Sunday, March 28, 2010

Helpful Acronyms and Definitions

 Here are a few acronyms and definitions to make it easier to understand and communicate with other hair divas on the site or elsewhere. 


Acronyms:

EL – Ear Length
NL – Neck Length
SL - Shoulder Length
APL – Arm Pit Length
BSL – Bra Strap Length
BSB - Below Shoulder Blade
MBL – Mid Back Length
WSL – Waist Length Hair
NG – New Growth
BC – Big Chop
DC – Deep Condition
NTM – Neutrogena Triple Moisture
MNT - Mane N Tail
CW- Conditioner Wash
CWC - Conditioner, Wash, Conditioner
ACV – Apple Cider Vinegar
CON – Creme of Nature
BSS – Beauty Supply Store
PJ – Product Junkie
Slip – When the comb easily glides through the hair
IMO – In My Opinion
HHG – Happy Hair Growing
BHM – Black Hair Media
LHCF – Long Hair Care Forum
EVOO - Extra Virgin Olive Oil
EVCO – Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
JBCO - Jamaican Black Castor Oil
DIY – Do It Yourself
HTH - Hope This Helps
ETA - Edited To Add
TIA - Thanks In Advance
ITA - I Totally Agree
IA - I Agree
SMH - Shakes My Head
BTW - By The Way
HE - Herbal Essences
HE LTR Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship
MMF - Mizani Moisturefuse.
SE MS MT Silk Elements Mega Silk Moisturizing Treatment
SE MC Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol
MT - Mega Tek
MN - Miconazole Nitrate
EO - Essential Oil
SAA - Silk Amino Acid
S&D - Search & Destory (Method for Triming off Spilt Ends)
ALS - Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Cones - Silicones
AOHSR - Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner
AOGPB - Aubrey Organics GPB Conditioner
Bumping - When you want to push/bump your topic to the top so that others can respond. It is more visible so that others can see it.

Definitions:

Pre-poo – Preparing your hair prior to shampooing. You do this by adding a moisturizing conditioner or natural oils into the hair . You can do this overnight or 30-40mins before you shampoo. This helps keep the moisture in your hair after you shampoo or clarify. Prepoo-ing helps keep that moisture in.

Co-washing - Washing your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo. This helps to put moisture back in the hair without stripping the hair of its natural oils.

Protective Styling – Wearing your hair up in a style that doesn't put strain on your edges/nape and keeps your ends off of your back & protected from outside elements i.e Buns, Clips, Pony Tails etc.

Low Manipulation - Leave your hair alone! So barely manipulating your hair. The less manipulation the better which leads to less shedding and breakage which eventually leads to healthier hair. For example, Buns, Wash n Go's, Twist outs, Braids, Braid outs, Afro's etc.

Baggying – Putting on your moisturizer and then applying a plastic bag over the hair to trap the moisture in. You can either baggy your ends with a small sandwich bag or you can full head baggy with a plastic shower cap. This is very helpful treatment for those with dry damaged hair and dry ends. Check out my post on The Truth About Baggying.

Deep conditioning – Deep conditioning is a nice treat for those with chemical relaxers, colored, dry, brittle, damaged hair. Deep conditioning with a conditioner specifically formulated for conditions similar to the ones already listed will help revive dull lifeless hair thus giving it more strength, elasticity, moisture, softness, and shine. It is a really good way of replenishing lost moisture leaving it less prone to breakage. It's good to deep condition at least 1x per week.

Moisturizing – Applying a moisture based product to dry hair without washing it out. You can use a water-based or cream based moisturizer 1-2x per day. This helps to prevent breakage and increase elasticity in the hair.

Sealing – Using a natural oil to lock in the moisture after you've moisturized the hair i.e. Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Safflower Oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil. By using an oil over the moisturizer will allow your hair to stay moisturized longer.

Leave-in Conditioner – A quick way of adding moisture back into the hair after shampooing/conditioning. It helps to detangle the hair leaving it soft and manageable. Most leave-ins provide thermal protection for styling afterward.

Braid-Out – Braiding your hair in sections while hair is still damp after deep conditioning/co-washing. Air dry the braids. Once dry,unravel the braids and style. You can wear this style up to 3-4 days with little to no touch ups.

Stretching – Prolonging the time between relaxers. Instead of relaxing at 6 wks, relax every 8, 10, 12 wks.

Humectants – Attract and retain moisture from the air i.e Glycerin, Honey, Sorbitol, Propylene Glycol.

Line of Demarcation - Where the natural hair and relaxed hair meet. This location can be very delicate so be very gentle when stretching.

Hair Type

2a, 2b, 2c
Loose curls

3a, 3b, 3c
Thicker, coily curls. Alicia Keys and Tracee Ellis Ross fall into this category.

4a, 4b
Kinky, coily hair. 4b is the thickest. Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill fall into this category.

STRAIGHT HAIR – Straight hair is classified as a 1. There is absolutely no curl pattern in the hair. It is completely straight. Straight hair is very sleek and shiny because there is no curl pattern, which allows the light to reflect off of the hair giving it a shiny finish. Some straight hair that appears dull is usually because it is damaged. Proper care is always necessary if you want beautiful healthy hair.

WAVY HAIR – Wavy hair is classified as a 2. Type 2 hair can be categorized as 2A/2B or 2C. Basically, 2A hair is fine, while 2B hair is medium. 2C hair is thick and coarse with a frizzier look. If you have type 2 hair, you have a wide variety of styles available to you. You can straighten the hair for a sleek look, or add tighter curls for a different look. The versatility can make the hairs texture look totally different. This hair type has a natural “S” curl pattern as it hangs.

MEDIUM CURLY HAIR – Type 3 hair has a tighter curl pattern. It can be categorized at 3A/3B and 3C hair. 3A hair types have a looser curl pattern, while type 3B hair has a tighter curl pattern and type 3C hair has a tightly curly look and may look slightly kinky. This type of hair has a lot of body and can be styled in many different styles. When wet, type 3 hair easily absorbs the water and shrinks quite a bit. But it is not as shiny as straight hair because the hair cannot reflect the light as easily. Type 3 hair is very springy. If you pull on it, it bounces back into its original curly state. This type of hair can sometimes be a challenge to straighten, especially 3C hair. However, if you blow-dry and use a hot comb or straightener the hair will have a smoother sleeker finish.

KINKY COILY HAIR – Tightly coiled type 4 hair is a lot kinkier than the type 2 and 3 hair types. Although this hair type is much coarser and appears thicker than other curly hair, it is actually quite fine. Type 4A hair has an “S” pattern to it, while type 4B/C hair is more wiry with a zig-zag pattern. Type 4 hair is hard to grow since it has fewer cuticle layers than the other hair types. Once brushed or combed it’s common for hair to break, leaving it shorter and easily susceptible to damage. (Note: Never brush dry curly hair as this creates frizz and can lead to breakage). An easy way to rid yourself of this damage is through proper conditioning, hot oil treatments and not putting tension on the hair daily with pony tails or styles that pull on the hair and add tension.Type 4 hair is extremely versatile and holds well on it’s own without the aid of styling products. Some common styles of this hair type are curly fro’s, afro puffs, two-strand twists, braids, straightening, cornrows and so much more.

The letters a, b and c after the number tell you how thick the hair strand is. One would think the thicker the strand the less fragile the hair. But, actually type 4c hair can be the most fragile because of the curl pattern and the dryness of the hair. Type 4c hair needs to be moisturized regularly & treated gently.

The Cuticle - The cuticle is the thinnest layer. It is transparent and consists of overlapping scale-like cells. It protects the cortex from chemicals.

Dusting - A very light trim. Cutting only 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. Good idea if you don't want a full blown trim.

Shedding - Strands of hair with white bulbs on the root. 

Breakage - Broken pieces of hair without the white bulb. This can be caused by too much moisture or protein. It can also be the cause of poor hair care.

Carrier oil - Known as base oil or vegetable oil, is used to dilute essential oils i.e. Coconut Oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil etc. These oils can also be used to seal/trap moisture in the hair.

Clarifying - Clarifying your hair is always a good idea to remove the build-ups some products leave on your hair which can make your hair dull and lifeless. Clarifying can remove the chlorine swimmers get on their hair. A Simple clarifier i.e. Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda with 2 teaspoons shampoo. Lather, wait 5 minutes, rinse and condition. OR you can use 2 tsp of Apple Cider Vinegar mixed into 2 cups of warm water, pour it on your hair, wait 2-3mins, rinse and condition.

Hair Serum - Hair serum makes the hair shiner and does not allow the hair to entangle. It protects the hair from the damages done by over exposure to sun and hair styling products.

Hair serum forms a thin protective layer on the hair strands. It returns the moisture lost due to exposure to sun, heat generated from the hair styling gadgets. It is primarily used for dry and frizzy hair, which breaks easily, or hairs that have under gone excessive chemical treatments like perming, coloring.

Relaxing Bone Straight - Allowing the relaxer to "relax" the hair to it's fullest potential, making sure the hair strands are as straight as possible.

Relaxing Straight
- Allowing the hair to get straight. But not bone straight.


Texturizing
/Texlaxed - Loosening the curl pattern slightly, with no straightness at all. Basically under processed on purpose. Gives your hair some thickness. 

Over-lapping
- Applying relaxer to already relaxed hair instead of just focusing on the new growth.


Over-processed
- Leaving the relaxer on too long, resulting in a bone straight/limp appearance.


Under-processed
- Waves, curls and kinks are still present in the hair after a relaxer. The relaxer did not process/penetrate the hair enough.

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