. In the process of stretching my hair two things became very apparent. First, the left side of my head is much thicker ( and a bit longer) than the right side. Not just on the back, but in the side and front as well. I am really puzzled by this discovery. I can understand the sides of my head being different length and thickness because I sleep on my right side. This tends to stunt hair growth a little bit. However, the back and the front *scratch head*? I don't get that at all. I will try rubbing some JBCO on that side to see what happens. I actually planned to do a 6 month JBCO challenge between Oct 12-Mar 28 (details to follow), so I need to figure out how to adjust that for this issue if I hope to see a difference. My hope is that it will help thicken up my hair some since I do not think it really works as a growth aid.

The second issue I notice with my hair is the fact that I have a "gap" around my nape. If you look closely, you can see it looks thin right in the middle. That is because the nape is spotty. I am not sure how to fix that, but I will do some research and see what I can do. Beyond that, I am pleased with my progress. I completed a hot oil treatment this weekend and my hair felt really good after I did my final rinse (e.g. shampoo, DC, etc). Changing my regimen has done wonders for my hair. It feels softer, looks shinier and I am experience less breakage and dryness. 

                                 

Hits & Misses 2014

As a new year gets underway I am thinking about my future hair goals. I have had some success with products in the last year, but I need to keep it going if I hope to reach BSL by January 2016. Here are a few products (and techniques) that created magic as well as a few disasters for my hair over the last year (note: some of these products have moved around as the ingredients seem to have changed slightly and my hair appears to be changing)

Hits

Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (modified)
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (modified)
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner (modified)
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Homemade Banana/Coconut Milk Mask

Weekly Herbal Hot Oil Hair Treatment
Herbal Scalp Oil Treatment

Detangling prior to shampooing

Adding oils and hydrolyzed protein to my conditioners 
Finger combing 

Sleeping with a satin scarf and satin pillowcase

Washing hair in twisted sections

Deep conditioning based on porosity levels
Protective styling for 99% of the time (to reach goals)

Misses

Applying and aloe vera juice as final rinse

Neither Hit nor Miss/Just There:

Argan Oil (+in conditioners - as a sealer)
Qhemet Biologics Amla and Olive Heavy Cream (modified)

What I learned about my hair and products in general over the last year:

• Treating hair based on porosity level makes a huge difference 

Well that's me and my journey thus far. Happy New Year to all my subbies...and may you achieve all your many hair goals in 2015!!!!!!

                                 

Mini Hair Goals Revisited

I was reviewing a few of my older post while I was cleaning up some of the bugs on the blog and I came across a post that I posted at the beginning of my journey (when I was relaxed) and that it helped me a lot when I was trying to get over that hump from jaw length to shoulder length. I am currently stuck at SL at the moment and I really want to move on already! 

Anyway, the process requires me to sit down and really organize my thoughts . What am I trying to achieve? What are some of the issues I have with my hair right now? Basically, what I was trying to do was come up with some mini goals, so that in time I would be able to achieve my overall goal of beautiful healthy hair. 

This is what I came up with:

1. Increase moisture 
2. Retain length
3. Reduce single strain knots and breakage
4. Improve and maintain a healthy scalp condition

When broken down in this way, it really isn't that hard. So how do I achieve success with each goal? What products or tools will I use?

Increase Moisture

1. Drink more H20  (minimum 2 litres/day) 
2. Use a moisture balance shampoo, conditioner and deep conditioner at a pH of 5.0
3. Spritz hair with a specialize mix for porosity level every other day 
4. Apply a protein conditioner as needed (biweekly for high porosity; once a month for low porosity) to fill in gaps in hair shaft
5. Apply herbal oil treatment once a month
6. Use a moisturizer with a pH of 4.0 and seal with shea butter on high porosity areas 
7. Use a hooded dryer to assist in deep conditioning

Retain Length

1. Finger detangling. My hair is just too tightly coiled to comb through, even with a wide tooth comb.
2. Minimize manipulation by utilizing protective styles 100 of the time for longer periods of time (e.g. 2 weeks) for a period of 6 months.
3. Tie hair with scarf and sleep on silk pillowcase

Reduce Single Strain Knots and Breakage

1. Minimize manipulation by utilizing protective styles 100% of the time for longer periods of time (e.g. 2 weeks) over a period of 6 months.
2. Finger detangling.
3. Allow for enough time to do hair routine to avoid rushing

Improve and Maintain a Healthy Scalp Condition

1. Apply herbal growth every other day
2. Daily 1 min scalp massages

I'll keep you posted on my hair progress.

Happy Hair Growth!

Hair Update

Since I've made a few changes to my hair regimen based on my hair's porosity level, I have noticed a difference in my hair. It retains moisture a lot better, it feels softer, there is less breakage. 

Some of the things I have done to adjust my products to help my hair along:

Shampoo (5.5 pH):
1.5 tbsp conditioning shampoo 
1.5 tbsp water
1/4 tsp lemon juice
3 drops tea tree oil and 3 drops of lavender (for alleviate scalp ailments) 

Conditioner (5.0 pH):
per 2 tbsp conditioner
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/4 tsp of EVCO, EVOO, Argan and Avocado oil
(3/8-3/4 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein if doing a protein conditioner)

Leave in (4.5 pH):
1 tbsp Knot Today
1/2 tsp aloe vera juice
1/2 tsp Jojoba oil
1/2 tsp castor oil

Styler (4.5-4.0 pH):
1 tbsp Camilla Rose Jai Almond Twisting Butter 
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/8 tsp lemon juice (to lower to 4.0 for high porosity areas)

Spritz as needed (4.0 pH):
high porosity
1/3 cup water
3 tbsp aloe vera juice
2 tbsp veg glycerine

low porosity
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp water
1 tbsp veg glycerine 

These adjustments seem to be working for my hair so far. I notice my hair responds by clumping and curling really well. Little to no frizz and moisture that last for days and it feels very soft. I am also trying to stick with a set a product for a period of time to really give this new regimen a chance. So far so good because I notice if I deviate from this process even slightly I will get different results. I've also been able to learn which products do not work well. 

Low/High Porosity Woes

A few days ago I posted information on hair porosity and how important it is to hair care and length retention. So what does this mean for your hair, especially if you are like me and have "spotty" or different porosity levels?

Well, there is some confusion regarding the way in which hair responds to moisture, manual manipulation and heat. To begin, many believe the cuticles can be easily opened and closed by simply applying particular products or heat to the hair, however it does take a lot more effort than that. While it is true, certain harsh chemicals have the ability to lift the cuticles, the the key word here is "harsh". You must remember, when this occurs your cuticles are being forcibly raised because the hair is out of balance. This is not something you would want to do to your hair on a consistent basis (e.g. weekly) . More importantly, forcing your cuticles to open on a consistent basis is not something you can do without severely damaging the hair over time. In other words, you can not "fix" your hair's porosity.

So what can you do? Although you can not "fix" the current state of your hair, you can minimize the damage that can happen because the cuticles are raised (high) or resistant (low) to absorbing moisture. Keep in mind, these practices are temporary and must be done on a regular basis and they only serve to help you retain the length you have as you grow in hair that is healthier and balanced (e.g. normal/medium porosity). This is why it is good to evaluate your hair every six months or and make adjustments as you continue on your hair journey. 

Tips for Low Porosity

1. Beware of and minimize your use of products that have a low pH or highly acidic (e.g. aloe vera juice, citric acid) because these substances work to keep the cuticles closed.
2. Use light to medium water based moisturizers and minimize products that are loaded with heavy oils or butters as these will simply sit on top of the hair. 
3. Use lighter oils (e.g. jojoba, argan or grape seed) to seal in the moisture you are using on the hair.
4. Use steam to help add moisture to the hair. 
5. Apply products to damp or slightly dry hair instead of wet hair.
6. Focus more on increasing moisture levels, while minimizing protein as this type of hair often retains protein quite well.
7. Stick to monthly protein treatments to avoid protein overload.

Tips for High Porosity

1. Use a moisturizing shampoo
2. Use products with a low pH or highly acidic (e.g. aloe vera juice, citric acid) because these substances work to keep the tighten the opened cuticles (it will not "close" them).
3. Use thicker butters and products with heavier oils as it will seal the cuticles and trap in the moisture you receive from the product.  
4. Use of protein (hydrolyzed wheat or silk) conditioners regularly (weekly to biweekly) to help fill in gaps and holes that are present in the hair shaft.

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What the pH?!

So now that I understand a little bit more about porosity and how important it is to hair growth, I have decided to make a few changes. Before I explain what those changes will be I wanted to highlight some information on pH balance, as porosity and pH balance go hand in hand. 

Without getting too technical, it is very important to understand how pH aids in maintaining optimal hair balance as this affects hair growth (length retention), its appearance (shine vs dull, frizz vs sleek, curl definition) and how your hair responds to products/ingredients (styling results). 

Healthy hair is naturally more acidic, falling between a pH of 4.0-5.5. Several environmental factors can negatively affect the pH balance of our hair, such as  chemicals, harsh shampoos, styling products and heat. When the hair is pH balanced, the cuticles remain slightly closed allowing it to remain strong and healthy and shiny. When the pH balance of the hair is too high the cuticles are raise and the cortex of the hair shaft is exposed, which can lead to tangles, frizz, knots making the hair more susceptible to damage and breakage. Similarly, when the scalp's pH is too high, you will experience various scalp disorders (e.g. dry, itchy, dandruff).

One way to create and maintain a healthy pH balance is by using products that is close to the appropriate pH range to help maintain (or restore) the hair's ideal pH levels when it is too high. The cuticles on curly hair tends to remain open as the curl pattern make it difficult for the cuticles to lie flat. Therefore, the products we use is very crucial. Learning this information has been a tremendous help to me as I try to get my hair back on track because similar to porosity, it has helped me understand why my hair is reacting to certain products in a negative way. 

Armed with my pH testing strips, I tested all of the products I currently use. I recommend that you do this as well since very few companies post the pH level of their products.Testing strips will come in handy for another reason as well, which I will explain below. I also included the ideal range for these products. 

Shampoo (6.0-5.0):

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo 7.0

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Shine Shampoo 7.0

Conditioner (5.0-4.0):

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner 6.5

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner 5.5

Cantu Shea Butter Mask 5.0

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner 4.0

Leave In Conditioner (4.5-4.0):

Knot Today Detangler 7.0

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Hold & Shine Moisture Mist pH 6.5

Giovanni Direct Leave-in pH 6.0

Moisturizer (4.5-4.0):

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk pH 7.0

Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream 7.0

Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream 6.5

Shea Moisture Yucca & Baobab Volumizing Hair Milk 6.5

Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion pH 5.0

Stylers (4.5-4.0):

Komaza Care Califia Styling Pudding 7.0

Komaza Care Coconut Hair Pudding 7.0
Camilla Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter 7.0

Entwine Coutour Jellé Styler 6.5

Lily of the Desert Aloe Vera Gelly 6.0

Eco Styler Gel (Olive Oil) 6.0

KCCC 4.5

As you can see a lot of the products I use do not fall within the appropriate pH range. Pair this information with the issues associated to high and low  porosity I can understand why I have been struggling with frizzy, brittle, dry hair for so long.  

So what does this mean for my hair? Well, I don't think it would be practical to run out and buy a slew of new products, but I do need to find a solution to address the issues I am having with my hair if I hope to retain my lengths. One solution would be to "create" pH balanced products that will work best on my hair. This best way to accomplish this is to simply add ingredients that test higher in acidity to my hair products in an effort to lower its alkalinity. This would include ingredients like:

Aloe Vera Juice 4.0

Vinegar 2.5

Lemon Juice 2.0

ACV 3.5

This is where those additional testing strips I discussed above will be helpful. Once you've added one of these ingredients to your products, retest it to make sure it falls within the appropriate range. For example, I add some distilled water and 1/4 tsp of lemon juice to approximately 4 oz of shampoo lowering it from a 7.0 pH to 5.5 pH. I've noticed a difference in how my hair feels after shampooing when I've done this over a period of time. 

If you are going to add anything to your products to lower its pH level, it is highly recommended that you separate a small amount of the product you would like to use and gradually add one of the ingredients listed above to ensure that you do not "spoil" the larger batch. 

I hope this helps you out as much as it has helped me.

HHG!

Hair Porosity...What's the Big Deal?

Porosity seems to be on (almost) everybody's lips. Why? How does porosity effect the quality of our hair? Well, porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retain moisture. It is determined by the cuticle layers, which allows moisture to pass in and out of the hair. If the cuticles are tightly closed (also known as low porosity) it will be difficult to get moisture into the hair. If the cuticles are raised (also known as high porosity) then it will be easy to get moisture into the hair, however you will have difficulty retaining that moisture.In both situations, the lack of moisture will result is dry hair, which has an increase chance of breakage. Normal porosity is the optimum hair state we want to achieve (or maintain) because it allows moisture to enter the hair shaft, while preventing too much moisture from escaping. The result, is healthy, shiny hair that thrives and behave in a predictable way (e.g. maintains hair style, easy to manage and manipulate). 

Porosity levels may be determined by genetic factors, but it can, and is often affected by external factors such like the environment, heat treatment, chemical use and how you handle your hair. Understanding and identifying your hair's porosity is important because it will ensure you are using the right products to address your current hair condition and meet your hair goals. 

I emphasize "current" because hair porosity can change over time. A person can also have different porosity levels throughout their hair. I for one have both low and high porosity hair. After doing some research, this was how I figured it out:

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity 

Does it Float?
One way to determine your hair's porosity is the water method. The water method or the "float test" examines how the hair behaves in room temperature water. Take a few strains of hair from different sections of your head (e.g. back, left side, right side, crown and front). Place it on top of a glass of water and wait 1-2 minutes to see how it responds. Do not push or manipulate the hair while it sits on the water. If it floats, your hair has low porosity. If it sinks to the bottom of the glass then your hair is highly porous. 

There is some debate as to whether or not one can truly test hair porosity this way because of the hair's structure. For this reason, there are a few other ways you can use to help figure how how porous your hair is. 

How Fast Does It Dry?
After washing and conditioning your hair as you normally would, allow your hair to air dry without blotting it dry or adding any additional products. Do not dry off your body for this test. If you hair dries faster than your body does, your hair is highly porous. 

Is It Smooth?
Another way to test your hair is to take a few strains of hair and gently slide your hair up the shaft from the tip to the root. If you feel any resistance or it feels rough, your cuticles are not flat and therefore porous. While this test alone is not definitive, pair it with the other two test you did to help determine your hair's porosity.

It's best to use all three test to help determine where your hair falls. So, 

Low Porosity: hair floats, dries after your body, stains feels smooth to the touch.

Normal Porosity: only one of the three tests indicated you had high porosity.

High Porosity:  two or all three of the tests indicated you have high porosity


The above test is not an exact science. These test are only used to help gear you in the right directions to help you care for your hair more effectively. Unless you carry out very expensive lab base test, you will not be able to truly determine the porosity of their hair in a definitive way. However, what is clear is the fact that hair responds in very unique ways based on its porosity level. 

You have no idea how helpful this has been because I can now make better decisions when I treat and style my hair. Things made a lot more sense once I figured out what was going on with my hair and why certain DC treatments worked for a while then completely ruined my hair. For example, I have both low and high porosity level. Low porosity does not respond well to too much protein, while high porosity hair requires it to minimize breakage due to gaps and holes in the hair shaft. In the past I thought I was protein sensitive because sections of my hair would break easily and I was looking at my hair as a whole. As a result, I would only do mild protein treatments once a month. The problem is, the parts of my hair (side, front and crown) would suffer because it needed protein much more than that. I couldn't figure it out and got so frustrated because I wouldn't see any real progress in these areas (past posts will confirm this). The back of my hair, which loved the lack of protein and needed increase moisture thrived and still thrives.

With this new knowledge I have made adjustments to my regimen and I've noticed a difference in the feel and look of my hair. I just wish I knew this information before. 

So what does this mean for my hair? Stay tuned....

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Shea Moisture....Where Have You Been All My Life?

From the title of the post, I am sure you've already guessed that this will be another review of Shea Moisture products. Two of these products are new to the line up and a part of the Moisture Retention line, which I've wanted to try for a while now because I have heard good things about them. In all honesty I did not need a new conditioner because I was fairly happy with my current conditioners. I've noticed however, that a few of my favs have new ingredients, which puzzles me. I mean as the old saying goes, if it ain't broke, why fix it? I am not quite sure if that is why my hair has not been responding to some of my staples the same way. Hair does change over time, so that may also be contributing to the issue I have noticed. Anyway, I thought I would give the following items a try in an effort to meet my hair needs. 

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner ($9.99 US, $12.99-$20 CDN)

Promise: Our all‐natural, daily conditioner moisturizes and repairs dry, lifeless, over‐processed and damaged hair.

Ingredients: Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Argan Oil, Coconut Oil*, Behentrimonium Chloride, Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B‐5), Avocado Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil. *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Let me just say, that this conditioner right here, is the business! When I put it on my hair my knots just melted away (and I get a lot of knots). My fingers were able to glide threw it and I loved that. I will need to stock up the next time I am in the States. I used the conditioner for 5 weeks in a few different ways (e.g. pre-poo, detangler, conditioner post-poo) and it worked out lovely any way I used it. My hair was detangled, moisturized and VERY SOFT. Overall, I will give this product a . It's a keeper.

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixer ($9.99 US, $13.99 CDN)

Promise: This intensely moisturizing and penetrating all-natural oil treatment repairs and strengthens hair. Strengthens strands from the roots, protects against damage and leaves hair silky and vibrant. Trace minerals detoxify hair follicles of impurities and residue. Argan oil restores shine and rebuilds hair elasticity. Shea butter deeply moisturizes and repairs damage to hair and scalp.

Ingredients: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Oil*, Argan Oil, Vegetable Squalene, Carrot Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Sebacic Acid, Sea Kelp Extract, Essential Oil Blend, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E). *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Well, I'm not sure what to say about his product. Did it leave a shine on my hair? Yes. Moisturizing? No, it was actually a little drying and the oil seem to just sit on top of my hair, which I didn't like. I used it on top of my twist while damp and on dry hair.  It didn't work either way. For these reasons I have to give it a .I haven't tried it more than a few times, so my assessment could change, but I really doubt it.

- = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

- = neither hit or miss; just okay

- = good product; really worth trying.

= amazing product!

Hits and Misses for 2013

As a new year gets underway I am thinking about my future hair goals since my second big chop *sigh*. I have had some success with products in the last year, but I need to keep it going if I hope to reach BSL by January 2016. Here are a few products (and techniques) that created magic as well as a few disasters for my hair over the last year (note: some of these products have moved around as the ingredients seem to have changed slightly and my hair appears to be changing)

Hits

Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Giovanni Direct Leave in  

Avocado Oil

Jamaican Black Castor Oil

Olive Oil

Jojoba Oil

Virgin Coconut Oil

EOs

ACV Herbal Rinse

Detangling prior to shampooing

Adding oils to my conditioners 
Finger combing 

Sleeping with a satin scarf and satin pillowcase

Overnight deep conditioning treatments
Washing hair in twisted sections

Mild protein treatments once every 3 weeks

Avocado Butter blend as a sealant

Misses

Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine Shampoo

Neither Hit nor Miss/Just There:

Homemade Avocado Protein Mask  (after a small adjustment it was much better)
Oyin Lightweight Lotion

What I learned about my hair and products in general over the last year:

• Finger combing allows me to retain a lot more hair because my hair is tightly coiled and combs causes it to snap, even when wet. 

Well that's me and my journey thus far. Happy New Year to all my subbies...and may you achieve all your many hair goals in 2014!!!!!!