Mane Diva

Sunday, January 3, 2010

The Hair Repair Balancing Act

If you've been keeping up with my progress thus far you will know that I have really been struggling to find the right moisture-protein balance for my hair to no avail. Up to this point I have been killing my hair with protein overload, largely because I was not very knowledgeable about protein based products. I mean I had some knowledge of reconstructors and protein deep conditioners, but I really was lost when it came to most basic daily products (e.g. leave ins, "moisturizers"). As a result, I have been piling on the protein turning my hair into a dry, crinkly, mess!

So I have done my research and I think I may be able to get a handle on this thing. I have to send a shout out to Sunshyne for posting such an extensive list of hair products. The time and effort she put into generating that list has helped me out immensely. Along with a few websites I have come across I have been able to create another hair regimen to see where that takes me...fingers crossed.

Now if I need to make this even more difficult, I am really trying to reach an all natural hair product regimen...but I will take this one step at a time.

For your own reference I have included a few examples of hair products you can try to create your own regimen (this is by no means extensive, and really only include the products I am aware of). Remember, keep it simple and make sure you have the basics "ingredients" to get you started: moisturizing shampoo, clarifying shampoo, 2* deep conditioners** (moisture and protein), leave in conditioner, daily moisturizer (depending on the leave in you choose it may be able to double up and your daily moisturizer instead of buying a separate one), natural oil for sealing. With this in place you should be on your way!

Moisturizing Shampoo:

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo

Creme of Nature Shampoo

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Jason Sea Kelp Shampoo
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Hair One Cleansing Conditioner
Wen Cleansing Conditioner
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)

Clarifying Shampoo :
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (currently using)

Moisturizing Conditioners:

Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner

AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Conditioner

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Conditioner

Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner

Elasta QP DPR-11

Elucence Moisture Balance conditioner

KeraCare Humecto
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse

Mizani Hydrafuse
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment
Joico Moisture Recovery
Nexxus Humectress
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Lustrasilks Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (currently using)

Protein Conditioners:

(can be used 1x/week or bi-weekly):
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner

Creme Of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor

Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

Lekair Cholesterol Plus
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner

Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor

Creme of Nature Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics GPB

Egg mixed with light conditioner

(can be used 1-2x/month):

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor

Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner

Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner

Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment
Natural Henna (currently using)

(should not be used any sooner than every 6 weeks):

Vitale Reconstructor

Affirm 5in1 Reconstructor

Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment

Nexxus Emergencee

Nexxus Keraphix
Komaza Protein Hair Strengthener
Mizani Kerafuse

Leave in Conditioner:
Moisture based:
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Nexxus Humectress
SCurl No Drip Activator
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix

Protein based:
Nexxus Headress Weightless Leave-In Conditioner
Infusium 23 Original

Profectiv Breakfree Moisturizer

Profectiv Megagrowth Moisturizer

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructerizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme

Redken Anti-Snap Leave-in

Chi Keratin Mist

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist

Daily Moisturizers:

(Use 1-2x/day to hydrate the hair):

Moisture based:

S-Curl No Drip Activator

Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Creme
Hollywood beauty Carrot Oil

ORS Olive Oil

ORS Carrot Oil

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix (currently using)

Protein based:

Cantu Shea butter,

Elasta QP Mango Butter

Profective Healthy Ends

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist

Natural Oil:

Avocado Oil (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil (currently using on my scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on my scalp and Castor Oil in my DC)
Macadamia Nut Oil

Safflower Oil

Now just from reviewing this list and what I am and was currently using I can clearly see where I went wrong. For starters, I never clarify, I don't moisturize on a daily basis and as I stated above, I am using way too much protein. I suggest that if you are also struggling to meet your hair goals you also review the list, check off what you are doing or aren't doing and shape it up. Hope that helps you in your effort to reach your hair goals.

Happy hair growth!

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money. I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Does Coconut Oil Equal Longer, Stronger, Beautiful Hair?

As many of you know I have joined a EVCO Challenge, and I am so excited, but I am little leery about the promises of "shiny, bouncy, beautiful hair" as I didn't see the same benefits as others did with the JBCO Challenge.

Now if I follow that rules of the challenge correctly I am expected to see:

Stronger hair
Shinier hair and softer new growth
Less breakage and split ends
Less shedding
My hair will look and feel a lot healthier
More length retention
A reduced need to use products such as protein treatments and commercial deep conditioners (I'm all about that!)

Apparently, for me to achieve this I simply need to apply EVCO once a week as a deep conditioner.

What I'll be doing:
I plan to apply warm EVCO to my scalp (blended with JBCO, Jojoba and my special EO blend) and plain EVCO to dry hair overnight and then shampoo, condition and style as usual.

Challenge starts: Jan 2, 2010
Challenge ends: March 2, 2010

We'll see what happens!

How to use EVCO for Hair Moisturizing and Deep Conditioning (Dry and Wet Method)

So as you know I have joined an EVCO Challenge. Although I will be following the rules of the challenge (modified slightly), I've provided two options for applying this deep conditioning treatment for others that may want to participate. I'm providing this because some have found that deep conditioning with EVCO works better on wet hair than dry hair and visa versa. From what I've read either one will give you great results*, but depending on your hair texture and volume you may find that you like the results of one method better than another (I will actually be trying two methods that I will post separately to see which one suits my hair best).

Before beginning this treatment, you'll need a couple of items to prepare. You'll also need at least one hour* to do this deep conditioning hair treatment (but overnight would be best). Pick a good time when you can sit at home and don't need to go out.

You'll need the following items:

1. EVCO (amount determined by the length of your hair)

2. Plastic shower cap or Saran Wrap

Wet:

Shampoo your hair and let dry until slightly damp.
Apply a quarter-sized amount of virgin coconut oil to your palms and rub hands together. The heat from your hands will instantly melt the coconut oil, coating your palms and fingers with the oil. If you have longer hair, you'll probably need to use more oil.
Run your fingers through your hair coating your hair with the oil. Be sure to concentrate on the ends.Your hair will look slick and shiny from the oil. Be sure not to use too much oil. Using too much oil will take longer to rinse out. The trick is to use just enough so that the oil will penetrate the hair, without leaving an oily or greasy look. Use more at the ends, less in the middle and the roots.
Take the plastic shower cap or saran wrap and cover your hair.
Sit under and hooded dryer for 30 minutes (or warm towel for 45 minutes), then remove the plastic shower cap and rinse your hair.

Dry:

Prior to shampooing your hair part hair in equal sections
Apply a quarter-sized amount of virgin coconut oil to your palms and rub hands together. The heat from your hands will instantly melt the coconut oil, coating your palms and fingers with the oil. If you have longer hair, you'll probably need to use more oil.
Run your fingers through your hair coating your hair with the oil. Be sure to concentrate on the ends.Your hair will look slick and shiny from the oil. Be sure not to use too much oil.
Take the plastic shower cap or saran wrap and cover your hair.
Sit under and hooded dryer for 30 minutes or a warm tow or overnight, then remove the plastic shower cap and shampoo and condition your hair as usual.

Source

What I have done/will be doing:

I have tried both methods and will say I much prefer the damp/wet hair method (modified) much better in terms of application and results. I found that when I applies it to dry hair it just sat there!** I know that sounds weird, but it just sat there and it was like it didn't penetrate at all. It also didn't do much in terms of conditioning. Now at first I thought, well maybe it turned out that way because it was the first application, but I was reading about women that had soft, silky results after just one application--which in truth is what should have happened. Okay, so I thought, maybe my hair is just severely damaged, so I tried again. Again, nothing special. It actually felt mushy in the morning. I wasn't impressed at all.

Third week I decided to try on damp hair. I saw a difference immediately! Fourth week, hair was much better. Moisturized, soft....applying to damp hair is the way to go for me. What I did was lightly dampen my hair and applied the EVCO to my hair and cover with a plastic cap; let it sit overnight. The next morning I shampooed and condition as usual (so basically I combined the two methods).

Now I have heard women say, water and oil don't mix, so it won't work as well on damp/wet hair. I don't know what to tell you**, but the proof is in the pudding. Anyway, the moral to this story: go with your gut ladies. Listen to YOUR hair, not anyone else. Sure advice is helpful, but your hair will let you know what is or isn't working despite the promises found on the label.

*ETA: I have completed additional research since making this post and have found conflicting information regarding the application of EVCO. Please see my initial post and the added sources for more information to determine the best results for your hair.

**I recently found out I have mixed porosity (low and high), which explains the reason the dry application did not work for my hair. Please see my post on porosity and pH balance.

Friday, January 1, 2010

JBCO: Didn't Do it's Magic

Needless to say I didn't end my year on the best note--well not from a recovering PJ standpoint anyway. Oh it isn't too serious, I just spent a mini fortune on a few hair products that I found at Honey Fig in an effort to prepare for my upcoming challenges (product reviews to follow). I was doing so good too, I don't know what happened...The ingredients just looked great (all natural) and the smell of these products smelled like absolute heaven. I just hope its worth the money, but I digress.

As my JBCO challenge comes to an end (two weeks to go) I have mixed feelings about what I have seen thus far:

Promises:

Said to detoxify the scalp providing the best environment for hair growth, also helps to thicken areas where there is hair loss or thinning and will generally thicken thin hair when used over a period of time.

Results:

JBCO helped somewhat with my itchy scalp, but this relief was only temporary. It appear to help with my new growth in terms of making it feel softer and more defined (which may be good if I were natural), so it wasn't all bad. I did not have the increased shedding that I have read about with some ladies, but I did notice some. I think it created some irritation on my scalp initially because I had some scabbing, which I can only blame on the JBCO since I never had this issue before. As a result, I had to add Jojoba oil to dilute it, which helped some. In the end I had to add some EVCO to alleviate my itchy scalp, which helped a great deal ( love me some EVCO!)

Overall, I was not as satisfied as I would have liked. I had so many expectations of this product and it only seem to meet a few---very few and that is why JBCO gets a

from me. True, perhaps this is not fair, I mean my expectations may be unfair because there may be other factors at play here. Perhaps you need to use it straight without any other oils for it to really give you the results I hear about. Unfortunately, my poor tender head couldn't take it. I guess I should have waited to write this review, but who am I kidding? How much more progress can I really achieve in two weeks? I will keep adding it to my DC and using it as a sealer. I may even continue to use it to oil my scalp, but I will need to add it to my beloved EVCO first.