Building a Basic Regimen

When I first started my hair journey I was really struggling to figure out this "healthy hair thing". I didn't know what to do, what products to use or even how often to use these products to transform my hair. Truth be told I am still trying to figure all this stuff out. Over time I have been able to gather the following information that I thought might be helpful as you start your journey. It actually isn't too hard, the trick is:

1) Finding the right products for your hair type (3c, 4a, 4b or LOIS)
2) Current hair condition (high, normal, low porosity)
3) Current hair needs (dry, breakage, etc)

Then if that doesn't seem tricky enough, you also must figure how best to use these products for your hair (e.g. add oils, weekly vs bi-weekly, etc--the manufacturer's directions should be a start, but in some cases still need tweaking). In any regimen you should always have the following products:

1 Gentle/Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used at least 1/week* depending on your schedule and hair needs. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. Your shampoo should leave your hair detangled and soft, not stripped. Here are some examples:

Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
Abba Pure Color Protect Shampoo
Abba Pure Basic Shampoo
Alba Botanica Coconut Milk Extra Enrich Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Gardenia Hydrating Hair Wash
Alba Botanica Mango Moisturizing Hair Wash
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo

Aubrey Organics Island Naturals Replenishing Shampoo

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Extra Moisturizing Olive and Grapeseed Shampoo
Avalon Organics Nourishing Lavender Shampoo
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Shampoo
Avalon Organics Tea Tree Mint Treatment Shampoo
Aveda Scalp Benefits Balancing Shampoo

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo

Bee Mine Peppermint & Tea Tree Nourishing Shampoo
Burt's Bee Color Keeper Green Tea & Fennel seed Shampoo
Burt's Bee More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut Shampoo

Califia Care Shampoo 
Cream of Nature (red and green label)

Design Essentials Moisture Retention Shampoo
Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo

Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Shampoo
Giovanni 50:50 Balance Shampoo
Jane Carter Solution Hydrating Invigorating Shampoo
Jason Natural Plumeria & Sea Kelp Shampoo
Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo

KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Kinky-Curly Come Clean Moisturizing Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Organix Smoothing Shea Butter Shampoo
Organix Hydrating Tea Tree Mint Shampoo
Oyin Grand Poo Bar
Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Vatika Conditioning shampoo

*Some women choose to wash their hair once every 2 weeks or once a month vs once a week with some success. In these cases these women have chosen to co-wash in between shampoo sessions to keep the scalp clean. They then use shampoo to remove the build up (or "clarify") when needed. I have found that I must wash 1x week for my hair/scalp to feel its best.

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1x/month*. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean after using this product. Here are some examples:

Alba Botanica Daily Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter

Carol's Daughter Rosemary Mint Purifying Shampoo
Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
Hydratherma Naturals Herbal / Amino Clarifying Shampoo
Ion Clarifying Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Organic Root Stimulator Uplifting Shampoo
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Conditioner

*If you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. or use products with silicones you may want to use this more often but no more than 2x/month. I use a clarifying shampoo as needed.

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner*. You should follow up with one of these conditioners after* every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I have found deep conditioning my hair for 30 mins with heat (hooded dryer) has worked best for my hair. Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength and moisture based conditioner softens and replenishes dry hair. Protein conditioners should be used when your hair feels mushy, spongy and limp. In some cases a protein conditioner needs to be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair.

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair.

Here are some examples of moisture based conditioners:

KeraCare Humecto
Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner
AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner  (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Rosa Mosqueta Conditioner

Aussie Moist Conditioner
Avalon Organics Awapuhi Mango Moisturizing Conditioner
Avalon Organics Lavender Nourishing Conditioner
Aveda Color Conserve Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Moisturizing Conditioner
Bee Mine Bee-U-Ti-Ful Deep Conditioner
Biolage Hydratherapie Conditioning Balm
Burt's Bee Super Shiny Grapefruit & Sugar Beet Conditioner
Carol's Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie
Creme of Nature Moisture Extreme Conditioner
Dove Advance Care Sheer MoistureConditioner
Dove Moisture Rich Color Conditioner
Dove Damage Therapy Daily Moisture Treatment
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Elasta QP DPR-11 Deep Penetrating Remoisturizer

Elucence Moisture Balance Conditioner
Frederick Fekkai's Shea Butter Moisturizing Conditioner
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Ion Color Defense Hydrating Moisture Treatment
Jane Carter Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner
Joico Moisture Recovery Conditioner
Joico Moisture Intense Treatment Extra Conditioning Conditioner

Kenra Deep Penetrating Moisturizing Conditioner
KeraCare Humecto Creme Conditioner
KeraCare Moisturizing Conditioner for Color Treated Hair
Keratease Nutritive Masquintense Nourishing Treatment
Lustrasilk Shea Butter and Mango Cholesterol
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner

Mizani Hydrafuse Moisturizing Conditioner

Mizani Moisturefuse Moisturizing Conditioner

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Nexxus Humectress

Oyin Honey Hemp Conditioner
Pantene Relaxed & Natural Breakage Defence Mask
Paul Mitchell Super Charged Moisturizer
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner  (currently using)

Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment

Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment

Here are some examples of protein based conditioners:

light = can be used 1-2x/week**
medium = 1-2x/month
medium-heavy = 4 weeks
heavy = every 6+ weeks or as needed

Aubrey Organics GPB (light)
Aveda Damage Remedy Conditioner (light)
Africa's Best Organics Hair Mayonnaise (light)
Creme of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor (light)
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner (light)
Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum (light)
Homemade Avocado Mask (light)
Homemade Banana Mask (light)
Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus, Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment (light)
Joico K-Pak Reconstructor Conditioner (light)
Lekair Cholesterol Plus (light)
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (light)
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner (light)
Neutrogena Triple  Moisture Recovery Mask (light)
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner (light)
Organique Amla & Holy Basil Conditioner (light)
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise (light)

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor (medium)
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Extreme Protein Treatment (medium)
LeKair Cholesterol Plus Strengthening Conditioning Cream (medium)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (medium)
Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner (medium)
Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment (medium)
Queen Helene Cholesterol Hair Conditioning Cream (medium)

Organic Roots Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise Treatment for Damage Hair (medium-heavy)
Henna (medium-heavy)

Affirm 5 in1 Reconstructor (heavy)
Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment (heavy)
Dudley's DRC 28 Hair Treatment and Fortifier (heavy)
Elucence Extended Moisture Repair Treatment (heavy)
Motions CPR Protein and Repair Treatment Conditioner (heavy)
Nexxus Emergencee (heavy)

Nexxus Keraphix Restroative Strengthening Conditioner (heavy)
Mizani Kerafuse Intensive Strengthening Treatment (heavy)

*Some women choose to DC before washing their hair, as they feel the hair absorbs more of the conditioner when dry. They then follow up with a regular moisturizing shampoo or co-wash.

**Depending on your current hair structure/chemistry and current condition (e.g. damage, low porosity) even mild protein conditioners may be too much to use weekly. Always assess your hair condition regularly.

1 Leave-in conditioner*. This should be used after washing the hair and remain in the hair as it dries.

Here are some examples of moisture based leave-in conditioners:

Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In 
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based leave-in conditioners:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter

Giovanni Direct Leave In

Hydratherma Naturals Protein Balance Leave-In Conditioning Treatment
Infusium 23 Original

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In

Kenra Daily Defense Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion
Mane N Tail Original Conditioner (can double as conditioner and leave-in)

Profectiv Break Free Leave In

Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment

Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment

Salerm 21

Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk 

Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist

*Some women use more than one leave in conditioner (e.g. protein based and moisture) with some success.

1 Water Based Daily Moisturizers Use daily to hydrate the hair. It can be used 1-2x/day depending on your hair needs. Due to the texture and structure of my hair I used this 1x/day other day depending on the hair style I am wearing and the moisturizer/styler I used.

Here are some examples of moisture based moisturizers:

Hollywood Beauty Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Moisturizer
Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
Luster's S-Curl No Drip Activator Moisturizer
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Leave-in Creme
Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Moisturizer
Organic Root Stimulator Carrot Oil Moisturizer
Oyin's Frank Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin's Greg Juice Nourishing Herbal Leave In
Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion  (currently using)
Profectiv Damage Free Anti-Tangle Leave In
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Silk Elements Megasilk Leave In Moisturizing Creme
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix  (currently using)

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion

Here are some examples of protein based moisturizers:

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructorizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme
Chi Keratin Mist
Elasta QP Mango Butter
Infusium 23 Original

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Leave In

Komaza Shea Butter Hair Lotion

Profectiv Break Free Leave In

Profectiv Mega Growth Treatment

Profectiv Healthy Ends Treatment

Shea Moisture Organic Curl and Style Hair Milk   (currently using)

Shea Moisture Organic Hold & Shine Hair Moisture Mist   (currently using)

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Apply by adding a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up.Oils can also be added to conditioners and used as a pre-poo.

Here are some examples:

Avocado Oil  (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using as in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil (currently using on scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on scalp and Castor in leave in)
Macadamia Nut Oil 

Safflower Oil

Basic Regimen to Get You Started!

You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
1 Leave-in Conditioner
1 Daily Moisturizer
1 Natural Oil

Additional items:
Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet

• Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing shampoo 1-2x/week (Preferably sulfate free)
• Use a moisturizing deep conditioner with heat after every shampoo
• Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
• Use a water-based moisturizer 1-2x/day then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
• Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
• Relax no sooner than 8 weeks
• Do a protein treatment when needed (whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
• Trim when needed
• Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
• Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.

That's it!! Remember to take a step back and re-evaluate your hair and your methods. LISTEN to your hair. It will tell you when something is not working well for you (i.e. dryness, breakage etc.) Give your hair time to get adjusted. It's all about trial and error until you realize what your hair likes, then you'll see improvement.

Happy Hair Growing!!

Source (Thanks SunShyne!)
*The Science of Black Hair 

© copyright 2009-2015; All rights reserved ManeDiva

The Fine Art of Protein and Moisture Balancing

I came across this article a few days ago and found it very helpful on my hair growth journey. It can be quite challenging to take care of relaxed hair (e.g. dryness, breakage).  

Some find it harder than other to achieve and maintain strong, beautiful locs and this is largely due to the fact that some women lack the knowledge to take care of their hair. I personally would like to limit the amount of time I am spending in my hairdresser's chair (and save some of my hard earned cash in the process), so lets do it ladies, lets get educated!

The article was originally written by Audrey Sivasothy , a freelance writer that specializes in writing about health and beauty. Let me know what you think! (caution: it's a long one)

Do you find random hairs in your comb, on your shirt, on your sinks and on your bathroom floors? Are you finding hair everywhere but securely upon your head? What is going on? You may have a problem with hair breakage. For black hair in particular, hair breakage is typically a result of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strands: moisture and protein.

Moisture

Hair needs water to maintain its elasticity, or ability to stretch. Since water is the ultimate moisturizer, water-based products are best for really getting the greatest moisture benefit.

Moisturizers are simply products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be your conditioners and other specific moisturizer sprays or creams. Moisturizers may also contain large amounts of protein, but these protein based moisturizers do not have the moisturizing benefit that moisture-based moisturizers have. Check labels to gauge protein content. Good moisturizers will not contain cheap, filler ingredients like petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. Avoid products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants that seal out the precious moisture our hair needs.

Sealing in your Moisturizers:

Our hair naturally contains moisture, but because our hair is also naturally porous, keeping the moisture inside is a difficult task. Providing additional sources of outside moisture, or external moisture supplementation, is a must for black hair care. Water molecules and moisture from these supplemental moisturizing products easily pass into the hair shaft, but they pass out just as easily. The moisture you apply needs to held in by something. Oil.

Natural oils like jojoba, olive, carrot, or coconut oil seem to work best. A light coating of oil after your daily moisturizer will help seal the moisture inside. Oils are made of large molecules. These molecules are too large to absorbed by the hair strand. Applying oils to the hair and scalp will coat them and trap the moisture that is inside on the inside and the moisture on the outside on the outside. The key is to use the oil to "lock in the moisture." If you use oils without a moisturizer or before one, the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to a coated feel and eventual dryness. This technique of moisturizing and sealing has really been helpful to me and is a resonating hallmark of my regimen. Fighting hair breakage and achieving moisturizing success is all in the order in which you apply your products.

REMEMBER! Oils DO NOT Moisturize

Perhaps a words like "nourish" would be better than moisturize. Oil alone will not and cannot moisturize within the hair shaft. An oil (grease) can only coat the outside of the strand, and give it shine- the illusion of moisture. Oil molecules are hydrophobic which means they repel and do not readily mix with water. Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturizing product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate.

Protein

Protein is what gives the hair its strength and structure. Hair is about 70% keratin protein by nature. There are a wide variety of proteins that serve different functions and roles in hair care. Some enhance elasticity, while others reduce it. These proteins bind to the hair cuticle and help temporarily rebuild any weakened areas.

Protein-based products reinforce the hair shaft, and help it remain strong enough to fight breakage. Some proteins are stronger than others, but daily or even weekly use of even the milder protein treatments may result in an imbalance between the protein and moisture levels within the hair strands in some people. This is where product percent composition really plays an important role. For example, every product that contains keratin protein is not going to feel the same way across the board, and every product that contains glycerin or water is not going to feel the same either! The protein in question could make up 30% of the product or 0.3%! Who knows! You have to play around with different products to know how strong they are on your particular hair. Your hair protein tolerance will vary from product to product, not necessarily protein to protein.

Protein is found most prevalently in products like instant conditioners (bargain brands like Suave and V05), leave-in conditioners, protein reconstructor conditioner treatments, and even some moisturizers. Women with relaxed or color treated hair need more protein than others. If you are relaxed or color treated, those processes have compromised the protein structure of your hair. Relaxing and coloring breaks protein bonds, and depending on the type and strength of the relaxer, and level of bond breakage you incur will need more or less protein than someone else. There are also some people whose hair is more protein deficient by nature (genetics, low protein dietary intake), so they require more regular protein than others to keep the balance intact. At the end of the day, you must experiment and get to know your own head of hair.

You Can't Have one Without the other!

The unique relationship that exists between the protein and moisture balances within the hair strand is not simply a case of balancing opposing forces one over the other to prevent hair breakage. These two components work together synergistically to produce a healthy head of hair, and neither can work well without the other. Keeping the hair balanced between these two entities is very important. Protein loss from chemical treatments is almost always followed by a moisture loss of some degree. Hair that is properly proteinated absorbs moisture more efficiently because water molecules bind easily to a sound protein structure within the hair. Achieving the proper balance involves using the right combinations of protein and moisture based products for your hair type.

When the Balance Tips, You Must Wet Assess

Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. Hair is not exempt from this old adage. Growing out your hair is a constant battle between maintaining even protein and moisture balances. Hair breakage is the result of the hair chemistry being thrown off balance. Hair that is shifted too far on either side of the balance (too much protein or too much moisture) will break.

The Importance of Wet Assessment

Though hair health assessments can be performed on dry hair, determining your cause of breakage is often easiest on wet hair. Hair in its wet state exudes the basic properties of elasticity and strength excellently. In fact, these qualities are often exaggerated on wet hair. Thorough and frequent wet assessments will help you maintain your hair's health and condition.

Hair in its optimal condition will not break when wet unless undue stress is placed upon it through aggressive combing, detangling, or unusual types of pulling stress. Balanced hair will feel soft and supple, yet strong while wet. When you comb through it, it should resist excess stretching and will hardly break if you are careful. Over time, and with trial and error, you will be able to tell what is normal stress for your hair.

If your hair does indeed break when wet, the way the hair breaks under these conditions will give you a sure indication of whether more moisture or protein is required to regain the proper balance.

How Do I Perform a Proper Wet Assessment?

It would be difficult for you to wet assess your hair by holding a single strand and pulling on both ends. That type of stress would be considered "undue" stress, because no single hair is ever really subjected to that sort of tension at one time. Any strand of hair (healthy or not) that you pull on by both ends has the potential to snap depending on the pressure you apply to it. Hair should be wet assessed by the normal act of combing though it or touch-testing it.

Wet Assessment Hair Breakage Break Down

If your hair:

(When Wet or Dry) Stretches slightly and returns to its original length without breaking, you are balanced! Stick with maintaining!

(When Wet or Dry) Stretches a little more than normal then breaks, you need more protein in your regimen.

(When Wet or Dry)Stretches, stretches, stretches with no significant breakage yet, add a bit more protein to your regimen.

(Wet)- Feels weak, gummy, mushy, or limp, you need to add more protein to your regimen.

(Wet or Dry) Experiences very little to no stretching, and simply snaps or breaks, you need to increase the moisture in your regimen.

(Dry) Feels rough, tough, hard, dry, tangly, brittle, or any combination of those, you need more moisture in your regimen.

Unsure? Err on the side of caution and give your hair more moisture. So now that you have figured out what type of hair breakage you have, what should you do?

When the balance is thrown off by too much protein

Hair that is shifted too far on the protein side will break easier, both wet and dry, because it lacks elasticity. Elasticity is what allows us to style, stretch, and manipulate our hair without breakage. Hair that breaks with very little tension or stretching is a sign of an overabundance of protein, and a deficiency of moisture. Any type of stretching or tension will break it because the protein goes in and adds structure to the hair. Too much structure makes the hair rigid, and decreases its elasticity. The result? Brittle, breakage-prone hair.

If this describes your hair at any time listen up! To correct this imbalance, you will need to go into a simple deep conditioning and moisturizing regimen. Protein induced breakage conditions can take several weeks to correct repair, and this form of breakage requires much more intensive conditioning treatment than moisture induced breakage does. It is by far one of the most aggressive and common forms of breakage. It is much easier to overload your hair with protein and cause breakage, than to overload your hair with moisture and cause breakage. That is why if you are not sure what is causing your hair breakage, you should always try giving it moisture first. Depending on your level of breakage, this regimen may need to be followed for consecutive washes.

Clarify your hair with a really good stripping shampoo like Pantene Pro-V Purity to remove any excess product buildup. Then, deep condition your hair for 30-45 minutes once, preferably twice a week with heat with a thick, creamy moisturizing deep conditioner. Apply a water-based moisturizer to your hair, concentrating on the ends daily. I would watch out for excess protein in common products like leave in conditioners, moisturizers, gels, and instant conditioners like Suave and V05. Protein hides in a lot of everyday products, so avoid those for a few weeks until your moisture balance is corrected. This will give your hair a chance to even out the protein/moisture balance. A list of product recommendations can be found at the end of this article.

When the balance is thrown off by too much moisture

Yes! There is such a thing as "over-conditioning" the hair and Trina found that out the hard way. Hair that is shifted too far on the moisture side will be "super-elastic" and stretch more because it lacks a sound protein structure. Many people describe the feel of over-conditioned and over-moisturized hair as "mush-like" or "overly soft," especially when wet. This kind of hair has a weak, limp, spongy feel to it. Protein deficient hair will tend to pull and stretch along with the comb and then break. It will always stretch first then break because of the low structural protein stores, and overabundance of moisture. Does this describe your hair? Listen up!

To solve this problem, you will need some kind of protein to give the hair structure again. Moisture Induced hair breakage is typically corrected in one protein deep conditioning session. The mildest forms can be corrected by simply moisturizing the hair twice a day with a protein based, water based moisturizer. For mild breakage, Aphogee 2 minute keratin reconstructor works very well. For moderate to heavy breakage, apply a moderate protein conditioner like Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo to the hair for about 20-30 minutes, then rinse. For serious or long standing forms of moisture induced breakage opt for a heavier protein treatment like Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair.

Even if your hair is stretching without breakage you should use a light protein product to correct this. When your hair stretches, the strand "thins" and becomes weaker across the cross section. It may not break right then at that very point in time, but stretched out of and beyond its shape, it is compromised and will eventually break at some other point. Your hair should be springing back to position. If it's stretching and stretching without breaking it may be your hair's way of telling you, "Hey, I need a little structure (protein) here! I'm getting waaaay too elastic, but not yet enough to break-- so do something now!" This is where a preventive maintenance protein application would come in. You don't have to wait for breakage to act. Your hair is telling you now! Start light, and work from there. You may not need a heavy protein treatment just yet.

Should I schedule my protein treatments in advance?

Some individuals like to schedule moderate protein conditioning treatments, however, I do not advise "protein-ing" on a specific schedule. Scheduling is good for when you are just starting out and getting into the groove, but you will soon start to see that your hair often has its own plan for when you need different things. Setting aside a week or two in your regimen for protein conditioning is just not effective at addressing your hair needs as they arise. Hair does not know or understand our "schedules." Its needs and wants change from day to day, week to week. Treatments should only be done as you need them. Sometimes that might be weekly, other times it may be every 2 or 3 weeks! Only your hair can dictate that to you.

Scheduling also prevents you from truly developing an understanding of your hair needs because instead of looking for certain cues and signs, you are looking at the calendar. Protein-ing on a schedule can eventually lead to protein overload if you are not careful! It is so much harder to bounce back from an overload of protein than it is an overload of moisture/conditioning.

I'm Balanced- Now What?

Now, once your hair is balanced and the breakage has minimized, you can try to maintain the balance for as long as you can by interchanging your moisture and protein based products. It does not have to be on a particular schedule. With time and some patience, you will master this delicate balancing act. Happy Hair Growing!

The Hair Repair Balancing Act

If you've been keeping up with my progress thus far you will know that I have really been struggling to find the right moisture-protein balance for my hair to no avail. Up to this point I have been killing my hair with protein overload, largely because I was not very knowledgeable about protein based products. I mean I had some knowledge of reconstructors and protein deep conditioners, but I really was lost when it came to most basic daily products (e.g. leave ins, "moisturizers"). As a result, I have been piling on the protein turning my hair into a dry, crinkly, mess!

So I have done my research and I think I may be able to get a handle on this thing. I have to send a shout out to Sunshyne for posting such an extensive list of hair products. The time and effort she put into generating that list has helped me out immensely. Along with a few websites I have come across I have been able to create another hair regimen to see where that takes me...fingers crossed.

Now if I need to make this even more difficult, I am really trying to reach an all natural hair product regimen...but I will take this one step at a time.

For your own reference I have included a few examples of hair products you can try to create your own regimen (this is by no means extensive, and really only include the products I am aware of). Remember, keep it simple and make sure you have the basics "ingredients" to get you started: moisturizing shampoo, clarifying shampoo, 2* deep conditioners** (moisture and protein), leave in conditioner, daily moisturizer (depending on the leave in you choose it may be able to double up and your daily moisturizer instead of buying a separate one), natural oil for sealing. With this in place you should be on your way!

Moisturizing Shampoo:

Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo
Califia Care Shampoo 

Creme of Nature Shampoo 

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo

Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
Jason Sea Kelp Shampoo
Abba Pure Moisture Shampoo
AtOne Botanical Hydrating Shampoo
KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Motions Weightless Conditioning Shampoo
Motions Lavish Shampoo
Mizani Botanifying Shampoo
Silk Elements Luxury Moisturizing Shampoo
Silk Elements MegaSilk Olive Shampoo
Aphogee Deep Moisture Shampoo
Mane N Tail Deep Moisturizing Shampoo
Hair One Cleansing Conditioner
Wen Cleansing Conditioner
SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (currently using)

Clarifying Shampoo :
Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo

Suave Daily Clarifying Shampoos

Nexxus Aloe Rid Shampoo

Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Shampoo

Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo
KeraCare 1st Lather Shampoo
Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
Elasta QP Scalp Stimulating Shampoo
VO5 Herbal Escapes Kiwi Lime Squeeze Clarifying Shampoo
Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Shampoo (currently using)

Moisturizing Conditioners: 

Abba Pure Moisture Conditioner
Abba Pure Color Protect Conditioner

AtOne Botanicals Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose (currently using)
Aubrey Organics Mosqueta Nourishing Conditioner 

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Aveda Dry Remedy Conditioner 

Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner

Elasta QP DPR-11

Elucence Moisture Balance conditioner

KeraCare Humecto
Motions Moisture Plus Conditioner
Mizani Moisturefuse

Mizani Hydrafuse
Silk Elements MegaSilk Moisturizing Treatment
Silk Elements Mega Cholesterol Conditioning Treatment
Joico Moisture Recovery
Nexxus Humectress
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Daily Deep Conditioner
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Mask
Giovanni Smooth as Silk Conditioner
Queen Helene Cholesterol
Redken All Soft
Deep Brilliance Moisture
Lustrasilks Shea Butter Cholesterol Plus 

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (currently using)

Protein Conditioners:

(can be used 1x/week or bi-weekly):
Vital Olive Oil Hair Mayonnaise
Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak Conditioner

Creme Of Nature Conditioning Reconstructor

Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

Lekair Cholesterol Plus
Elasta QP Fortifying Conditioner

Elasta QP Breakage Control Serum

Aphogee 2 min Reconstructor 

Creme of Nature Reconstructor

Aubrey Organics GPB 

Egg mixed with light conditioner

(can be used 1-2x/month):

Joico K-Pak Reconstructor

Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayo
Motions Moisture Silk Protein Conditioner

Design Essentials 6 N 1 Reconstructive Conditioner

Ion Repair Solutions Hair Reconstructor Treatment
Natural Henna (currently using)

(should not be used any sooner than every 6 weeks):

Vitale Reconstructor

Affirm 5in1 Reconstructor

Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment 

Nexxus Emergencee

Nexxus Keraphix
Komaza Protein Hair Strengthener
Mizani Kerafuse 

Leave in Conditioner:
Moisture based:
Sunsilk TLC Cream
Design Essentials HCO Leave-In Conditioner
Mixed Chicks Leave-In Conditioner
Aussie Leave-In Conditioner
Creme of Nature Lemongrass & Rosemary Leave-in
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
IC Fantasia Aloe Complex Leave In
Elasta QP H-two Leave-in Spray
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream
Herbal Essences Break's Over Strengthening Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences None of Your Frizzness Leave-in
Nexxus Humectress
SCurl No Drip Activator
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix 

  

Protein based:
Nexxus Headress Weightless Leave-In Conditioner
Infusium 23 Original

Profectiv Breakfree Moisturizer 

Profectiv Megagrowth Moisturizer 

Aphogee Green Tea Reconstructerizer

Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave in 

Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Conditioning Repair Creme

Redken Anti-Snap Leave-in

Chi Keratin Mist

Mane N Tail Original Conditioner

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Daily Moisturizers:

(Use 1-2x/day to hydrate the hair): 

Moisture based:

S-Curl No Drip Activator

Hollywood Beauty Olive Oil Creme
Hollywood beauty Carrot Oil

ORS Olive Oil

ORS Carrot Oil 

Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion  
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Creme
Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in
Komaza Shea Butter Lotion
Water-Aloe-Glycerin mix (currently using)

Protein based:

Cantu Shea butter,

Elasta QP Mango Butter

Profective Healthy Ends 

SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk 
SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Hold and Shine Moisture Mist 

Natural Oil:

Avocado Oil (currently using in DC)

Argan Oil (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Olive Oil  (currently using in DC)

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (currently using in DC)
Shea Butter

Jojoba Oil  (currently using on my scalp)

Jamaican Black Castor Oil/Castor Oil (currently using JBCO on my scalp and Castor Oil in my DC) 
Macadamia Nut Oil 

Safflower Oil

Now just from reviewing this list and what I am and was currently using I can clearly see where I went wrong. For starters, I never clarify, I don't moisturize on a daily basis and as I stated above, I am using way too much protein. I suggest that if you are also struggling to meet your hair goals you also review the list, check off what you are doing or aren't doing and shape it up. Hope that helps you in your effort to reach your hair goals.

Happy hair growth!

                                 

*ETA August 23, 2014: I have learned that a separate moisturizing and protein conditioner is not as necessary as I once believed. Now, I only use and moisturizing conditioner and add a small amount of hydrolyzed wheat protein when I am completing a protein treatment, which is known to penetrate the hair shaft much more effectively. I have seen great benefits with this approach. I can control the level of protein in my conditioner, it's natural and it has saved me a lot of money.  I also save time because I do not have to follow up with a moisturizing conditioner. Win, win, win in my books.

** ETA August 23, 2014: I've recently learned that any "basic" conditioner can be turned into a "deep conditioner" by simply adding penetrating oils. In truth, most companies use the words "deep conditioner" when in fact the ingredients do not penetrate or fully condition the hair. 

Personalized Hair Care

I have come across a lot of questions online related to choosing the right products for hair growth (e.g conditioners, shampoo, hair and scalp treatment). Every woman seems to be looking for that "magic in a bottle", which simply doesn't exist.  I have found that the only "magical" thing that is going on for these women with beautiful "locs" is their never ending commitment to maintaining and pampering their hair (some of these women out here are SERIOUS about their hair!). More importantly, there doesn't seem to be any one hair product that can do everything you need. Speaking from experience I have had to use a number of products to achieve the look I was trying to create, which may even require me to add additional stuff (e.g. oils) to various products to make my hair behave.

Finding the right products that worked for my hair was not an easy thing to achieve. Creating a regimen is even harder. My hair has various needs depending on the weather and my stress level at the time. Oh yes, stress seems to be impacting my hair in a negative way. So a lot of my hair success (and disasters) have been achieved through trial an error and borrowing ideas from other women.

In a previous post (Back to Basics) I have already shared ways you can encourage successful hair growth, but I thought I would spend some time discussing the way I've streamlined my products and fine tune my hair regimen. Tons of women have shared their secrets on hair growth online--and I have been so appreciative. Time to pay it forward.

So this is where I began:

1. Create a chart that will help you organize the products your using. Some women like to use a journal, go right a head if that is what you prefer. I persoanlly found that when I have the information all together on one page it has helped me a lot more than flipping through various pages to see what I did/didn't do. I have organized my chart by product type (e.g. shampoos, conditioners) which has been helpful to me. 
2. Your chart should have five columns which should include: Product Used, How Much Used, Additions, Issues trying to Address and Comments:

Product  (e.g. AOHR)	How Much (e.g. 2 tbsp)	Additions (e.g. EVCO, EVOO)	Issue Address (e.g. dryness, breakage)	Comments (e.g. hair felt soft and moisturized)

These columns will help you examine what you are doing to your hair and the way each product is responding to your hair. Does 1/4 vs 1/8 cup of Sweet Almond Oil make my hair moisturized or does it make it feel slick and greasy? Does your hair feel dry or mushy after using a particular shampoo or conditioner?

3. Be VERY specific about how much product you are using and what you are doing with it (e.g. 2 tbsp of jojoba oil mixed in 1/2 cup of Aubrey's GPB Conditioner). It may sound silly, but I have found that if I am even 1 tbsp off with a particular product my hair responds differently.
4. Document how your hair feels before, during,  immediately after and a few days after using a product. What do you notice, if anything?
5.  Measure your process and document any changes in hair in the "Issues Trying to Address" category. This section will be filled in over time as your hair grows and in between shampoos.
6. Use the product long enough to give it a chance.

I know this may feel a little time consuming in the beginning, but I found has been so helpful. Not only did it save me money because I was only buying and using products that proved to work for MY hair, I discovered I had much more room under my cabinet than I thought as I began throwing away the crap that wasn't working. More importantly my hair was finally growing! For years I would be using a product because everyone swore by it, only to find it completely ruined my hair, but I wasn't in touch with my hair enough to know before it was too late. This problem was usually masked because 1) I was using to much crap to begin with so it was hard to tell what product specifically was messing up my hair or 2) I just wasn't paying attention. Trying this method will slow you down a lot and force you to pay attention to what is going on with your hair.

                                 

Back to Basics: Simple Steps to Black Hair Growth

So here I am again... at one of my favorite natural health food stores about to fall off the product junkie wagon and buy every product under the sun in an effort to gain super speedy hair growth. Arms full of oils, shampoos, deep conditioners, bottles of essential oils falling all over the

place. Who cares if the store owner wants to kick my butt out of the store, I am on a mission!

It's funny because prior to starting my journey I haven't really noticed other women with naturally long hair. As of late, that is all I see. Don't get me wrong, my hair isn't tore up or anything, but it could use some real work. I use to be and still am in some way, horrible when it came to taking care of my hair due to my hectic schedule and just plain laziness at times. I mean hair care is a lot of work, regardless of how you wear it and like most black women I have worn my hair both straight and natural to test out that statement.  I get exhausted just thinking about the routine that is required to maintain and achieve healthy beautiful hair. So what does that mean for me then? Weekly and daily routines that produce beautiful healthy hair, or quick wash and gos, that require little maintenance and also produce lack luster, dry, brittle hair? (You noticed I didn't  mention long hair. I think if I can accomplish the first two goals, hair length will come naturally--right?). So I've decided on the former, however that leaves me with two important questions:

1) How do I find the time to achieve these beautiful, awe dropping tresses?
2) Where do I begin?!

First off, I had to have a real honest look at my schedule and what I was actually doing with my time. I came to the realization that I spend A LOT of time in front of the television 

I 'm talking close to 40 hours a week people! No wonder I don't have enough time to do even the most basic things I need to do to take care of myself, which includes going to the gym (but that's a discussion for another blog). I mean seriously, that's a work week. I'm actually a little embarrassed to admit that. Clearly time is NOT the issues here...

Next, I really had to get back to basics?  Hair care does not have to be complicated at all. Simply ask yourself:

• What are your issues regarding your hair? List and prioritize them. Mine are alleviating a dry itchy scalp; dry, brittle hair; breakage and shedding.  In that order.
• Next work on eliminating each issue one at a time. Some will inevitably influence others, but if you work at one at a time, it avoids confusion about what is working.

I know, I know, we are all striving to find that bottle of magic that will fix all of our hair ills, but addressing each issue at a time will help you recognized what does and doesn't work for your hair. You will also learn to develop a new appreciation for your hair. I mean how can you not appreciate your hair? After all the abuse it's still growing "strong"! Honestly, I think my hair should be clogging my shower drain right now, but it appears to still be attached to my head--through thick and thin (pardon the pun).

As you're figuring out how to correct the issues you're having with your hair, be mindful that not every product will have the same results on your hair and scalp as someone else. Suggestions are great, but your hair will be the final judge of a "great" or "crappy" product. Taking this step by step approach may seem tedious, but it far worth it because you will have a specialized routine that helps your hair become the best it can be!

I'd love to hear any hair goals other subscribers may have and the success they are having with different products....store bought or self created.