Saturday, April 10, 2010

Building a Basic Regimen

When I first started my hair journey I was really struggling to figure out this "healthy hair thing". I didn't know what to do, what products to use or even how often to use these products to transform my hair. Truth be told I am still trying to figure all this stuff out. Over time I have been able to gather the following information that I thought might be helpful as you start your journey. It actually isn't too hard, the trick is:

1) Finding the right products for your hair type (3c, 4a, 4b or LOIS)
2) Current hair condition (high, normal, low porosity)
3) Current hair needs (dry, breakage, etc)

Then if that doesn't seem tricky enough, you also must figure how best to use these products for your hair (e.g. add oils, weekly vs bi-weekly, etc--the manufacturer's directions should be a start, but in some cases still need tweaking). In any regimen you should always have the following products:

1 Gentle/Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used at least 1/week* depending on your schedule and hair needs. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. Your shampoo should leave your hair detangled and soft, not stripped. Here are some examples:

Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
Abba Pure Color Protect Shampoo
Abba Pure Basic Shampoo
Alba Botanica Coconut Milk Extra Enrich Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Gardenia Hydrating Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Mango Moisturizing Hair Wash
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Island Naturals Replenishing Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Extra Moisturizing Olive and Grapeseed Shampoo
Avalon Organics Nourishing Lavender Shampoo
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Tea Tree Mint Treatment Shampoo
Aveda Scalp Benefits Balancing Shampoo
Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Bee Mine Peppermint & Tea Tree Nourishing Shampoo
Burt's Bee Color Keeper Green Tea & Fennel seed Shampoo
Burt's Bee More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo 
Cream of Nature (red and green label)
Design Essentials Moisture Retention Shampoo
Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo
Giovanni 50:50 Balance Shampoo
Jane Carter Solution Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo
Jason Natural Plumeria & Sea Kelp Shampoo
Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Organix Smoothing Shea Butter Shampoo
Organix Hydrating Tea Tree Mint Shampoo
Oyin Grand Poo Bar
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Vatika Conditioning shampoo

*Some women choose to wash their hair once every 2 weeks or once a month vs once a week with some success. In these cases these women have chosen to co-wash in between shampoo sessions to keep the scalp clean. They then use shampoo to remove the build up (or "clarify") when needed. I have found that I must wash 1x week for my hair/scalp to feel its best.

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1x/month*. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean after using this product. Here are some examples:

Alba Botanica Daily Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Carol's Daughter Rosemary Mint Purifying Shampoo
Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
Hydratherma Naturals Herbal / Amino Clarifying Shampoo
Ion Clarifying Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo
Organic Root Stimulator Uplifting Shampoo
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo
Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Conditioner

*If you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. or use products with silicones you may want to use this more often but no more than 2x/month. I use a clarifying shampoo as needed.

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner*. You should follow up with one of these conditioners after* every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I have found deep conditioning my hair for 30 mins with heat (hooded dryer) has worked best for my hair. Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength and moisture based conditioner softens and replenishes dry hair. Protein conditioners should be used when your hair feels mushy, spongy and limp. In some cases a protein conditioner needs to be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair.

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair.

Here are some examples of moisture based conditioners:
KeraCare Humecto
Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner
AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Rosa Mosqueta Conditioner
Aussie Moist Conditioner
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Conditioner
Avalon Organics Lavender Nourishing Conditioner
Aveda Color Conserve Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturizing Conditioner
Bee Mine Bee-U-Ti-Ful Deep Conditioner
Biolage Hydratherapie Conditioning Balm
Burt's Bee Super Shiny Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Conditioner
Carol's Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie
Creme of Nature Moisture Extreme Conditioner
Dove Advance Care Sheer MoistureConditioner
Dove Moisture Rich Color Conditioner
Dove Damage Therapy Daily Moisture Treatment
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Elasta QP DPR-11 Deep Penetrating Remoisturizer
Elucence Moisture Balance Conditioner
Frederick Fekkai's Shea Butter Moisturizing Conditioner
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Ion Color Defense Hydrating Moisture Treatment
Jane Carter Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner
Joico Moisture Recovery Conditioner
Joico Moisture Intense Treatment Extra Conditioning Conditioner
Kenra Deep Penetrating Moisturizing Conditioner
KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner
KeraCare Moisturizing Conditioner for Color Treated Hair
Keratease Nutritive Masquintense Nourishing Treatment
Lustrasilk Shea Butter and Mango Cholesterol
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Hydrafuse Moisturizing Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse Moisturizing Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Nexxus Humectress
Oyin Honey Hemp Conditioner
Pantene Relaxed & Natural Breakage Defence Mask
Paul Mitchell Super Charged Moisturizer
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner  (currently using)
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment

Here are some examples of protein based conditioners:
light = can be used 1-2x/week**
medium = 1-2x/month
medium-heavy = 4 weeks
heavy = every 6+ weeks or as needed

Aubrey Organics GPB (light)
Aveda Damage Remedy Conditioner (light)
Africa's Best Organics Hair Mayonnaise (light)
Creme of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor (light)
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner (light)
Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum (light)
Homemade Avocado Mask (light)
Homemade Banana Mask (light)
Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus, Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment (light)
Joico K-Pak Reconstructor Conditioner (light)
Lekair Cholesterol Plus (light)
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (light)
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner (light)
Neutrogena Triple  Moisture Recovery Mask (light)
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner (light)
Organique Amla & Holy Basil Conditioner (light)
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise (light)

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor (medium)
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Extreme Protein Treatment (medium)
LeKair Cholesterol Plus Strengthening Conditioning Cream (medium)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (medium)
Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner (medium)
Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment (medium)
Queen Helene Cholesterol Hair Conditioning Cream (medium)

Organic Roots Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise Treatment for Damage Hair (medium-heavy)
Henna (medium-heavy)

Affirm 5 in1 Reconstructor (heavy)
Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment (heavy)
Dudley's DRC 28 Hair Treatment and Fortifier (heavy)
Elucence Extended Moisture Repair Treatment (heavy)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (heavy)
Nexxus Emergencee (heavy)
Nexxus Keraphix Restroative Strengthening Conditioner (heavy)
Mizani Kerafuse Intensive Strengthening Treatment (heavy)

*Some women choose to DC before washing their hair, as they feel the hair absorbs more of the conditioner when dry. They then follow up with a regular moisturizing shampoo or co-wash.

**Depending on your current hair structure/chemistry and current condition (e.g. damage, low porosity) even mild protein conditioners may be too much to use weekly. Always assess your hair condition regularly.

1 Leave-in conditioner*. This should be used after washing the hair and remain in the hair as it dries.

Here are some examples of moisture based leave-in conditioners:

Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In 
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 
Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based leave-in conditioners:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer
Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in
Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter
Giovanni Direct Leave In
Hydratherma Naturals Protein Balance Leave-In Conditioning Treatment
Infusium 23 Original
Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In
Kenra Daily Defense Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (can double as conditioner and leave-in)
Profectiv Break Free Leave In
Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment
Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment
Salerm 21
Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk 
Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist

*Some women use more than one leave in conditioner (e.g. protein based and moisture) with some success.

1 Water Based Daily Moisturizers
 Use daily to hydrate the hair. It can be used 1-2x/day depending on your hair needs. Due to the texture and structure of my hair I used this 1x/day other day depending on the hair style I am wearing and the moisturizer/styler I used.

Here are some examples of moisture based moisturizers:

Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion  (currently using)
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix  (currently using)
Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based moisturizers:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer
Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in
Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter
Infusium 23 Original
Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In
Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion
Profectiv Break Free Leave In
Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment
Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment
Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk   (currently using)
Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist   (currently using)

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Apply by adding a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up.Oils can also be added to conditioners and used as a pre-poo.

Here are some examples:

Avocado Oil  (currently using in DC)
Argan Oil (currently using as in DC)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil (currently using in DC)
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter
Jojoba Oil (currently using on scalp)
Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on scalp and Castor in leave in)
Macadamia Nut Oil 
Safflower Oil

Basic Regimen to Get You Started!


You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
1 Leave-in Conditioner
1 Daily Moisturizer
1 Natural Oil

Additional items:
Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet
  • Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing shampoo 1-2x/week (Preferably sulfate free)
  • Use a moisturizing deep conditioner with heat after every shampoo
  • Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
  • Use a water-based moisturizer 1-2x/day then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
  • Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
  • Relax no sooner than 8 weeks
  • Do a protein treatment when needed (whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
  • Trim when needed
  • Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
  • Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.
That's it!! Remember to take a step back and re-evaluate your hair and your methods. LISTEN to your hair. It will tell you when something is not working well for you (i.e. dryness, breakage etc.) Give your hair time to get adjusted. It's all about trial and error until you realize what your hair likes, then you'll see improvement.

Happy Hair Growing!!

Source (Thanks SunShyne!)
*The Science of Black Hair 

© copyright 2009-2015; All rights reserved ManeDiva

15 comments:

  1. I'm printing this out as I type this.... I really appreciate all your effort. This is clear and precise. I'm emailing your page link to my entire address book. Do you have a facebook page with all this info available?
    Thanks for all your effort. Many blessings to you and yours.

    Kym
    Lancaster, TX.

    ReplyDelete
  2. @Kym Thanks you for the well wishes and stopping by "Diva!". I do have a FB page, but this information is not available there as it a personal FB profile. Most of the info I post here is information I have found online or in books, so I can not take too much credit. If there is more information that you need beyond what is on my blog let me know and I will see what I can do to help by posting the info or sending you a link where you can get more information.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Just a question and yes it is very precise, thanks and I appreciate listings of stuff in categories. Just a few quewstions taht I hope you will answer. Really a deep conditioning treatment daily isn't too much?

    2. And when do you put the water-based moisturizer in, after the leave in or before?

    3) To get your right, this would be the daily regimen. . . 1) deep condition, 2) coo-wash 3)leave in 4)water moisturizer

    ReplyDelete
  4. @ Andrea H thanks for stopping by Diva! I actually responded to the e-mail you sent me answering this question, but I will post it here as well to avoid any confusion with other viewers/followers. In this post I did not say you should DC daily, but DC after every wash (meaning shampoo), assuming you are shampooing your hair once a week. As you know, shampoo can cause damage to the hair, stripping it of oils. DC replenishes these oils. I would not recommend DC every day as you run the risk of over conditioning, which can lead to breakage. Any hair journey requires you have a very intimate relationship with your hair as your hair will tell you what it needs. Some women co-wash daily (which is different from DC), some once a week, some none at all. Protein DC should be used as needed, which again varies from head to head. Next, your leave in would be applied after you've washed or co-washed your hair; water based moisturizer daily. I hope that helps, but please e-mail me if you need more clarification. Also I would recommend you research a few other regimens. Document the similarities across these regimens, which will send you in the right direction for building your own.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi there

    I'm a little confused on leave in moisturizer, there are water based and protein, which do I need?

    Also, there is leave in conditioner after shampooing, does it matter if it's water or protein based or something.

    And, the water bases moisturizers seem to contain oils so I'm not getting the point that oil is to be applied to lock in.

    By the way, can't seem to send an email to your gmail.
    Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thanks for your posting, this really helped. I'm from the Caribbean. My hair is relatively thick and grows really fast. Its past shoulder length now but its very brittle and breaks easily so I trim a lot. I have decided to start a healthy hair regimen, but I did not know where to start. I currently use Design Essential moisture shampoo, express moisture conditioner, 6N1 reconstructer, and the HCO leave in conditioner. I want to add a daily moisturizer and sealer as well as a moisture treatment. Your lists really helped me narrow things down. Do you have any suggestions for me? I would appreciate it. thanks for the help again.

    Jasmine
    Barbados W.I

    ReplyDelete
  7. @ Anonymous the type of leave in you will need will depend on your hair. Some women use a protein-based leave in regularly without issue, while some women avoid it like the plague. The reason I listed both types is because some people are quite confused when it comes to protein vs. moisture based conditioners and leave ins. As a result, they may over use one type of product. I use to make this mistake and ended up using too much protein on my hair, which led to protein overload and breakage. My hair is very protein sensitive so now I use a light protein leave in (e.g. Giovanni) and a moisture based daily moisturizer for my M&S. The reason I do this is to give my hair a touch of protein for added strength, but not too much (e.g. such as a protein DC) because this would be to much for my fine texture. Your hair will tell you what you need. If it feels mushy, limp and spongy before jumping to a protein DC try a light protein leave in first to see if that remedies the issue. If not, then go up a level.

    @ Jasmine From the list I posted I have tried all three of the moisturizing products (highlighted in pink) and all of the oils listed. My favorite was Neurogena Triple Moisture, but I no longer use this moisturizer because I am trying to use all natural products on my relaxed hair now. Many women have had success with Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship and Wave Nouveau, which are inexpensive and fairly easy to find. As for the oils, some are thicker/thinner in consistency and work better as sealants than others depending on your hair texture. Experiment with one or two to see which ones you like best. I have fine texture, but find Jamaican Black Castor Oil works well for me in the winter if I use just a touch. In the summer I use Argan or Jojoba oil.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Great info! This is info that you wish your beautician would give you or go by but they don't. Its great that this is available for someone trying to figure their hair out and wanting to grow it out natural and keep it that way for life without getting frustrated and resorting to wearing wigs or shaving it off.

    If you can please update your shampoos with a non-sulfate list

    ReplyDelete
  9. @Judith, sorry for the late reply. Most, if not 80% of the shampoos listed here are sodium/ammonium lauryl sulfate free. I would recommend that you browse through the list to see if there is a product you would like to try or that has been recommended by someone you know, and research the ingredients before you buy it. A quick google search can give you a detailed list of the products ingredients. That is how I've chosen all of my products. If there is an ingredient I don't recognize, I research that ingredient as well to determine if it is safe or not. Best of luck on your journey!

    ReplyDelete
  10. I just wanted to say thank you. I'm new to this literally 2 months since my last relaxer & this list is so helpful I am trying to make my transition as smooth as possible especially since I'm trying to avoid the big chop!

    ReplyDelete
  11. This was very giving of you to take the time and share all the research that you have put into this list. Most people would not sacrifice the time. God Bless You!

    ReplyDelete
  12. I feel like you put some much info at my fingertips that its like a lightbulb moment. Thank you! I am trying to try things myself. This helps soo much.

    ReplyDelete
  13. @TheLady I hope the info helps you on your journey :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. @ Anonymous I am fully natural now (1 year, 8 months). It was a toss up as I struggled with the decision, but I am happy I did it.

    ReplyDelete

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.