Sunday, October 30, 2011

Science of Black Hair: A Review

Like many black women I have heard and finally had the opportunity to read (in its entirety--lol) the Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care by Audrey Sivasothy. Yes I read it all, even the so called "boring" parts, which in my opinion is a must read if you truly want to get the true benefit of this book. 

 I want to start off by saying it is a very good read. I enjoyed the book because it goes beyond the basic information that many of us know about hair care (right products choice, develop a regimen, etc), and provides the reader with a deeper understanding about the structure of black hair and the reason it behaves the way that it does. Further, the author provides the readers with user friendly guides to help you begin a solid hair journey and maintain your hair, hopefully with a lot of success. I personally found the information in this book very informative. If for no other reason than the simple the fact that it helped me fully understand why I experience the various challenges I have with my hair. The ongoing issues I've had with slow growth and constant breakage at the side and crown of my hair, my protein-moisture imbalance, etc. all make a lot more sense to me now. Better yet, I have some sense of direction on how to resolve it as oppose to blindly stumbling onto it by trial and error. One thing I have learned is that you can not fix something if you don't know exactly why it is broken. Finally resolving my itchy scalp after so many years of using the wrong products has taught me that. The nice thing, is I no longer need to stumble blindly on my journey. Now I don't want to give the impression this book provides you with all the answers to achieving healthier hair. You will still have to do some work, paying attention and responding to your hair's needs. But I will say that you will be able to approach your hair journey with more focus and will have a better understanding of why things may go awry. It may also reduce some of the frustration and self-doubt you may feel as you encounter setbacks, as long as you fully commit to this process.

Now does this book cater to naturals or relaxed/texlaxed ladies? While some may not agree with me, I would say it is geared towards relaxed ladies a little more so than naturals. While the major principle used in the book applies to both hair types, there just seems to be a bit more emphasis on managing the issues related to relaxed hair (e.g. regimen guide, examples used). Now this doesn't bother me in the least because I was still toying with the idea of going natural while I was reading this book (I am still undecided as we speak), but some natural ladies may have a problem with it. However, when you read the first few chapters you will understand that regardless of how you decide to wear your hair there will be inherit challenges by the very fact that our hair grows out of your head a particular way: curly. With these curls there ARE weak points. I was under the false impression that these curls, once straightened by a relaxer, minimized those weak spots because there is nothing to loop around the comb--boy was I wrong. But I don't want to give away too much.

The final thing I will say is that the author provides a very extensive list of products that are beneficial for the hair, which she complied together based on "user testing", "widespread appeal"  and "ingredients that have met a certain standard" for promoting better hair moisture and protein integrity of black hair fibers (Sivasothy, 2011 p. 116). I point this out because many women are very interested in knowing what products to use, and many other books on black hair care often fall short here. I also wanted to raise this point because I wanted to emphasize the point that you should use caution when using this list as a guide for building your own regimen. Don't just pick up anything just because it is listed in this book. For one reason, not all hair responds the same, so what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. Secondly, I noticed that there were a few products that were included in the book that research has shown me are not actually the best products for  black hair due the high pH levels despite being "all natural" (e.g. Dr. Bronners Liquid Soap). Moral here: always be critical about what you read, and do further research where ever possible.

Overall, great book.I gave it a Smiley .  It is well worth your time if you are ready to take the plunge into the healthier hair club!


Smiley - Smiley = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

Smiley - Smiley = neither hit or miss; just okay

Smiley - Smiley = good product; really worth trying.

Smiley = amazing product!

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

New Regimen

After completing a few tests to help determine my hair's porosity I am now armed with the knowledge of how to manage my hair. I have made a lot of changes over the last six weeks or so and have already noticed a change in how my hair feels and responds to products. You'll also notice my products are now 100% natural, which you all know has been a goal of mine for a long time!


Basic regimen (low porosity):
  • Scalp/ herbal hot oil treatment overnight 1x/week
  • Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo (pH 6.0) 1x/week
  • Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 1x/month
  • DC Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 2x/month
  • Real Protein Treatment (pH 5.0) 1x/month 
  • Henna as needed (approx 1x/6 weeks)
Basic regimen (high porosity):
  • Scalp/ herbal hot oil treatment overnight 1x/week
  • Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo (pH 6.0) 1x/week
  • DC Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 2x/month
  • Real Protein Treatment (pH 5.0) 2x/month 
  • Henna as needed (approx 1x/6 weeks)
Additional things:
Oil scalp every other day with JBCO/Jojoba Herbal Mix
Massage scalp daily
Moisturizing spritz as needed
Gently warm up conditioner before applying to hair
Multivitamin, Vitamin B Complex, Iron, Vitamin E and Omega 3-6-9 daily (I take these daily because I am a vegetarian and lack some nutrients)

Products:
  • Moisturizing Shampoo: SM Moisture Retention Shampoo (modified), SM Coconut and Hibiscus Curl & Shine Shampoo (modified)
  • Moisturizing Conditioner: AO Camellia Ultra-Smoothing and Argan oil
  • Moisturizing DC: Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (modified)  
  •  Protein DC: Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (modified)  
  • Leave ins: Specialized Recipe  
  • Moisturizer: Camilla Rose Almond Jai Twisting Butter (modified), Oyim Handmade Honey Dew Lotion (modified), SM Organic Curl & Style Hair Milk and SM Hold & Shine Moisture Mist 
  • Colorant: Henna 
  • Conditioning Oils: Infused Herbal Oil Treatment 
  • Sealants: Jojoba Oil (low porosity) and shea butter mix (high porosity)
  • "Growth" Aid: JBCO/Jojoba herbal mix  
Infused Herbal Oil Treatment:
Nettle, Calendula, Chamomile and Horsetail
1/2 C each of EVCO and Avocado Oil
infuse for minimum of 8 weeks
*once infused add various EO with each use

Moisturizing DC (modified):
2 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 tsp aloe vera juice

Protein DC (modified):
High Porosity
3 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
1 1/4 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 1/2 tsp aloe vera juice

Low Porosity
2 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
3/8 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 tsp aloe vera juice

Leave in:
1 tbsp Knot Today
1/2 tbsp aloe vera juice
1/2 tsp jojoba oil
1/2 tsp castor oil

Moisturizer/Styler (modified):
1 tbsp Camilla Rosa Almond Jai Twisting Butter
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/8 lemon juice (add to lower to 4.0 for high porosity areas)

Spritz:
high porosity
1/3 cup water
3 tbsp aloe vera juice
2 tbsp veg glycerine

low porosity
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp water
1 tbsp veg glycerine 

Henna Treatment:
  • (After prepping scalp with JBCO) apply henna on hair from root to tip on air dried hair, cover w/ saran wrap, plastic bag, old shirt and let sit for 8 hours/overnight (be sure to cover pillow with an old towel as well).
  • Rinse out henna thoroughly and lightly shampoo scalp w/ moisturizing shampoo to remove traces of henna.
  • Apply moisturizing conditioner mixed with conditioning oils. Cover w/ saran wrap and let sit for 30 minutes under dryer
  • Rinse then apply leave in.
  • When hair  is dry oil scalp with oil blend, add moisturizer, seal and twist or bun.
Henna recipe: 
4 tbsp art quality henna (lawsonia inermis)
Filtered water
1/2-1 tbsp of JBCO, EVOO and moisturizing conditioner of choice after colour release
Allow to sit overnight
** I apply oil to my scalp before applying any henna because it seems my scalp is VERY sensitive. Lightly shampooing after application seems to help my scalp as well. I continue to use henna because I really like how my hair feels and looks after I use it.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

My Long Absence and Other News

 It's been a minute since I've posted a blog and there are several reasons for that. The two main reasons have been frustration and stress. I'll be honest. For some time now I have been seriously debating as to whether or not I want to continue relaxing my hair because I have just been so frustrated with it. As soon as I hit my stride I have a setback, and not a small one, a huge setback. I know everything takes time, but I am just so frustrated with feeling like I am starting from scratch whenever I hit a snag. I have had to cut--yes cut my hair at least three times in the last year due to breakage and uneven ends. Due to this issue I thought I made up my mind regarding my hair. I even went as far as to post my decision last month, but took that post down because I thought it might have been premature. Regardless of what I decided, at the present moment I am wearing my hair in braids to give it a break. If nothing else my hair will benefit from this very long stretch. In the meantime I am also reading the "Science of Black Hair", which I will be reviewing in a few weeks. So far it has taught me a lot about black hair, highlighting some of the issues I seeing with my hair. It is well worth the read if you have the time.

In other news...after several attempts I have finally made a hair moisturizer that I am happy with. I am happy because this has been a long time coming, almost a year! I tested it out on a twist last week and it felt a little heavy at first (I am heavy handed), but when I took my twist down my hair turned out pretty good: defined and well moisturized. It actually felt a little more moisturizing that the usual moisturizer I use (I did a side by side comparison).

So what does this mean for me now? Well basically that I can save my money while providing my hair with exactly what it needs. Not a bad thing at all. I think the final push I needed to get it done was the inspirational words of this natural sista on You Tube. Similar to her, I believe making your own products can be very rewarding. The best thing about it is you know exactly what is in it, and you can tailor your products to your own hair needs. And here's the best part: it cost a fraction of the price of so many all natural products on the market now--and mine IS all natural. Hearing all these points made by this young lady reminded me of the various reasons I attempted to make my own hair products in the first place. It was definitely the final push I needed to dust off my scale and go back to the drawing board. I'm glad I did because it was a big success. I have no plans to sell my moisturizer, I simply made it to meet my own needs.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

The Secrets of Emu Oil

Yesterday I was catching up on some of my subscriptions on You Tube and I was quite impressed with a natural hair diva's progress on growing in her edges with the support of JBCO and Emu Oil. As you know my edges have been a problem area for me for some time so I've decided to add  this area to my hair new growth challenge (starting August 28). Before I take on this challenge I wanted to do some research to ensure I am using the most effective product on this area to get the best results. Now I already know about the various benefits of JBCO and I've posted the results I've received the first time I used it. However, I have never heard about Emu Oil. So I went to work....

To my surprise Emu Oil has gained significant attention in the natural community for sometime, said to provide great benefits for the skin and hair. Sourced in Australia, Aborigines have been using it for years to help alleviate achy muscles and joints and as a salve to heal cuts and burns. Emu's Oil's biggest claims however, lie in its ability to cause cellular regeneration in the skin--sounds good so far. So what does any of this have to do with hair?

As it turns out, hair can also benefit greatly from regular use of Emu Oil treatments. Its regenerative capabilities it said to have nearly three times the normal cellular activity on the scalp helping hair look and grow in more healthier and become more resilient to environmental and hormonal stresses. As well, Emu Oil has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties, which help to break down undesirable buildup and residue at the scalp and roots, thereby increasing volume and manageability. 

Now, Emu Oil does not have the ability to regrow hair if the hair follicle has died. So if damaged follicles is the cause of your thinning hairline, it probably will not help much there (some argue otherwise). However, if the hair is simply weakened by environmental or hormonal stress, then Emu Oil has been said to help the skin (or scalp in this case) become alive again.   

As with all products, natural or otherwise, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do your research before attempting to use it. Although Emu Oil is an all natural product, the benefits outlined here are only available if the product has been processed correctly. Unlike EVCO or shea butter for example, this product must be refined to free it of any hormonal contaminants, blood, meat residue or any extraction solvents that may be used while processing the product. The best oils, whether it be Emu Oil or vegetable based oils are made WITHOUT solvent extractors to prevent unwanted tran fatty acids from being produced. As well, pure Emu Oil will  not have any synthetic anti-oxidants or preservatives added to it. One way you can tell the difference between refined and unrefined Emu Oil will be the colour and odour. Apparently refined Emu Oil is a very light (almost white) cream in colour with no odour, while unrefined Emu Oil has a strong odour and is a yellowish cream in colour.

Given the many benefits am I going to jump on the Emu Oil bandwagon? I don't know yet....I don't know if I like the idea of using a animal by product on my skin/scalp with even the smallest risk of contacting some nasty disease/bacteria, especially since I've decided to stop eating meat for that very reason. Refined or not, abstinence is the only guarantee I can get from contracting something, regardless of FDA standards or company promises. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but contaminated products slip by testing machines all the time--can we say food recall. I will stick to my simple JBCO for now and continue to look into it....I just thought this was worth sharing.

resource
resource

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Shea Moisture

**Note: ETA changes/update ratings on July 30, 2011

As I use up the last of my Aphogee Pro-Vitamin, Dove Moisture Mist and NTM I am happy to crack open my newest hair products. I am first and foremost proud of the fact that I refrained  from buying these products before I used up most of the stuff I currently have because I could easily spend a mini fortune on hair products . It was hard, but my wallet appreciated it. I think my hair appreciated the wait as well because now I truly know what is working and not working on her. It also didn't hurt that most of these product are only available in the US and can not be shipped here (as far as I know), which forced me to wait until I could take a trip down (for another matter of course). I figured they were worth mentioning despite the limitation in accessing them since many of my current followers all live in the and you will be able to find these product fairly easy as they are available at your local Walgreens or Target.



Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo ($9.99 US)

Promise: Hydrates, smooths and repairs strands. leaving hair manageably soft. For dry, damage hair. Heal, grow and strengthen. Sea kelp trace minerals detoxify hair follicles of impurities and residue. Argan oil restores shine and rebuilds hair elasticity. Shea butter deeply moisturizes and repairs damage to hair and scalp.

Ingredients: Deionized Water , Decyl Glucoside (Sugar Beets) , African Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Aloe Vera Leaf Juice , Argan Oil , Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) , Rosemary Extract , Sea Kelp Extract , Vitamin E, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract (Honeysuckle) , Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract (Japanese Honeysuckle)

Results: First I must say I was soooo happy to finally find an all natural shampoo that lathered and didn't make my hair feel like straw *cough* Aubrey Organics--. I will be honest I had to use this product on two different occasions to really see if I liked it or not, which should not be the case if it is in fact a good product (at least I think so). I did this because I wasn't in love with the product and was concerned it was stripping my hair too much, however I told myself to give it one more try because it wasn't horrible. On the second attempt it felt a bit better. Now the only difference I can think of is the fact that one week I was washing out a protein pre-poo and the second time I was washing out an oil treatment pre-poo. Should that matter? I'm not sure, but apparently it does on my hair because the second time it did not feel as stripped. My scalp did begin to itch slightly in some areas shortly after washing my hair, which truthfully I have not experienced in a long while since changing shampoos. The itchy scalp actually continued days after washing my hair despite oiling my scalp--not a good sign. The shampoo is on the thicker side, providing a rich lather, so a little goes a long way. I used less than a dime size per section (I section my hair in fours) and only needed to wash my scalp once. It felt clean, smooth and detangled. I'm not a fan of the smell, but overall it did a good job cleaning my hair/scalp.  Overall, I will give this product a Smiley. I would have given it more, but I still find my Aveda Dry Remedy more moisturizing and the return of the itchies may be an indication that it is in fact stripping (or just irritating my scalp). By the way when I switched back to my Aveda the itchies stopped, so you be the judge. Given these results I highly doubt this will replace my Aveda Dry Remedy. Oh well...


Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk ($9.99 US)

Promise: Detangles, conditions and controls curls, while restoring body and shine. Provides moisture and body. For thick, curly hair. Coconut oil hydrates and protects hair from heat and chemical damage. Silk protein reduces breakage, strengthens hair and adds smoothness and silkiness. Neem oil and old age ayurvedic oil that strengthens hair and provides brilliant shine
  
Ingredients: Deionized Water , Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut) , Sugar Starch , Silk Protein , Essential Oil Blend , Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil (Neem), Caprylyl Glycol , Sorbitol Esters , Algae Extract , Hlyssopus Officinalis Extract , Salvia Officinalis Leaf and Equisetum Arvense Extract (Sage) , Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil (Carrot) , Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract (Honeysuckle and Japanese Honeysuckle) , Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Results: I must begin by saying that this product smells great. Now I'm sure you are wondering, "why are you using something that is made for curly hair", well "just because" I like to try new things. The ingredients looked great, so I figured why not give it a try. It is light, non-greasy and absorbs beautifully in my hair. When my hair dried, it wasn't as smooth, shiny or as soft as I am use to. It wasn't bad, but I am use to a particular feel and look on my hair and as of late it has been air drying a lot smoother and shinier than it has in a long while, that is before I used this product. I also tried it as a daily moisturizer and it worked out much better. My hair was soft and felt very moisturized. With that being said I have to give this product a Smiley because I wanted more from it as a leave in, but it turned out to be a really good moisturizer. I recognize it is a protein based product and I have recently discovered that certain proteins effect my hair differently.  As well, I did use this product with the Moisture Mist initially (see below), which simply may be too much for my hair. This may be the reason it didn't dry as nicely as I would have liked.


Shea Moisture Organic Hold and Shine Hair Moisture Mist ($9.99 US)

Promise: Our all-natural moisture mist eliminates frizz, while hydrating hair and creating brilliant shine and curl control. For thick, curly hair. Coconut oil hydrates and protects hair from heat and chemical damage. Silk protein reduces breakage, strengthens hair and adds smoothness and silkiness. Neem oil and old age ayurvedic oil that strengthens hair and provides brilliant shine

Ingredients: Deionized Water , Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Silk Protein , Essential Oil Blend , Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil (Neem) , Algae Extract , Hlyssopus Officinalis Extract , Salvia Officinalis Leaf and Equisetum Arvense Extract (Sage) , Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract (Honeysuckle and Japanese Honeysuckle) , Tocopherol (Vitamin E).

Results: Now as you noticed this is another protein based product so similarly to the above product it didn't do too much for my hair. Again, not horrible, just okay. I didn't have any frizz, so it kept its promises. My hair also felt a bit fuller, so that is a plus. I also tried it with my Giovanni and the results came out much better when it air dried. I guess this is an indication that these products should not be used together. Overall, I will give this product a Smiley because it smells great, its a good alternative to my Aphogee Pro-vitamin since it didn't hurt my hair in any way. My scalp itched a little bit with this product however, but eventually subsided.





Smiley - Smiley = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

Smiley - Smiley = neither hit or miss; just okay

Smiley - Smiley = good product; really worth trying.

Smiley = amazing product!

Regimen (old)

Since I have made a few "small" changes to my regimen in February I have noticed a huge difference in the texture and health of my hair. Logging theses changes on a daily basis has also made it easier to adjust my products as needed, which has helped me save my hair from a lot of damage that in the past would have me in tears. Since February I have removed some products and added a few. You'll notice my product list is now 99% natural, which was a long time coming. I also got this protein-moisture balance thing working--FINALLY! So here's where I am so far:


Basic regimen:
  • Pre-poo with EVCO overnight 2x/month
  • Scalp treatment overnight 1x/week
  • Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo 1x/week
  • Co-wash 1x/week 
  •  Apply moisturizing conditioner 2x/week
  • Apply mild protein 1x/3 weeks overnight
  • ACV/herbal rinse 1x/week
  • Apply moisture or protein based leave ins as needed
  • Air dry with scarf
  • Bun as low manipulation/protective style 
  • Moisture and seal ends 1-2x/day
  • Clarify as needed
  • Henna as needed
Additional things:
Oil scalp 2x/week with JBCO/EVCO/Jojoba mix
Massage scalp daily
Relax every 8-10 weeks; apply EVCO to scalp and ends prior to relaxer
Multivitamin, Vitamin B Complex, Iron, Vitamin E and Omega 3-6-9 daily (I take these because I am a vegetarian and lack some nutrients)

Products:
Henna Treatment:
  • (After prepping scalp with JBCO) apply henna on hair from root to tip on air dried hair, cover w/ saran wrap, plastic bag, old shirt and let sit for 8 hours/overnight (be sure to cover pillow with an old towel as well).
  • Rinse out henna thoroughly and lightly shampoo scalp w/ moisturizing shampoo to remove traces of henna.
  • Apply AOHR/AOWCC mixed with conditioning oils. Cover w/ saran wrap for 2-3 hours. 
  • Rinse then apply moisture base hair as leave in.
  • When hair  is dry oil scalp with oil blend, add moisturizer, seal and twist or bun.
Henna recipe: 
4 tbsp art quality henna (lawsonia inermis)
Filtered water
1/2-1 tbsp of JBCO, EVOO and moisturizing conditioner of choice after colour release
Allow to sit overnight
** I apply oil to my scalp before applying any henna because it seems my scalp is VERY sensitive. Lightly shampooing after application seems to help my scalp as well. I continue to use henna because I really like how my hair feels and looks after I use it.

ACV/Hair Rinse
3/4 tsp ACV
2 cups filtered water
mix of herbs of choice (optional)

Boil water and remove from stove, add mixed herbs (1 tbsp) and let sit overnight
In the morning strain herbs and add ACV

Mini Goals Reviewed

Well I've been gone for a minute I know, but it was unavoidable. Life keeps me busy and frankly exhausted. It has taken enough energy to make sure I maintain my regimen, which has paid off. Anyway, It just occurred to me that I did not do an update after my relaxer in May, but there wasn't much to report anyway. As you know I had a serious breakage mishap at the back of my hair, which has really slowed my progress--bad weave mishap. Since I've been paying more attention to my hair I have seen a significant difference in terms of health. Unfortunately, this change hasn't translated to the length due to the fact that I am cutting off the damaged ends gradually.  Lately I have felt so defeated and frustrated because of the set back I experienced, even toyed with the idea of going natural, but I am trekking on.

This is where I am so far:

Mini goals:
  1. Eliminate (or at least seriously reduce) dry/itchy scalp
  2. Obtain and maintain strength/moisture balance
  3.  Reduce/stop breakage!!!!!!!!!!!  (much better)
  4. Reduce shedding
  5. Increase thickness (or at least seriously reduce) 
  6. Low manipulation style 95% of the time  
  7. Daily 1 min scalp massages  (slacking here)
In addition, these are my overall health goals which should help me get to my hair goals:
  1. Drink minimum of 2 liters H2O/day (a lot better)
  2. Eat 6 small well balanced meals everyday (much better) Take a good quality multivitamin (3x/day) as well as regular Iron, Calcium and B-vitamin complex 
  3. Get adequate sleep (need to be more consistent)
  4. De-stress with regular exercise/fun activity (ummm.....)
Well I am finally seeing some real movement in terms of my mini goals. I believe all of the changes I have seen has to do with the fact that I have made minor, but significant changes to the way I handle and manage my hair. The result has been much healthier feeling/looking hair. Please take a moment to look at the changes I've made to my regimen as well as a review on some of the new products I am trying.

Next check in August 2011

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Homemade Avocado Masque/Brief Hair Update

*ETA: Please note that this was written when I my hair was relaxed. I am currently natural and no longer do an avocado masque treatment for the following reasons.

I have always found the love-hate relationship I have with "Diva!" has always been an interesting one. I rarely feel like I love her (which may be part of the problem), but when I love her--I really love her. I recently tried a homemade avocado mask and it was WONDER-F-U-L, emphasis on the "full". My hair felt thicker, fortified and strong, without feeling brittle or rigid. Once I followed up with my moisturizing conditioner it was silky and just lovely. And breakage?--what breakage? Now that may not seem like much success to the rare women that experience absolutely no breakage during their wash routine, but given the drama I have been experiencing over the last four weeks, it is a pleasant change. My hair air dried beautifully and looked thicker, if that is possible.

In its natural state avocado can be used as a protein conditioner, which is how I used it. I typically do a protein conditioner the week after a relaxer to replenish the lost protein and nutrients following such a harsh chemical treatment. Up to this point I have always used Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor, but this masque whooped that conditioners butt hands down. I say this, not because the Aphogee 2 Minute is a bad product, or even because it is hard on my hair. Unlike most protein conditioners it has never left my hair stiff or hard. I say this simply because the avocado masque is all natural--and hello-- it cost me roughly $1.95 (per use) when you take the cost of the avocado, the egg and the oils used. Compare that to Aphogee, which cost me $13-15 CDN a bottle. No real contest. Here is the recipe I used and how I used it:

1 small hass avocado
1 egg
1 tbsp each of EVCO, EVOO, JBCO
1 tbsp honey

 First I blended the avocado and oils well in a blender until smooth then add the egg and the honey. The mask was thick, smooth and silky. Your final product should look like a green coloured creamy mayo--it will smell like that too. I added about a tsp of lavender essential oil to mask the smell a little, but it's not necessary. If you are going to add a scent please be sure to use an EO that will benefit your hair in some way.


I applied the mask to dry hair, from root to tip with an application brush, wrap with saran wrap, plastic cap and then two scarves to protect my pillow. I left it in over night and in the morning rinsed it out. I then used a moisturizing shampoo gently on my scalp in sections allowing the suds (not my fingers) to wash my hair and followed with my moisturizing conditioner/oil mix for 2 1/2 hours without heat. Finally I applied my ACV herbal rinse as a final rinse, (I did not rinse out the ACV herbal rinse), applied my moisture based leave in(s) and air dried as usual. That's it.

Initially, I was worried because it wasn't drying as soft as I like, but once it was completely dried, it was very soft and strong. It also dried a lot smoother and shiner than it typically does. Overall, I am very pleased with the results. Eventually, I want to be able to replace all my synthetic based hair products, so I am very happy that this worked out so well. I just need to make sure I don't overdo it.
                                 

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Mini Goals (Review)

Well I am a few days late for this update, but better late than never right? It just occurred to me that I did not do an update after my relaxer in December, but there wasn't much to report anyway. Lately I have felt so defeated and frustrated because of the set back I experienced. I haven't even posted a pic of my hair since December because I just feel what is the point? I don't have any progress to post, if anything I lost a significant amount of hair .

Anyway, if you have been following my blog you'll know that I've been trying to get back on track. I had my pity party for the last few weeks and I'm ready to get back on track.

This is where I am so far:

Mini goals:
  1. Eliminate (or at least seriously reduce) dry/itchy scalp (had a minor setback, but I'm back on track baby)
  2. Obtain and maintain strength/moisture balance (better)
  3.  Reduce/stop breakage
  4. Reduce shedding
  5. Increase thickness (just okay, needs improvement)
  6. Low manipulation style 95% of the time  
  7. Daily 1 min scalp massages
In addition, these are my overall health goals which should help me get to my hair goals:
  1. Drink minimum of 2 liters H2O/day (need to be more consistent)
  2. Eat 6 small well balanced meals everyday (need to be more consistent)
  3. Take a good quality multivitamin (3x/day) as well as regular Iron, Calcium and B-vitamin complex (much better)
  4. Get adequate sleep (need to be more consistent)
  5. De-stress with regular exercise/fun activity
Well I've still been \ bit better with my overall health goals and I have seen some significant changes to my hair health. It's just a shame I had to lose so much hair before I got my act together. Ah well....

Next check in July 2011

Thursday, April 28, 2011

What's Hiding in Your Cabinet?

As you know I am slowly making my way through the various hair products that I have in an effort to streamline what I am using and to eliminate some of the non-natural products I own. As I get through the last bit of these products it occurred to me that there are several products that I think deserve an honourable mention despite their synthetic ingredients because they were quite effective on my hair. Some of you might be thinking, "well why get rid of them if they are doing a good job?" The only answer I can give is "because that is the choice I have made for myself and my hair". Gradually I have been replacing these products, with some success (and some disappointments), which I have also discussed below.

If you plan to try any of these products please don't let my words discourage you. My goal is not to discourage anyone from trying a product I've mentioned on my blog. Please remember, this blog is about my personal hair journey, highlighting the highs and lows of my hair (rightly named "Diva!") and as I've already established, she is a bit of a snob when it come to most hair products. What doesn't work for her, may work wonders for your hair....so always try things out for yourself.


Nature's Gate Aloe Vera Moisturizing Conditioner ($5.99-$7.95 CDN)

Promise: Gently effective, this exotic combination of herbs packed with natural proteins help condition, moisturize, nourish and restore natural softness and shine, giving you silky soft and tangle-free hair.

Ingredients: Water, Cetyl Alcohol**, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Panthenol, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Viola Tricolor (Wild Pansy) Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Stearalkonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.
** plant derived source said to be safe

Results: When I used this product I was pleasantly surprised. It isn't the greatest conditioner for deep conditioning in my opinion, but it is a great "cheapie" conditioner for co-washing. I swear my tangles just fell out with very little effort when I applied it directly to a tangled section for a few seconds. My comb just glided through my hair with such ease I did a little happy dance in the shower . When my hair dried my new growth was incredibly soft and felt moisturized. Overall, I was very pleased. The smell is pleasant and fruity, yet mild. It is just too bad it has all those darn chemicals in it. But if you are not as particular as me, I would definitely give it a try, especially if you can find it for $5.99 or less. Overall, I will give this product a Smiley. I would have given it more, but it didn't work like a conditioner should just a great co-wash product. Problem is, if you don't like to co-wash your hair, then this product may not be for you.

Giovanni Direct Leave In Conditioner ($6.99-$10.99 CDN)

Promise: Restores strength, luster and nourishment to abused hair. Moisturizes and builds body. This conditioner infuses each individual hair with proteins. Detangles for easy comb-out, easy styling.

Ingredients: Aqua (purified water) with *rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, *nettle (Uritica dioica) oil, *thyme (Thymus vulagris) oil, birch leaf (Butela alba) oil, *chamomile (Anthemis nobilus flower) oil, *clary (Salvia sclarea), *lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), *coltsfoot leaf (Tussilago farfara), *yarrow (Achillea millefolium) oil, *mallow (Malva sylvestris), *horsetail (Equistetum arvense) oil, *soybean protein (Glycine soja), cetyl alcohol (plant derived), tocopherol (vitamin E), trace minerals, citric acid (corn), sodium hydroxymethyglycinate, grapefruit seed (citrus derived).

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.

Results: When I used this product a few weeks ago I was so impressed I was wondering why I had stopped using it. My hair was so smooth and detangled beautifully. When my hair dried it was a lot straighter than usual and had far less frizz and incredibly soft. The best part is I had absolutely NO breakage. I was ecstatic ! This product has been hiding at the back of my cabinet since I began my journey simply because I was trying to reduce the amount of protein I was using. As I have become more educated about balancing moisture and protein I felt it was safe to give it another try, mainly to use up the last bit of it. The amount of protein in this product is very minimal given its location on the ingredient list. It is also a vegetable source protein, which is not as strong as other forms of protein. This product is such a great leave in that I think a person can over look the last ingredient (which is arguably NOT natural although it is promoted as such). Overall, I have to give this product an Smiley because I really loved what it did for my hair. That's a pretty high score, which says a lot given the fact that I am so picky. It honestly would have got a 8.5 if the product contained a natural preservative.

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Split End Protector ($2.99-$5.99 CDN)

Promise: "The beautiful beginning of the ends. Smooth them with a kiss of protective conditioning that strengthens your hair against split ends and breakage. I'll help keep your hair from splitsville with my quenching formula fused with extracts of red raspberry and satin. I'm a tip treat with a silky finish that feels so good."

Ingredients: water/eau, stearyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane, cetyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rubus idaeus (raspberry) juice, hydrolyzed silk, dimethicone, glutamic acid, fragrance/parfum, benzyl alcohol, citric acid, sodium chloride, edta, propylene glycol, dmdm hydantoin, red 33.

Results: Now the price alone is a huge plus, however I care more about the product itself and the effect it has on my hair. I will say overall, the product was just "fine". It moisturized well enough, but left my hair  a little stiff (if you can believe that ), but it may be the fact that I used too much. it may also be because of the protein, which I was not aware was in it prior to doing this review.  It also left a slight film over my hair, which I believed was because of the cones. It really didn't leave my hair feeling as moisturized as I would have liked, but "moisturized" enough none-the less. I found this disappointing because so many people rave about it. For this reason I have to give it a Smiley.


Oyin Homemade Hair Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion ($12-$19 US or $24.00-$36.00 CDN--oh yes you read that correctly!!!!)

Promise: This creamy, conditioning leave-in is light enough for every day. it's great on 'naked' hair immediately after a cleanse, or as a way to reinvigorate tired hair all the way through your hair care cycle. Looking for a product to wake up and moisturize your 'second day hair'? Looking for a way to make your hair pliable enough to re-style without a full rinse? Just want to refresh your coils and curls and give them a shot of moisture before sealing? This leave-in is your answer! As always, mineral/paraffin/petroleum free and full of nourishing castor, olive, and coconut oils instead. We also combine with aloe vera to quench the thirstiest hair... and since it's glycerin-free it's appropriate for even the driest of climates. Give your hair a drink today!

Ingredients: purified water, castor oil, olive oil, organic aloe vera gel, behentrimonium methosulfate (emulsifier), coconut oil, olive squalane, optiphen (preservative), cetyl alcohol, fragrance, and love!

Results: So, I finally found a moisture based all natural daily moisturizer, but the gosh darn price tag had me shaking my head for days. I tried to get around it by going directly to the website, which you can see sells the product for 50% less and that's even with the exchange rate. The problem is shipment fees. They are so ridiculous it was actually cheaper to buy it locally. Luckily, the store I buy some of my products from was having a monthly promotion, which brought the cost down. Despite the price I simply had to try it after reading and watching several reviews on  it, the whole time hoping I would not be disappointed. Now let me start of by saying I love the fact that this products is made fresh to order so that they are not sitting on shelves for months/years. I wanted to wait before giving a review on this product simply because I was not impressed at all the first time I used it. It is not a bad product. It is moisturizing, however it seems like it took a while for my hair to respond to this product. Many people mentioned in their reviews that this product felt amazing the very next day after using it. Their hair was so soft, so manageable, blah, blah, blah...Well Ms. "Diva!" was not hearing it, at least not initially. Like I said it was good, but not amazing, especially for the cost--and I don't mean the Canadian price. I think $12.00 is pretty pricey for this product. Also, I was not that keen on the burnt-sugar scent. It was actually a little off putting to me; I am now use to it, but it took some time. Now, 6 days later, my hair seems to be warming up to the product. I may have been a little heavy handed the first few times I used it, not sure--but likely (LOL), which may have given me the lack luster results I saw initially. My hair feels very soft and moisturized. My breakage seems to be improving as well, so everything is gravy. With all of this taken in consideration I had to give this product an Smiley because the price is simply hurting my pocket.

Smiley - Smiley = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

Smiley - Smiley = neither hit or miss; just okay

Smiley - Smiley = good product; really worth trying.

Smiley = amazing product!

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Hair Faux Pas: How to Get That Hair Growing...Finally

For the last little while I have been a little less motivated to continue with my journey. I think its something we all go through, but I think a lot of my frustration has been more about the fact that I have seen less than desirable results. The fact that I suffered a small set back hasn't helped the situation at all.

In an effort to keep myself motivated I have been doing my usual round on the internet. Reading this and that, which I enjoy doing because I can often find women that have similar hair textures and/or hair issues as my own. Hearing their story is always inspiring and it helps me push on. Seeing their progress gives me hope, but leads me to ask: why am I not seeing progress? I know the basic stuff I should be doing--or do I? Am I causing the issues with my hair?

Ladies, it goes without saying that hair grows, no matter what you do; it will grow. It also goes without saying that 99% of the upkeep and maintenance of my hair fall solely on my shoulders (pardon the pun). I only go to the salon once every 9-10 weeks for my relaxer touch up (self-relaxing was a disaster), and I have no plans to alter that relationship. So if these two things-- continued hair growth and personal maintenance--are indisputable, then I can only conclude that any hair breakage or damage I experience is the result of something I am doing or not doing to my hair, right?

Now I am not saying any of this to be hard on myself. I believe I have come a loooong way since the beginning of my hair journey in terms of knowledge and the general care of my hair. However, I am not seeing the results that I would like to see, plain and simple. Again, I am not being hard on myself or even unrealistic; I am not expecting to go from SL to APL in two months or anything like that. However, I am expecting to at least see a few inches of progress from one relaxer touch up to the next. Instead, I am seeing breakage on a consistent basis, that is not normal. My hair has also been hovering at SL for the last 4-5 months (taking setback into account), and that is not normal either. So clearly there are things I can be doing better, I just need to figure it out, which brings me to a beautiful hair diva's channel on YouTube.

Let me tell you, this woman Shlinda is funny, sassy, but more importantly, she points out the many hair faux pas that women are doing to their hair that leads to ongoing hair issues, information that may not be new, but helpful none the less. She points out the simple things that make me just shake my head thinking--"Really, how simple is that?! Why haven't I been doing that?" The following tips are some things that Shlinda has suggested on her channel and a few of the things are my own tips that are sure to get that hair growing.

1. Re-evaluate how you HANDLE your hair.
I personally can be VERY rough with my hair. When I M & S, when I detangle and when I style, I AM rough, plain and simple. I never really stopped to think about how hard I was being on my hair, but I have always been quick to tell my hairdresser or my BF, "oh no, you need to be careful" whenever they handled it too roughly. Well, as the saying goes "what is good for the goose, is good for the gander"--I need to start doing what I am instructing other people to do.

2. Maintaining a DAILY journal.
I typically don't do this. I make note of what I have tried/use whenever I wash my hair or use a new product. I also update my blog with any new discoveries, but a daily log is a different thing entirely. For many women this won't be necessary, but for newbies (I consider myself a sophomore) this is a good idea. Record what you are doing to your hair everyday.  How does it feel after using each product? How does it feel at the end of the day? At the end of the week? This will tell you if the product is a keeper or should be trashed. You will also recognize when something isn't going well with you hair sooner than later because you are forcing yourself to be more aware on a daily basis vs. weekly or monthly basis.

3. THROW AWAY products that simply don't work for your hair.
I've already said this and follow this practice, but I've slipped a few times. Now this is a tricky "rule" as some products need adjusting to work effectively on your hair. Not to mention no one is made of money and I know I don't have the luxury of buying and simply throwing out products because they don't work the first time around. But don't feel you must commit to a product simply because "everyone" else swears by it. Products do not work the same way on every person. You know when something is working for your hair or not. My rule of thumb is to let my hair be the true judge. If my hair is generally soft, supple, etc and I use a product that makes it feel like straw, I will not play around with that product to see if I can "make it work". It's simple not for me. Now if a product makes my hair feel "okay" then I will play with oils or combine it with other products to see if it works better. Over the last year or so I have learned more about my hair and I can make these decisions a lot quicker than in the past. Unfortunately, when I've waited too long to throw away a product this has been disastrous for my hair.

4. MAKE TIME for your hair
Now this is not what you think it means. As you know I take time out to do my hair on a weekly basis. What I am talking about is giving yourself the time required to do your hair with the least amount of damage as possible. These are two different things. Sure, I would deep condition my hair every week, M&S everyday, co-wash weekly (sometimes ), but I use to whip through this process. Sometime I did this because I did not have enough time to do these things, so I would rush through it. However, there were times when I just didn't want to do the things I had to do to maintain my hair, so I would just do a quick job to "get it over with".  I would quickly M&S for example just ripping through my hair so I could get to bed or out the door (which highlights tip #1), yet be confused when I saw broken pieces in my hand. I think taking the time to slowly do these things will make a huge difference in your hair. Small changes like waking up earlier, M&Sing as soon as you get home before you get too tired, washing or co-washing on days when you have more time to slow the process down can all be helpful in this area.

See these are all such simple things, but I've been sleeping on it I tell you. It's so simple and doesn't require any effort at all. Rather, it requires you relax on how much "effort" you're putting into your hair.


HHG!

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Great Lessons from Natural Divas

I enjoy learning new things about hair regardless of the teacher because I think the more you know, the more equipped you are to properly take care of your hair. I know there are some women that have relaxed hair that will only listen to information from other women with relaxed hair. While I see the merit in this approach, I think there are some limitations (which I will get to later). 


I have learned so much from fellow hair divas on YouTube (e.g. JustThisGirl1, KISSseventyseven, ninapruitt, sexymami1001, chinablk, ulovemegz just to name a few) in terms of technique, product review and basic hair care information. These women have shown me it is possible to achieve and maintain long relaxed hair as long as you have the right education. Even more, they know what I am struggling with and can make suggestions that will help me out as I bump around figuring this hair stuff out. Similarly, I have found that my natural hair divas have also been immensely helpful in terms of knowledge, product and technique as well. Now I know your probably thinking, how can someone with natural hair help me out with knowledge, hair care products or technique to use on relaxed hair? Well this is how:


1. Knowledge
When someone makes the decision to wear their hair natural they ultimately become much more knowledgeable about their natural hair structure and the elements that improve the quality of their hair. Depending on the state of your hair prior to the decision to go natural you may notice changes with your scalp, hair moisture levels and protein tolerance, things that will help you understand the way you hair should be in the first place. For some of us, we have been relaxed for so long that we are completely unaware of our hair's baseline or natural state and what looks/feels normal. Something I have learned from my natural hair sisters is the fact that many hair products meant to help our hair actually disturbs the pH balance of our hair and scalp, which leads to the many issues we have (e.g. tangles, knots, breakage, dryness). As you know the process of relaxing the hair already disturbs the pH level of the hair and scalp. Our goal then is to try to help return it to normal pH levels, which we achieve by neutralizing the relaxer. From that point on we then have to work to achieve and maintain a normal protein-moisture balance in our hair to further protect it from damage, which we do with regular conditioning and deep treatments. Knowledge of what our hair should look and feel like only helps with these goal because it will give you something to aim for.

Growing up I believed dandruff was a "natural" condition that every black woman had to deal with. And what do you do with dandruff? If you grew up in my house you scratch the living day lights out of it to "lift" the dandruff so it could be brushed away, not knowing that this act was more harmful than beneficial for the scalp. Now my lack of knowledge of what a healthy scalp should look and feel like made it hard for me to address the issue effectively. Instead, I would use products that were masking the issue or making the situation worse. Effectively stopping our hair "ills" usually only requires that we look more closely at the products we are using on our hair because your hair/scalp is clearly telling you something about that product. Point and case, for years I have been using CON thinking it was the best shampoo for my hair, based on advice and lack of adequate knowledge about my hair. I also had the driest, itchiest scalp imaginable-- it drove me crazy. So I decided to tackle it. I kept using CON and my situation never improved. It was frustrating and I couldn't understand what the problem was. Eventually I stopped using CON (not because I thought this was the problem at the time) and began using more natural products, which began my hair journey. I also began using natural oils and  EO on my scalp, which slowly began to improve the situation. With time and determination my scalp stopped itching completely and it was not longer flaking; my scalp had achieve a more "balanced" state. In comes CON. In an effort to use up the last few bottles I had, I brought it back into my regimen. Within weeks my dry itchy scalp returned. Given the fact that CON was the only thing that I had changed to my product line up I had to conclude that it was the CON causing my irritated scalp.

The point I am trying to make has nothing to do with CON itself as a product--it works wonderfully for some women. It is more about the fact that my scalp was not healthy because it had been taken far off it pH levels (by relaxing) and never returned as it should. The product I was using simply was not doing what my hair was saying it needed it to do, bring it back into balance.


2. Hair Products
While it is not always the case, most women that have decided to grow their hair naturally tend to use natural products to take care of their hair. There are a number of reasons that they do this, but the one reason that stands out is the fact that natural products can produce great results. If you have been following my blog for a while then you know I am on a mission to use all natural products on my hair despite the fact that I am relaxed. I am not going to get into my decision to relax and use natural products here, but I will say that I believe there are a lot of benefits to using natural products on the hair/scalp. A lot of companies, in an effort to save cost and raise profits, use cheap ingredients in their products, which can damage  the hair with continued use. Now this is not the case for some women. They seem to have great results with products that use mineral oil, petrolatum, and sulfates; I have not. It wasn't until I began using natural products that I began seeing results with my hair. Now I know technique has a lot to do with our ability to maintain our hair lengths, but the products we choose to use has just as much, if not more to do with hair retention. If something is coating my hair and preventing it from getting the moisture it needs and requires there is a strong possibility it will break off.

Now my hair seems to be a real snob when it comes to hair products, which is why I named her "Diva!"; she likes what she likes and doesn't apologize for it. The unfortunate thing is many women that have relaxed hair do not use 100% natural products on their hair (not including oils of course!), which has not been that helpful to me when I am searching for products to use on my hair. Much of what I have learned about natural products has come from my natural hair divas and research. I think there is this belief that if you have relaxed hair you must use products that are "tailored" for relaxed hair. Similar things have been said about using "white" hair products on "black" hair. Both of these statements are myths. Hair is hair regardless of its texture, and it has the same needs--moisture, protein and balance.

3. Technique
No one would argue that relaxed hair is fragile. Improper use of combs, brushes or heat can cause damage leading to breakage. So it may come as a surprise that many believe that curly/ coiled natural hair is equally as fragile due to its structure. It took me a while to wrap my head around this argument, but as I learned more about my hair structure I understood why this is the case. Without getting into the mechanics of hair, tightly coiled hair has its share of limitations in terms of its ability to get adequate moisture and tangles. I have three close friends that have natural hair and only one of the three has been able to achieve very long length in her natural state. The only difference between this long loced diva and my other girlfriends is the dedication and time she puts into washing, deep conditioning and moisturizing her hair on a regular basis. The other two experience breakage, dandruff and tangles and have no idea why. Now before you ask the question, I am not one to "educate" other women on their hair when I am not ask for my opinion. I think it can come off as arrogant and truthfully I am not a qualified to give anyone direction. I can share my knowledge and that's it. And as I mentioned earlier, there are women that strongly believe that relaxed women can only educate other relaxed women about hair; not naturals. But I digress....

The care and dedication I see my natural divas use when moisturizing their hair (separating it into sections, gently combing with their fingers, combing from the ends to the root) are all very reminiscent of women with relaxed hair. In fact, there are more similarities than difference between relaxed and natural hair women in term of technique. 

So there you have it. There is a lot of knowledge you can garner from a natural hair sister, so I say get as much info as you can. Knowledge is knowledge, no matter who it comes from.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Hair Challenges Following a Vegetarian/Vegan Diet

The other day I had a meeting with my doctor so I could get the results of my yearly check-up. I was happy to hear that all thing looked good, minus a few issues with my hemoglobin levels due to iron deficiency. My iron levels have always been an issue for me, especially now that I am a vegetarian (I was actually a vegan for about a year, but it became such a challenge to find recipes that I liked so I gave it up). As a result, I have encountered a lot of challenges with my hair, which sadly, comes with the territory of a vegetarian diet--but this doesn't have to be the case (which I will get to later).

In an effort to improve my overall health (and of course my hair, I hit the computer to research the different types of plant-based foods I should be including in my diet to ensure I am getting the required vitamins, minerals and protein/amino acids for optimal hair health. This is something I probably should have done before I changed my diet, but that's okay; you live and learn.

If you are thinking about changing to a plant-based diet there are some things you will need to be aware of as the change this type of diet may bring about several changes for your hair*:

1) Dryness. This can occur for several reasons in a typical diet, but is mainly due to poor water consumption. In a vegetarian diet however, this may indicate that you are not be getting enough essential fatty acids. Essential fatty acids have been attributed to improving the texture of hair.The best whole food sources of healthy fats in a vegetarian diet are nuts, seeds, avocados and, soybeans, soy products, olives and flaxseed oil. Flaxseed oil is a pure vegetable fat and, like all fats, should be used in moderation (about 1 tablespoon per day). Flaxseed oil should never be heated or used to cook with. It is best drizzled over foods (such as salads, vegetables, or baked potatoes) or used in salad dressing or smoothies. Flax oil must be stored in the refrigerator (or freezer, to extend its life) and should be used up by the expiration date on the bottle. You should aim for a healthy balance of omega 3 and omega 6. 

2) Shedding and Thinning Hair. When changing to a plant-based diet there will be a drop in your calorie intake. This is expected as the increase in fiber through fruits and vegetables is so filling that you may not be eating enough calories. Unfortunately, this sudden drop in weight loss can lead to thin, brittle hair and temporary hair loss (shedding). As your body adjust to this change the shedding will subside. To minimize this condition, be sure to get plenty of all four food groups: whole grains, legumes (beans, nuts, seeds), fruits, and vegetables in your diet.  If your hair is thinning, assess your diet to be sure it's well balanced, and make adjustments to ensure you're not malnourished.

3) Slow Hair Growth. By restricting all animal products, you limit your access to protein, iron, amino acids and certain vitamins that are typically obtained from meat, poultry, fish, eggs and dairy. A well planned vegetarian or vegan diet should provide you with all the nourishment your body needs. However, sometimes vegetarian and vegan diets are not as varied or nutrient rich as we think they are, which can lead to poor body (and hair development:

Protein is important for the growth of strong hair among many other things. When people consume enough calories in their diet, protein deficiency is essential nonexistent. Nearly all foods contain protein including grains, beans, legumes (pea and lentils), nuts, seeds and vegetables. Therefore, if you are eating sufficient qualities of these foods, protein should not be a concern. The challenge however is eating a variety of these foods in order to get all of the essential amino acids required for proper body development. I recently incorporated quinoa into my diet as it is one of the best plant based sources of protein because it contains all the essential amino acids required for healthy growth and development. Quinoa is also a great source of B vitamins, potassium, riboflavin, zinc, copper, and manganese, magnesium, iron and vitamin E.

Iron Plant-based iron has always been considered to be an inferior source of iron, which means vegetarians and vegans must pay a bit more attention to their diets to ensure proper intake. While heme iron (iron from animal sources) gets absorbed into the body at the rate of 25%-35% of the intake, non-heme is absorbed only at the rate of 2%-10%. The main reason for the low absorption rate is the presence of substances that bind with it and carry it outside the body. Therefore, iron from plant sources is best absorbed by the body when it is taken with vitamin C rich foods or drinks. Vegetables and fruits high in vitamin C include red and green bell peppers, broccoli, tomatoes, potatoes, spinach, mustard greens and kale, citrus fruitsberries, papaya, cantaloupe and grapefruit. It is important for vegetarian and vegans to include a source of vitamin C with every meal. Nutrition specialist also recommend soaking and sprouting of beans, grains and seeds to enhance absorption of iron from these sources.

Foods high in iron include: dried apricots, avocados, currants, raisins, dates, figs and prunes, potatoes with their skin, bok choy, spinach, kale, watercress, broccoli, savoy cabbage, peas, turnip greens, mung bean sprouts, tomato juice, aked beans, adzuki beans, black beans, chick peas (garbanzo beans), kidney beans, lima beans, navy beans, pinto beans, whole grain bread or brown rice, black treacle, fortified breads, cereals and grains. Even though whole grains and legumes are poor sources of iron, taking them with vitamin C rich foods will help in increased assimilation of iron from these sources.

Healthy hair need optimal amounts of all nutrients. Be sure you're getting plenty of whole foods; they're the best source of vitamins, minerals and amino acids. If you're having trouble eating enough food, take a multi vitamin-mineral supplement. Vegan in particular should include vitamin B12 and vitamin D and omega-3 supplements as these are harder to get through their diet.

*Please note: I am not a licensed dietitian, therefore the information I am providing is not based on my "medical experience". This is simply information I have gathered from various books and sources on the internet for my personal use. I do not recommend anyone make changes to their diet without first discussing it with their doctor.

HHG!