Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Knowledge is Beautiful!

It goes without saying that I have been feeling very frustrated and depressed with the state of my hairSmiley. So much so that I have decided to do something about it. Now, anyone that knows me knows that when I put my mind to something I won't quit until I have accomplished what I have set out to do. So with that in mind, I have been searching high and low for information regarding hair care, obtaining moisture-protein balance and the science of hair structure. Whoa! There is a lot out there, which can be both exciting and overwhelming. What struck me the most was the fact that there are so few products that actually benefit our hair, which frankly pisses me off. Now I don't want to turn this into a huge rant about the use of harsh chemicals on the hair, because who am I kidding? I relax my hair!* As far as chemicals go it doesn't get any harsher than that. This isn't even really about commercial vs. natural products. It's about something else...I urge you to read on.

In an effort to build a solid regimen I have been pouring over products and reading labels to get a better handle of protein vs. moisture based products--remember I've been having an issue with protein overload. As a result, I currently have some brittle dry hair that is breaking (nothing too serious, but enough for me to take notice). I am hoping to correct that. Anyway, as I am reading through these labels I keep coming across some familiar ingredients and a few that I was not aware of . I believe you should always know what you are putting in your body and the same goes for what you are putting on your hair (and inevitably your scalp). So, I've been doing my research. 

As I stated earlier, this isn't so much an issue about chemical laden products vs. natural product as it is the fact that there are companies out there totting so called "high end" ingredients at ridiculous prices when they are loaded with a lot of synthetic or just plain cheap crap--some of which is very harmful to our bodies or create more issues for our hairSmiley! Now there are many women out there that have beautiful hair and they use these products, so clearly they can have a positive effect on the hair--I don't doubt it. My issue is that I don't get why I am paying $24.00 for an "all natural shea butter" hair lotion when it is loaded with palm oil, which is natural yes, but far from effective on the hair as, let's see--actual shea nut butter (e.g. Komaza Shea Butter Lotion)! As a result, I will have to work that much harder to counter some of the effects of these synthetic or cheaper ingredients with other moisturizers just to maintain the moisture levels in my hair. 

Examining these products made me question: would I have to use as much product on my hair, for example a daily moisturizer 2 times a day if I wasn't using a product that blocked moisture and coated my hair in the first place? I truly believe that there are natural products that I can use that will benefit my hair as well as if not betters than these  cosmetic products and I am determined to prove it. I mean the very challenge I am doing right now (e.g. EVCO Challenge) has shown to benefit the hair in such a way that some women no longer have to do protein treatments or use commercial products. You can't tell me that with patience and diligence I can't find (or even create---oh yes!) healthier and equally effective products. I am determined to find out.

Knowledge is power (or can be beautiful in the case of hair)! HHG!!

Sunday, January 3, 2010

EVCO Challenge: Week One

Day 1-7 (Jan 3-9, 2010)
So  I completed my first overnight EVCO pre-poo treatment Saturday night. Hmmm....I will say my hair felt moisturized and little mushy (as strange as that sounds) in the morning. After shampooing with CON and deep conditioning with AOHR w/ oils for 45 min (30 w/ heat; 15 without--I was too lazy to get up) it felt moisturized and stronger, but not as strong as I would have liked. That may have more to do with my whole protein-moisture imbalance, but I will continue to work on that.

My hair felts good over the next few days after treatment, and it still felt moisturized up to the 5 day. Scalps was a little itchy here and there, but it was tolerable. I did not oil my scalp everyday, but did every other day, which helped. I sealed with EVCO, which made my hair feel greasy--I am probably using way too much. I will need to improve on that.

The Hair Repair Balancing Act

If you've been keeping up with my progress thus far you will know that I have really been struggling to find the right moisture-protein balance for my hair to no avail. Up to this point I have been killing my hair with protein overload, largely because I was not very knowledgeable about protein based products. I mean I had some knowledge of reconstructors and protein deep conditioners, but I really was lost when it came to most basic daily products (e.g. leave ins, "moisturizers"). As a result, I have been piling on the protein turning my hair into a dry, crinkly, mess!

So I have done my research and I think I may be able to get a handle on this thing. I have to send a shout out to Sunshyne for posting such an extensive list of hair products. The time and effort she put into generating that list has helped me out immensely. Along with a few websites I have come across I have been able to create another hair regimen to see where that takes me...fingers crossed.

Now if I need to make this even more difficult, I am really trying to reach an all natural hair product regimen...but I will take this one step at a time.

For your own reference I have included a few examples of hair products you can try to create your own regimen (this is by no means extensive, and really only include the products I am aware of). Remember, keep it simple and make sure you have the basics "ingredients" to get you started: moisturizing shampoo, clarifying shampoo, 2* deep conditioners** (moisture and protein), leave in conditioner, daily moisturizer (depending on the leave in you choose it may be able to double up and your daily moisturizer instead of buying a separate one), natural oil for sealing. With this in place you should be on your way!

Moisturizing Shampoo:
Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo 
Creme of Nature Shampoo 
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo
Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Jason Sea Kelp Shampoo
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Hair One Cleansing Conditioner
Wen Cleansing Conditioner
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)

Clarifying Shampoo :
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo
Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos
Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo
Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo
Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (currently using)

Moisturizing Conditioners: 
Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner
AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Conditioner 
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Conditioner 
Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner
Elasta QP DPR-11
Elucence Moisture Balance conditioner
KeraCare Humecto
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse
Mizani Hydrafuse
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment
Joico Moisture Recovery
Nexxus Humectress
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Lustrasilks Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus 
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (currently using)

Protein Conditioners:
(can be used 1x/week or bi-weekly):
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner
Creme Of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor
Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner
Lekair Cholesterol Plus
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner
Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum
Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor 
Creme of Nature Reconstructor
Aubrey Organics GPB 
Egg mixed with light conditioner

(can be used 1-2x/month):
Joico K-Pak Reconstructor
Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner
Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner
Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment
Natural Henna (currently using)

(should not be used any sooner than every 6 weeks):
Vitale Reconstructor
Affirm 5in1 Reconstructor
Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment 
Nexxus Emergencee
Nexxus Keraphix
Komaza Protein Hair Strengthener
Mizani Kerafuse 

Leave in Conditioner:
Moisture based:
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Nexxus Humectress
SCurl No Drip Activator
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 
  
Protein based:
Nexxus Headress Weightless Leave-In Conditioner
Infusium 23 Original
Profectiv Breakfree Moisturizer 
Profectiv Megagrowth Moisturizer 
Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructerizer
Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in 
Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Redken Anti-Snap Leave-in
Chi Keratin Mist
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Daily Moisturizers:
(Use 1-2x/day to hydrate the hair): 
Moisture based:
S-Curl No Drip Activator
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Creme
Hollywood beauty Carrot Oil
ORS Olive Oil
ORS Carrot Oil 
Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion  
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix (currently using)

Protein based:
Cantu Shea butter,
Elasta QP Mango Butter
Profective Healthy Ends 
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk 
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Natural Oil:
Avocado Oil (currently using in DC)
Argan Oil (currently using in DC)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil  (currently using in DC)
Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter
Jojoba Oil  (currently using on my scalp)
Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on my scalp and Castor Oil in my DC) 
Macadamia Nut Oil 
Safflower Oil

Now just from reviewing this list and what I am and was currently using I can clearly see where I went wrong. For starters, I never clarify, I don't moisturize on a daily basis and as I stated above, I am using way too much protein. I suggest that if you are also struggling to meet your hair goals you also review the list, check off what you are doing or aren't doing and shape it up. Hope that helps you in your effort to reach your hair goals.

Happy hair growth!
                                 






*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair. 

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Does Coconut Oil Equal Longer, Stronger, Beautiful Hair?

As many of you know I have joined a EVCO Challenge, and I am so excited, but I am little leery about the promises of "shiny, bouncy, beautiful hair" as I didn't see the same benefits as others did with the JBCO Challenge.

Now if I follow that rules of the challenge correctly I am expected to see:
  • Stronger hair
  • Shinier hair and softer new growth
  • Less breakage and split ends
  • Less shedding
  • My hair will look and feel a lot healthier
  • More length retention 
  • A reduced need to use products such as protein treatments and commercial deep conditioners (I'm all about that!)
Apparently, for me to achieve this I simply need to apply EVCO once a week as a deep conditioner.

What I'll be doing:
I plan to apply warm EVCO to my scalp (blended with JBCO, Jojoba and my special EO blend) and plain EVCO to dry hair overnight and then shampoo, condition and style as usual. 

Challenge starts: Jan 2, 2010
Challenge ends: March 2, 2010

We'll see what happens!