Mini Hair Goals Revisited

I was reviewing a few of my older post while I was cleaning up some of the bugs on the blog and I came across a post that I posted at the beginning of my journey (when I was relaxed) and that it helped me a lot when I was trying to get over that hump from jaw length to shoulder length. I am currently stuck at SL at the moment and I really want to move on already! 

Anyway, the process requires me to sit down and really organize my thoughts . What am I trying to achieve? What are some of the issues I have with my hair right now? Basically, what I was trying to do was come up with some mini goals, so that in time I would be able to achieve my overall goal of beautiful healthy hair. 

This is what I came up with:

1. Increase moisture 
2. Retain length
3. Reduce single strain knots and breakage
4. Improve and maintain a healthy scalp condition

When broken down in this way, it really isn't that hard. So how do I achieve success with each goal? What products or tools will I use?

Increase Moisture

1. Drink more H20  (minimum 2 litres/day) 
2. Use a moisture balance shampoo, conditioner and deep conditioner at a pH of 5.0
3. Spritz hair with a specialize mix for porosity level every other day 
4. Apply a protein conditioner as needed (biweekly for high porosity; once a month for low porosity) to fill in gaps in hair shaft
5. Apply herbal oil treatment once a month
6. Use a moisturizer with a pH of 4.0 and seal with shea butter on high porosity areas 
7. Use a hooded dryer to assist in deep conditioning

Retain Length

1. Finger detangling. My hair is just too tightly coiled to comb through, even with a wide tooth comb.
2. Minimize manipulation by utilizing protective styles 100 of the time for longer periods of time (e.g. 2 weeks) for a period of 6 months.
3. Tie hair with scarf and sleep on silk pillowcase

Reduce Single Strain Knots and Breakage

1. Minimize manipulation by utilizing protective styles 100% of the time for longer periods of time (e.g. 2 weeks) over a period of 6 months.
2. Finger detangling.
3. Allow for enough time to do hair routine to avoid rushing

Improve and Maintain a Healthy Scalp Condition

1. Apply herbal growth every other day
2. Daily 1 min scalp massages

I'll keep you posted on my hair progress.

Happy Hair Growth!

Hair Update

Since I've made a few changes to my hair regimen based on my hair's porosity level, I have noticed a difference in my hair. It retains moisture a lot better, it feels softer, there is less breakage. 

Some of the things I have done to adjust my products to help my hair along:

Shampoo (5.5 pH):
1.5 tbsp conditioning shampoo 
1.5 tbsp water
1/4 tsp lemon juice
3 drops tea tree oil and 3 drops of lavender (for alleviate scalp ailments) 

Conditioner (5.0 pH):
per 2 tbsp conditioner
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/4 tsp of EVCO, EVOO, Argan and Avocado oil
(3/8-3/4 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein if doing a protein conditioner)

Leave in (4.5 pH):
1 tbsp Knot Today
1/2 tsp aloe vera juice
1/2 tsp Jojoba oil
1/2 tsp castor oil

Styler (4.5-4.0 pH):
1 tbsp Camilla Rose Jai Almond Twisting Butter 
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/8 tsp lemon juice (to lower to 4.0 for high porosity areas)

Spritz as needed (4.0 pH):
high porosity
1/3 cup water
3 tbsp aloe vera juice
2 tbsp veg glycerine

low porosity
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp water
1 tbsp veg glycerine 

These adjustments seem to be working for my hair so far. I notice my hair responds by clumping and curling really well. Little to no frizz and moisture that last for days and it feels very soft. I am also trying to stick with a set a product for a period of time to really give this new regimen a chance. So far so good because I notice if I deviate from this process even slightly I will get different results. I've also been able to learn which products do not work well. 

Low/High Porosity Woes

A few days ago I posted information on hair porosity and how important it is to hair care and length retention. So what does this mean for your hair, especially if you are like me and have "spotty" or different porosity levels?

Well, there is some confusion regarding the way in which hair responds to moisture, manual manipulation and heat. To begin, many believe the cuticles can be easily opened and closed by simply applying particular products or heat to the hair, however it does take a lot more effort than that. While it is true, certain harsh chemicals have the ability to lift the cuticles, the the key word here is "harsh". You must remember, when this occurs your cuticles are being forcibly raised because the hair is out of balance. This is not something you would want to do to your hair on a consistent basis (e.g. weekly) . More importantly, forcing your cuticles to open on a consistent basis is not something you can do without severely damaging the hair over time. In other words, you can not "fix" your hair's porosity.

So what can you do? Although you can not "fix" the current state of your hair, you can minimize the damage that can happen because the cuticles are raised (high) or resistant (low) to absorbing moisture. Keep in mind, these practices are temporary and must be done on a regular basis and they only serve to help you retain the length you have as you grow in hair that is healthier and balanced (e.g. normal/medium porosity). This is why it is good to evaluate your hair every six months or and make adjustments as you continue on your hair journey. 

Tips for Low Porosity

1. Beware of and minimize your use of products that have a low pH or highly acidic (e.g. aloe vera juice, citric acid) because these substances work to keep the cuticles closed.
2. Use light to medium water based moisturizers and minimize products that are loaded with heavy oils or butters as these will simply sit on top of the hair. 
3. Use lighter oils (e.g. jojoba, argan or grape seed) to seal in the moisture you are using on the hair.
4. Use steam to help add moisture to the hair. 
5. Apply products to damp or slightly dry hair instead of wet hair.
6. Focus more on increasing moisture levels, while minimizing protein as this type of hair often retains protein quite well.
7. Stick to monthly protein treatments to avoid protein overload.

Tips for High Porosity

1. Use a moisturizing shampoo
2. Use products with a low pH or highly acidic (e.g. aloe vera juice, citric acid) because these substances work to keep the tighten the opened cuticles (it will not "close" them).
3. Use thicker butters and products with heavier oils as it will seal the cuticles and trap in the moisture you receive from the product.  
4. Use of protein (hydrolyzed wheat or silk) conditioners regularly (weekly to biweekly) to help fill in gaps and holes that are present in the hair shaft.

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What the pH?!

So now that I understand a little bit more about porosity and how important it is to hair growth, I have decided to make a few changes. Before I explain what those changes will be I wanted to highlight some information on pH balance, as porosity and pH balance go hand in hand. 

Without getting too technical, it is very important to understand how pH aids in maintaining optimal hair balance as this affects hair growth (length retention), its appearance (shine vs dull, frizz vs sleek, curl definition) and how your hair responds to products/ingredients (styling results). 

Healthy hair is naturally more acidic, falling between a pH of 4.0-5.5. Several environmental factors can negatively affect the pH balance of our hair, such as  chemicals, harsh shampoos, styling products and heat. When the hair is pH balanced, the cuticles remain slightly closed allowing it to remain strong and healthy and shiny. When the pH balance of the hair is too high the cuticles are raise and the cortex of the hair shaft is exposed, which can lead to tangles, frizz, knots making the hair more susceptible to damage and breakage. Similarly, when the scalp's pH is too high, you will experience various scalp disorders (e.g. dry, itchy, dandruff).

One way to create and maintain a healthy pH balance is by using products that is close to the appropriate pH range to help maintain (or restore) the hair's ideal pH levels when it is too high. The cuticles on curly hair tends to remain open as the curl pattern make it difficult for the cuticles to lie flat. Therefore, the products we use is very crucial. Learning this information has been a tremendous help to me as I try to get my hair back on track because similar to porosity, it has helped me understand why my hair is reacting to certain products in a negative way. 

Armed with my pH testing strips, I tested all of the products I currently use. I recommend that you do this as well since very few companies post the pH level of their products.Testing strips will come in handy for another reason as well, which I will explain below. I also included the ideal range for these products. 

Shampoo (6.0-5.0):

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo 7.0

Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Shine Shampoo 7.0

Conditioner (5.0-4.0):

Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner 6.5

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner 5.5

Cantu Shea Butter Mask 5.0

Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner 4.0

Leave In Conditioner (4.5-4.0):

Knot Today Detangler 7.0

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Hold & Shine Moisture Mist pH 6.5

Giovanni Direct Leave-in pH 6.0

Moisturizer (4.5-4.0):

Shea Moisture Organic Coconut & Hibiscus Curl and Style Milk pH 7.0

Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream 7.0

Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream 6.5

Shea Moisture Yucca & Baobab Volumizing Hair Milk 6.5

Oyin Handmade Honey Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion pH 5.0

Stylers (4.5-4.0):

Komaza Care Califia Styling Pudding 7.0

Komaza Care Coconut Hair Pudding 7.0
Camilla Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter 7.0

Entwine Coutour Jellé Styler 6.5

Lily of the Desert Aloe Vera Gelly 6.0

Eco Styler Gel (Olive Oil) 6.0

KCCC 4.5

As you can see a lot of the products I use do not fall within the appropriate pH range. Pair this information with the issues associated to high and low  porosity I can understand why I have been struggling with frizzy, brittle, dry hair for so long.  

So what does this mean for my hair? Well, I don't think it would be practical to run out and buy a slew of new products, but I do need to find a solution to address the issues I am having with my hair if I hope to retain my lengths. One solution would be to "create" pH balanced products that will work best on my hair. This best way to accomplish this is to simply add ingredients that test higher in acidity to my hair products in an effort to lower its alkalinity. This would include ingredients like:

Aloe Vera Juice 4.0

Vinegar 2.5

Lemon Juice 2.0

ACV 3.5

This is where those additional testing strips I discussed above will be helpful. Once you've added one of these ingredients to your products, retest it to make sure it falls within the appropriate range. For example, I add some distilled water and 1/4 tsp of lemon juice to approximately 4 oz of shampoo lowering it from a 7.0 pH to 5.5 pH. I've noticed a difference in how my hair feels after shampooing when I've done this over a period of time. 

If you are going to add anything to your products to lower its pH level, it is highly recommended that you separate a small amount of the product you would like to use and gradually add one of the ingredients listed above to ensure that you do not "spoil" the larger batch. 

I hope this helps you out as much as it has helped me.

HHG!

Hair Porosity...What's the Big Deal?

Porosity seems to be on (almost) everybody's lips. Why? How does porosity effect the quality of our hair? Well, porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retain moisture. It is determined by the cuticle layers, which allows moisture to pass in and out of the hair. If the cuticles are tightly closed (also known as low porosity) it will be difficult to get moisture into the hair. If the cuticles are raised (also known as high porosity) then it will be easy to get moisture into the hair, however you will have difficulty retaining that moisture.In both situations, the lack of moisture will result is dry hair, which has an increase chance of breakage. Normal porosity is the optimum hair state we want to achieve (or maintain) because it allows moisture to enter the hair shaft, while preventing too much moisture from escaping. The result, is healthy, shiny hair that thrives and behave in a predictable way (e.g. maintains hair style, easy to manage and manipulate). 

Porosity levels may be determined by genetic factors, but it can, and is often affected by external factors such like the environment, heat treatment, chemical use and how you handle your hair. Understanding and identifying your hair's porosity is important because it will ensure you are using the right products to address your current hair condition and meet your hair goals. 

I emphasize "current" because hair porosity can change over time. A person can also have different porosity levels throughout their hair. I for one have both low and high porosity hair. After doing some research, this was how I figured it out:

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity 

Does it Float?
One way to determine your hair's porosity is the water method. The water method or the "float test" examines how the hair behaves in room temperature water. Take a few strains of hair from different sections of your head (e.g. back, left side, right side, crown and front). Place it on top of a glass of water and wait 1-2 minutes to see how it responds. Do not push or manipulate the hair while it sits on the water. If it floats, your hair has low porosity. If it sinks to the bottom of the glass then your hair is highly porous. 

There is some debate as to whether or not one can truly test hair porosity this way because of the hair's structure. For this reason, there are a few other ways you can use to help figure how how porous your hair is. 

How Fast Does It Dry?
After washing and conditioning your hair as you normally would, allow your hair to air dry without blotting it dry or adding any additional products. Do not dry off your body for this test. If you hair dries faster than your body does, your hair is highly porous. 

Is It Smooth?
Another way to test your hair is to take a few strains of hair and gently slide your hair up the shaft from the tip to the root. If you feel any resistance or it feels rough, your cuticles are not flat and therefore porous. While this test alone is not definitive, pair it with the other two test you did to help determine your hair's porosity.

It's best to use all three test to help determine where your hair falls. So, 

Low Porosity: hair floats, dries after your body, stains feels smooth to the touch.

Normal Porosity: only one of the three tests indicated you had high porosity.

High Porosity:  two or all three of the tests indicated you have high porosity


The above test is not an exact science. These test are only used to help gear you in the right directions to help you care for your hair more effectively. Unless you carry out very expensive lab base test, you will not be able to truly determine the porosity of their hair in a definitive way. However, what is clear is the fact that hair responds in very unique ways based on its porosity level. 

You have no idea how helpful this has been because I can now make better decisions when I treat and style my hair. Things made a lot more sense once I figured out what was going on with my hair and why certain DC treatments worked for a while then completely ruined my hair. For example, I have both low and high porosity level. Low porosity does not respond well to too much protein, while high porosity hair requires it to minimize breakage due to gaps and holes in the hair shaft. In the past I thought I was protein sensitive because sections of my hair would break easily and I was looking at my hair as a whole. As a result, I would only do mild protein treatments once a month. The problem is, the parts of my hair (side, front and crown) would suffer because it needed protein much more than that. I couldn't figure it out and got so frustrated because I wouldn't see any real progress in these areas (past posts will confirm this). The back of my hair, which loved the lack of protein and needed increase moisture thrived and still thrives.

With this new knowledge I have made adjustments to my regimen and I've noticed a difference in the feel and look of my hair. I just wish I knew this information before. 

So what does this mean for my hair? Stay tuned....

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Shea Moisture....Where Have You Been All My Life?

From the title of the post, I am sure you've already guessed that this will be another review of Shea Moisture products. Two of these products are new to the line up and a part of the Moisture Retention line, which I've wanted to try for a while now because I have heard good things about them. In all honesty I did not need a new conditioner because I was fairly happy with my current conditioners. I've noticed however, that a few of my favs have new ingredients, which puzzles me. I mean as the old saying goes, if it ain't broke, why fix it? I am not quite sure if that is why my hair has not been responding to some of my staples the same way. Hair does change over time, so that may also be contributing to the issue I have noticed. Anyway, I thought I would give the following items a try in an effort to meet my hair needs. 

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner ($9.99 US, $12.99-$20 CDN)

Promise: Our all‐natural, daily conditioner moisturizes and repairs dry, lifeless, over‐processed and damaged hair.

Ingredients: Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Argan Oil, Coconut Oil*, Behentrimonium Chloride, Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B‐5), Avocado Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil. *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Let me just say, that this conditioner right here, is the business! When I put it on my hair my knots just melted away (and I get a lot of knots). My fingers were able to glide threw it and I loved that. I will need to stock up the next time I am in the States. I used the conditioner for 5 weeks in a few different ways (e.g. pre-poo, detangler, conditioner post-poo) and it worked out lovely any way I used it. My hair was detangled, moisturized and VERY SOFT. Overall, I will give this product a . It's a keeper.

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixer ($9.99 US, $13.99 CDN)

Promise: This intensely moisturizing and penetrating all-natural oil treatment repairs and strengthens hair. Strengthens strands from the roots, protects against damage and leaves hair silky and vibrant. Trace minerals detoxify hair follicles of impurities and residue. Argan oil restores shine and rebuilds hair elasticity. Shea butter deeply moisturizes and repairs damage to hair and scalp.

Ingredients: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Oil*, Argan Oil, Vegetable Squalene, Carrot Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Sebacic Acid, Sea Kelp Extract, Essential Oil Blend, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E). *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Well, I'm not sure what to say about his product. Did it leave a shine on my hair? Yes. Moisturizing? No, it was actually a little drying and the oil seem to just sit on top of my hair, which I didn't like. I used it on top of my twist while damp and on dry hair.  It didn't work either way. For these reasons I have to give it a .I haven't tried it more than a few times, so my assessment could change, but I really doubt it.

- = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

- = neither hit or miss; just okay

- = good product; really worth trying.

= amazing product!

The Benefit of Using Natural Products

There are hundred if not thousand of websites that provide recipes for natural and organic hair care, beauty products and remedies including shampoo, conditioner and hair color, that you can make using essential oils and ingredients found in your own kitchen and garden! If you have read and are not utilizing some of the ideas found in my article on Getting Creative with Homemade Recipes   then you will find that creating your own homemade products are easier than you think. Below I've created a list of ingredients to try when creating your own unique products

*Please use extreme caution when using any products for the first time, natural or not. If you are allergic to any of the listed ingredients then do not use it on your hair/scalp:

Almond Oil - This carrier oil is both nourishing and protective. It is high in linoleic acids, which account for its anti-inflammatory, acne reduction and moisture retention properties. Almond oil is a commonly used ingredient in beauty products as it treats and prevents dry, chapped and irritated skin (scalp). In addition to skin, Almond oil is great for hair. It helps condition, nourish, and soften hair while stimulating hair growth!

Aloe Vera - Aloe Vera improves the skin's ability to hydrate itself, aids in the removal of dead skin cells and encourages skin rejuvenation. Some have raved about its ability to encourage hair stimulation and hair growth! This product also has incredible moisturizing properties!

Avocado/Avocado Oil - This oil is rich in potassium, sulfur, vitamins A,D and E and fatty acids. It is very nourishing for dry hair and scalp as it replenishes oils lost through washing and coats the cuticles. It is especially valuable for those with eczema, dry scalp and other scalp ailments. It leaves the hair feeling smooth and soft.

Banana- The pulp is a great biodegradable moisturizer and lubricant, excellent for dry hair. It is an excellent humecant, locking in moisture and coating the hair shaft, leaving the hair smooth. The pulp is rich in potassium and vitamin A, B, C.

Calendula Oil - Moisturizes and conditions. Very good in soothing scalp and skin conditions like eczema. 

Carrot Seed Oil - This oil is a true powerhouse in the hair growth category! Carrot Seed oil is rich in Vitamins A, B, C, D and E. As you know Vitamin A, B and E are excellent for hair growth as it improve moisture for increased elasticity, conditions hair and stimulates growth.

Chamomille (Roman) Oil - This essential oil has anti-inflammatory properties and is very calming to the skin. It is both emollient and healing and thus is a wonderful addition to any skin care product!

Clary Sage - Astringent, stimulates  growth, kills bacteria. It is also believed to darken gray hair. 

Coconut Oil - Coconut oil is an amazing carrier oil! This is a great oil for general moisturizing and serves as a protective layer, helping to retain the moisture in your hair. Coconut oil does not clog pores (which can inhibit hair growth--and even kill hair follicles), making it great for the hair. It stimulates hair growth, softens the hair and conditions the scalp. It also can also help eliminate dandruff!

Evening Primrose Oil - Moisturizes and conditions the hair.

Glycerine - Natural emollient, pulls moisture into the hair.

Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) - Henna is believed to help provide stronger, smoother and shinier hair when used regularly. The dye is believed to penetrates the hair shaft, binding with the keratin in the hair while coating the hair, filling in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength and makes hair stronger. With its ability to smooth over rough cuticles, damage during combing and manipulation is reduced a great deal.

Honey - is a natural wonder full of properties beneficial to the hair. It is a natural humectants - meaning it attracts moisture and holds it in.

Jojoba Oil - The structure of Jojoba oil closely resembles that of your own skin oil (sebum). Jojoba is readily absorbed into the skin, is non-pore clogging and helps balance production of your natural sebum. Jojoba is moisturizing and helps prevent dry scalp. It contains linoleic acid and myristic acid, which account for its anti-inflammatory and moisture retention properties. It adds moisture and gives your hair extra protection, shine and body. It also cleanses and is revitalizing to hair and scalp!

Lavender Oil - This essential oil has multiple properties that make it important for overall general health and well-being. In hair care, Lavender is used as a scalp treatment for itchiness, dandruff, and even lice!

Lemon Oil - Besides having a refreshing and clean aroma, Lemon oil helps balance cell fluids and sebum and increases circulation. In hair care, Lemon oil helps control oily hair and gives golden highlights. It is also helpful in controlling lice.

Neem Oil - Neem oil has amazing healing properties and has long been used in Indian and Ayurvedic medicine. It moisturizes and protects skin. Its anti-inflammatory and pain relieving activity make Neem potentially useful against eczema on the scalp.

Olive Oil - Olive oil has been used for generations in natural soap products. It attracts external moisture to the skin yet allows the skin to "cleanse" and release sweat, sebum and shed dead skin. Olive oil is high in the antioxidants Vitamins A and E providing anti-aging properties and it has disinfectant properties, is moisturizing, soothing and healing. Simply a wonderful and gentle component in skin care!This oil stimulates cell regeneration, increases elasticity and decreases wrinkles. Pomegranate oil is a savior for mature, irritated, and dry, cracked skin!

Rosemary Oil - This is a well-known remedy for improving hair growth.It stimulates growth and has antiseptic properties. Rosemary also increases the circulation to the scalp therefore promoting hair growth and imparting shine to dark hair. Additionally, it helps control oily hair as well as dandruff.

Shea Nut Oil - This oil glides on the hair and scalp smoothly and helps heal and repair dry, damaged hair. It also creates a protective moisture barrier against the dry, harsh elements! (see shea butter for more information on properties).

Sweet Almond Oil - Contains Vitamin E and F, great properties for itchy scalp. It is mild and easily absorbed.

Tea Tree Oil - Tea Tree Oil has so many beneficial properties that it is a must for all medicine cabinets! This oil soothes irritated, inflamed skin and stimulates healing while minimizes scarring. It is a natural antiseptic, antifungal and anti-microbial and treats dandruff.

Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol) - As an anti-oxidant, Vitamin E prevents free radical damage from the sun and environment (yes your hair need UV protection too!). It improves moisture and helps soften the hair. Vitamin E also helps maintain the integrity (preventing rancidity) of product formulations.

Play around with different products. Remember what works for one person may not work for you. Have fun!

Avocado Magic

Now that I am going natural washing my hair seems to be a bit more of a chore sometimes. Eh, there are pluses and minuses with any hair type, so I have no real complaints.  Its all about finding a routine that works for you. My last protein treatment was about 6 weeks ago (which was a mild conditioner) and my hair was just feeling a bit off, so I decided to do an avocado mask treatment and I loved the results.

The last time I did the mask I was relaxed, so I wasn't sure how my hair would respond this time, but I must say, I am still loving this treatment for my hair.  Once again, my hair felt very dense/full. It also felt strong and the curls definition/shine after the mask was washed out was very impressive (see pics below). My hair doesn't shine like this without the support of hair products.

This is my hair prior to adding my leave conditioner (pics). Similar to before, I blended 1 ripe avocado with oils (EVCO, EVOO and JBCO), 1 egg and some honey. The mask was thick, smooth and silky and looked like a green coloured creamy mayo--it will smell like that too.

I applied the mask to dry hair, from root to tip, wrapped my head with saran wrap, a plastic cap and then two scarves to protect my pillow. I left it in over night and in the morning rinsed it out. I then used a moisturizing shampoo gently on my scalp in sections allowing the suds (not my fingers) to wash my hair and followed with my moisturizing conditioner/oil mix for 2 hours with and without heat. I don't actually think you need to moisturize for that long, I just got caught up on my computer and lost track of time. Finally I applied my ACV rinse as a final rinse, (I did not rinse out the ACV herbal rinse), applied some Giovanni Leave in and air dried as usual. That's it.

Even as I was washing out the mask I could feel the difference in my hair. My curls felt so defined, dense and strong. I was careful not to over manipulate my hair while washing it though because it wasn't very pliable, but not as stiff/hard like most protein conditioners.Overall, I am happy with the results. Moreover, I am happy that I can keep one of my favorite conditioners in my regimen despite my walk to natural side.

Regimen (old)

Since I have made a few "small" changes to my regimen in February I have noticed a huge difference in the texture and health of my hair. Logging theses changes on a daily basis has also made it easier to adjust my products as needed, which has helped me save my hair from a lot of damage that in the past would have me in tears. Since February I have removed some products and added a few. You'll notice my product list is now 99% natural, which was a long time coming. I also got this protein-moisture balance thing working--FINALLY! So here's where I am so far:


Basic regimen:

• Pre-poo with EVCO overnight 2x/month
• Scalp treatment overnight 1x/week
• Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo 1x/week
• Co-wash 1x/week 
•  Apply moisturizing conditioner 2x/week
• Apply mild protein 1x/3 weeks overnight
• ACV/herbal rinse 1x/week
• Apply moisture or protein based leave ins as needed
• Air dry with scarf
• Bun as low manipulation/protective style 
• Moisture and seal ends 1-2x/day
• Clarify as needed
• Henna as needed

Additional things:

Oil scalp 2x/week with JBCO/EVCO/Jojoba mix
Massage scalp daily

Relax every 8-10 weeks; apply EVCO to scalp and ends prior to relaxer
Multivitamin, Vitamin B Complex, Iron, Vitamin E and Omega 3-6-9 daily (I take these because I am a vegetarian and lack some nutrients)

Products:

• Moisturizing Shampoo: SM Moisture Retention Shampoo, Aveda Dry Remedy Shampoo 
• Clarifying Shampoo: Aveda Dry Remedy w/ Baking Soda and Avalon Organics Lemon and Shea Butter
• Moisturizing DC: AO Camellia Ultra-Smoothing mixed with  AO Honeysuckle Rose
•  Protein DC: Homemade Avocado Mask ,  AOGPB and Henna
• Leave ins: Giovanni Leave-in, SM Hold & Shine Moisture Mist and Live Clean Argan Oil Smooth & Shine Cream  
• ACV hair rinse
• Moisturizer: Oyim Lightweight Lotion and SM Organic Curl & Style Hair Milk
• Colorant: Henna 
• Conditioning Oils: EVCO , Avocado Oil, EVOO, Jojoba Oil, JBCO and honey
• Sealants: EVCO/Jojoba Oil mix and Argan Oil (alternatively)

Henna Treatment:

• (After prepping scalp with JBCO) apply henna on hair from root to tip on air dried hair, cover w/ saran wrap, plastic bag, old shirt and let sit for 8 hours/overnight (be sure to cover pillow with an old towel as well).
• Rinse out henna thoroughly and lightly shampoo scalp w/ moisturizing shampoo to remove traces of henna.
• Apply AOHR/AOWCC mixed with conditioning oils. Cover w/ saran wrap for 2-3 hours. 
• Rinse then apply moisture base hair as leave in.
• When hair  is dry oil scalp with oil blend, add moisturizer, seal and twist or bun.

Henna recipe: 

4 tbsp art quality henna (lawsonia inermis)

Filtered water

1/2-1 tbsp of JBCO, EVOO and moisturizing conditioner of choice after colour release

Allow to sit overnight

** I apply oil to my scalp before applying any henna because it seems my scalp is VERY sensitive. Lightly shampooing after application seems to help my scalp as well. I continue to use henna because I really like how my hair feels and looks after I use it.

ACV/Hair Rinse : 
3/4 tsp ACV
2 cups filtered water
mix of herbs of choice (optional)

Boil water and remove from stove, add mixed herbs (1 tbsp) and let sit overnight
In the morning strain herbs and add ACV

Homemade Avocado Masque/Brief Hair Update

*ETA: Please note that this was written when I my hair was relaxed. I am currently natural and no longer do an avocado masque treatment for the following reasons.

I have always found the love-hate relationship I have with "Diva!" has always been an interesting one. I rarely feel like I love her (which may be part of the problem), but when I love her--I really love her. I recently tried a homemade avocado mask and it was WONDER-F-U-L, emphasis on the "full". My hair felt thicker, fortified and strong, without feeling brittle or rigid. Once I followed up with my moisturizing conditioner it was silky and just lovely. And breakage?--what breakage? Now that may not seem like much success to the rare women that experience absolutely no breakage during their wash routine, but given the drama I have been experiencing over the last four weeks, it is a pleasant change. My hair air dried beautifully and looked thicker, if that is possible.

In its natural state avocado can be used as a protein conditioner, which is how I used it. I typically do a protein conditioner the week after a relaxer to replenish the lost protein and nutrients following such a harsh chemical treatment. Up to this point I have always used Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor, but this masque whooped that conditioners butt hands down. I say this, not because the Aphogee 2 Minute is a bad product, or even because it is hard on my hair. Unlike most protein conditioners it has never left my hair stiff or hard. I say this simply because the avocado masque is all natural--and hello-- it cost me roughly $1.95 (per use) when you take the cost of the avocado, the egg and the oils used. Compare that to Aphogee, which cost me $13-15 CDN a bottle. No real contest. Here is the recipe I used and how I used it:

1 small hass avocado

1 egg

1 tbsp each of EVCO, EVOO, JBCO

1 tbsp honey

 First I blended the avocado and oils well in a blender until smooth then add the egg and the honey. The mask was thick, smooth and silky. Your final product should look like a green coloured creamy mayo--it will smell like that too. I added about a tsp of lavender essential oil to mask the smell a little, but it's not necessary. If you are going to add a scent please be sure to use an EO that will benefit your hair in some way.


I applied the mask to dry hair, from root to tip with an application brush, wrap with saran wrap, plastic cap and then two scarves to protect my pillow. I left it in over night and in the morning rinsed it out. I then used a moisturizing shampoo gently on my scalp in sections allowing the suds (not my fingers) to wash my hair and followed with my moisturizing conditioner/oil mix for 2 1/2 hours without heat. Finally I applied my ACV herbal rinse as a final rinse, (I did not rinse out the ACV herbal rinse), applied my moisture based leave in(s) and air dried as usual. That's it.

Initially, I was worried because it wasn't drying as soft as I like, but once it was completely dried, it was very soft and strong. It also dried a lot smoother and shiner than it typically does. Overall, I am very pleased with the results. Eventually, I want to be able to replace all my synthetic based hair products, so I am very happy that this worked out so well. I just need to make sure I don't overdo it.

                                 

What's Hiding in Your Cabinet?

As you know I am slowly making my way through the various hair products that I have in an effort to streamline what I am using and to eliminate some of the non-natural products I own. As I get through the last bit of these products it occurred to me that there are several products that I think deserve an honourable mention despite their synthetic ingredients because they were quite effective on my hair. Some of you might be thinking, "well why get rid of them if they are doing a good job?" The only answer I can give is "because that is the choice I have made for myself and my hair". Gradually I have been replacing these products, with some success (and some disappointments), which I have also discussed below.

If you plan to try any of these products please don't let my words discourage you. My goal is not to discourage anyone from trying a product I've mentioned on my blog. Please remember, this blog is about my personal hair journey, highlighting the highs and lows of my hair (rightly named "Diva!") and as I've already established, she is a bit of a snob when it come to most hair products. What doesn't work for her, may work wonders for your hair....so always try things out for yourself.


Nature's Gate Aloe Vera Moisturizing Conditioner ($5.99-$7.95 CDN)

Promise: Gently effective, this exotic combination of herbs packed with natural proteins help condition, moisturize, nourish and restore natural softness and shine, giving you silky soft and tangle-free hair.

Ingredients: Water, Cetyl Alcohol**, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Panthenol, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Viola Tricolor (Wild Pansy) Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Stearalkonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.
** plant derived source said to be safe

Results: When I used this product I was pleasantly surprised. It isn't the greatest conditioner for deep conditioning in my opinion, but it is a great "cheapie" conditioner for co-washing. I swear my tangles just fell out with very little effort when I applied it directly to a tangled section for a few seconds. My comb just glided through my hair with such ease I did a little happy dance in the shower . When my hair dried my new growth was incredibly soft and felt moisturized. Overall, I was very pleased. The smell is pleasant and fruity, yet mild. It is just too bad it has all those darn chemicals in it. But if you are not as particular as me, I would definitely give it a try, especially if you can find it for $5.99 or less. Overall, I will give this product a . I would have given it more, but it didn't work like a conditioner should just a great co-wash product. Problem is, if you don't like to co-wash your hair, then this product may not be for you.

Giovanni Direct Leave In Conditioner ($6.99-$10.99 CDN)

Promise: Restores strength, luster and nourishment to abused hair. Moisturizes and builds body. This conditioner infuses each individual hair with proteins. Detangles for easy comb-out, easy styling.

Ingredients: Aqua (purified water) with *rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) oil, *nettle (Uritica dioica) oil, *thyme (Thymus vulagris) oil, birch leaf (Butela alba) oil, *chamomile (Anthemis nobilus flower) oil, *clary (Salvia sclarea), *lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), *coltsfoot leaf (Tussilago farfara), *yarrow (Achillea millefolium) oil, *mallow (Malva sylvestris), *horsetail (Equistetum arvense) oil, *soybean protein (Glycine soja), cetyl alcohol (plant derived), tocopherol (vitamin E), trace minerals, citric acid (corn), sodium hydroxymethyglycinate, grapefruit seed (citrus derived).

*bold/highlighted ingredients are synthetic and/or potentially toxic in high doses.

Results: When I used this product a few weeks ago I was so impressed I was wondering why I had stopped using it. My hair was so smooth and detangled beautifully. When my hair dried it was a lot straighter than usual and had far less frizz and incredibly soft. The best part is I had absolutely NO breakage. I was ecstatic ! This product has been hiding at the back of my cabinet since I began my journey simply because I was trying to reduce the amount of protein I was using. As I have become more educated about balancing moisture and protein I felt it was safe to give it another try, mainly to use up the last bit of it. The amount of protein in this product is very minimal given its location on the ingredient list. It is also a vegetable source protein, which is not as strong as other forms of protein. This product is such a great leave in that I think a person can over look the last ingredient (which is arguably NOT natural although it is promoted as such). Overall, I have to give this product an because I really loved what it did for my hair. That's a pretty high score, which says a lot given the fact that I am so picky. It honestly would have got a 8.5 if the product contained a natural preservative.

Herbal Essence Long Term Relationship Split End Protector ($2.99-$5.99 CDN)

Promise: "The beautiful beginning of the ends. Smooth them with a kiss of protective conditioning that strengthens your hair against split ends and breakage. I'll help keep your hair from splitsville with my quenching formula fused with extracts of red raspberry and satin. I'm a tip treat with a silky finish that feels so good."

Ingredients: water/eau, stearyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane, cetyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rubus idaeus (raspberry) juice, hydrolyzed silk, dimethicone, glutamic acid, fragrance/parfum, benzyl alcohol, citric acid, sodium chloride, edta, propylene glycol, dmdm hydantoin, red 33.

Results: Now the price alone is a huge plus, however I care more about the product itself and the effect it has on my hair. I will say overall, the product was just "fine". It moisturized well enough, but left my hair  a little stiff (if you can believe that ), but it may be the fact that I used too much. it may also be because of the protein, which I was not aware was in it prior to doing this review.  It also left a slight film over my hair, which I believed was because of the cones. It really didn't leave my hair feeling as moisturized as I would have liked, but "moisturized" enough none-the less. I found this disappointing because so many people rave about it. For this reason I have to give it a .

Oyin Homemade Hair Dew Lightweight Quenching Lotion ($12-$19 US or $24.00-$36.00 CDN--oh yes you read that correctly!!!!)

Promise: This creamy, conditioning leave-in is light enough for every day. it's great on 'naked' hair immediately after a cleanse, or as a way to reinvigorate tired hair all the way through your hair care cycle. Looking for a product to wake up and moisturize your 'second day hair'? Looking for a way to make your hair pliable enough to re-style without a full rinse? Just want to refresh your coils and curls and give them a shot of moisture before sealing? This leave-in is your answer! As always, mineral/paraffin/petroleum free and full of nourishing castor, olive, and coconut oils instead. We also combine with aloe vera to quench the thirstiest hair... and since it's glycerin-free it's appropriate for even the driest of climates. Give your hair a drink today!

Ingredients: purified water, castor oil, olive oil, organic aloe vera gel, behentrimonium methosulfate (emulsifier), coconut oil, olive squalane, optiphen (preservative), cetyl alcohol, fragrance, and love!

Results: So, I finally found a moisture based all natural daily moisturizer, but the gosh darn price tag had me shaking my head for days. I tried to get around it by going directly to the website, which you can see sells the product for 50% less and that's even with the exchange rate. The problem is shipment fees. They are so ridiculous it was actually cheaper to buy it locally. Luckily, the store I buy some of my products from was having a monthly promotion, which brought the cost down. Despite the price I simply had to try it after reading and watching several reviews on  it, the whole time hoping I would not be disappointed. Now let me start of by saying I love the fact that this products is made fresh to order so that they are not sitting on shelves for months/years. I wanted to wait before giving a review on this product simply because I was not impressed at all the first time I used it. It is not a bad product. It is moisturizing, however it seems like it took a while for my hair to respond to this product. Many people mentioned in their reviews that this product felt amazing the very next day after using it. Their hair was so soft, so manageable, blah, blah, blah...Well Ms. "Diva!" was not hearing it, at least not initially. Like I said it was good, but not amazing, especially for the cost--and I don't mean the Canadian price. I think $12.00 is pretty pricey for this product. Also, I was not that keen on the burnt-sugar scent. It was actually a little off putting to me; I am now use to it, but it took some time. Now, 6 days later, my hair seems to be warming up to the product. I may have been a little heavy handed the first few times I used it, not sure--but likely (LOL), which may have given me the lack luster results I saw initially. My hair feels very soft and moisturized. My breakage seems to be improving as well, so everything is gravy. With all of this taken in consideration I had to give this product an because the price is simply hurting my pocket.

- = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

- = neither hit or miss; just okay

- = good product; really worth trying.

= amazing product!

Hair Faux Pas: How to Get That Hair Growing...Finally

For the last little while I have been a little less motivated to continue with my journey. I think its something we all go through, but I think a lot of my frustration has been more about the fact that I have seen less than desirable results. The fact that I suffered a small set back hasn't helped the situation at all.

In an effort to keep myself motivated I have been doing my usual round on the internet. Reading this and that, which I enjoy doing because I can often find women that have similar hair textures and/or hair issues as my own. Hearing their story is always inspiring and it helps me push on. Seeing their progress gives me hope, but leads me to ask: why am I not seeing progress? I know the basic stuff I should be doing--or do I? Am I causing the issues with my hair?

Ladies, it goes without saying that hair grows, no matter what you do; it will grow. It also goes without saying that 99% of the upkeep and maintenance of my hair fall solely on my shoulders (pardon the pun). I only go to the salon once every 9-10 weeks for my relaxer touch up (self-relaxing was a disaster), and I have no plans to alter that relationship. So if these two things-- continued hair growth and personal maintenance--are indisputable, then I can only conclude that any hair breakage or damage I experience is the result of something I am doing or not doing to my hair, right?

Now I am not saying any of this to be hard on myself. I believe I have come a loooong way since the beginning of my hair journey in terms of knowledge and the general care of my hair. However, I am not seeing the results that I would like to see, plain and simple. Again, I am not being hard on myself or even unrealistic; I am not expecting to go from SL to APL in two months or anything like that. However, I am expecting to at least see a few inches of progress from one relaxer touch up to the next. Instead, I am seeing breakage on a consistent basis, that is not normal. My hair has also been hovering at SL for the last 4-5 months (taking setback into account), and that is not normal either. So clearly there are things I can be doing better, I just need to figure it out, which brings me to a beautiful hair diva's channel on YouTube.

Let me tell you, this woman Shlinda is funny, sassy, but more importantly, she points out the many hair faux pas that women are doing to their hair that leads to ongoing hair issues, information that may not be new, but helpful none the less. She points out the simple things that make me just shake my head thinking--"Really, how simple is that?! Why haven't I been doing that?" The following tips are some things that Shlinda has suggested on her channel and a few of the things are my own tips that are sure to get that hair growing.

1. Re-evaluate how you HANDLE your hair.

I personally can be VERY rough with my hair. When I M & S, when I detangle and when I style, I AM rough, plain and simple. I never really stopped to think about how hard I was being on my hair, but I have always been quick to tell my hairdresser or my BF, "oh no, you need to be careful" whenever they handled it too roughly. Well, as the saying goes "what is good for the goose, is good for the gander"--I need to start doing what I am instructing other people to do.

2. Maintaining a DAILY journal.

I typically don't do this. I make note of what I have tried/use whenever I wash my hair or use a new product. I also update my blog with any new discoveries, but a daily log is a different thing entirely. For many women this won't be necessary, but for newbies (I consider myself a sophomore) this is a good idea. Record what you are doing to your hair everyday.  How does it feel after using each product? How does it feel at the end of the day? At the end of the week? This will tell you if the product is a keeper or should be trashed. You will also recognize when something isn't going well with you hair sooner than later because you are forcing yourself to be more aware on a daily basis vs. weekly or monthly basis.

3. THROW AWAY products that simply don't work for your hair.

I've already said this and follow this practice, but I've slipped a few times. Now this is a tricky "rule" as some products need adjusting to work effectively on your hair. Not to mention no one is made of money and I know I don't have the luxury of buying and simply throwing out products because they don't work the first time around. But don't feel you must commit to a product simply because "everyone" else swears by it. Products do not work the same way on every person. You know when something is working for your hair or not. My rule of thumb is to let my hair be the true judge. If my hair is generally soft, supple, etc and I use a product that makes it feel like straw, I will not play around with that product to see if I can "make it work". It's simple not for me. Now if a product makes my hair feel "okay" then I will play with oils or combine it with other products to see if it works better. Over the last year or so I have learned more about my hair and I can make these decisions a lot quicker than in the past. Unfortunately, when I've waited too long to throw away a product this has been disastrous for my hair.

4. MAKE TIME for your hair

Now this is not what you think it means. As you know I take time out to do my hair on a weekly basis. What I am talking about is giving yourself the time required to do your hair with the least amount of damage as possible. These are two different things. Sure, I would deep condition my hair every week, M&S everyday, co-wash weekly (sometimes ), but I use to whip through this process. Sometime I did this because I did not have enough time to do these things, so I would rush through it. However, there were times when I just didn't want to do the things I had to do to maintain my hair, so I would just do a quick job to "get it over with".  I would quickly M&S for example just ripping through my hair so I could get to bed or out the door (which highlights tip #1), yet be confused when I saw broken pieces in my hand. I think taking the time to slowly do these things will make a huge difference in your hair. Small changes like waking up earlier, M&Sing as soon as you get home before you get too tired, washing or co-washing on days when you have more time to slow the process down can all be helpful in this area.

See these are all such simple things, but I've been sleeping on it I tell you. It's so simple and doesn't require any effort at all. Rather, it requires you relax on how much "effort" you're putting into your hair.

HHG!

Great Lessons from Natural Divas

I enjoy learning new things about hair regardless of the teacher because I think the more you know, the more equipped you are to properly take care of your hair. I know there are some women that have relaxed hair that will only listen to information from other women with relaxed hair. While I see the merit in this approach, I think there are some limitations (which I will get to later). 


I have learned so much from fellow hair divas on YouTube (e.g. JustThisGirl1, KISSseventyseven, ninapruitt, sexymami1001, chinablk, ulovemegz just to name a few) in terms of technique, product review and basic hair care information. These women have shown me it is possible to achieve and maintain long relaxed hair as long as you have the right education. Even more, they know what I am struggling with and can make suggestions that will help me out as I bump around figuring this hair stuff out. Similarly, I have found that my natural hair divas have also been immensely helpful in terms of knowledge, product and technique as well. Now I know your probably thinking, how can someone with natural hair help me out with knowledge, hair care products or technique to use on relaxed hair? Well this is how:


1. Knowledge
When someone makes the decision to wear their hair natural they ultimately become much more knowledgeable about their natural hair structure and the elements that improve the quality of their hair. Depending on the state of your hair prior to the decision to go natural you may notice changes with your scalp, hair moisture levels and protein tolerance, things that will help you understand the way you hair should be in the first place. For some of us, we have been relaxed for so long that we are completely unaware of our hair's baseline or natural state and what looks/feels normal. Something I have learned from my natural hair sisters is the fact that many hair products meant to help our hair actually disturbs the pH balance of our hair and scalp, which leads to the many issues we have (e.g. tangles, knots, breakage, dryness). As you know the process of relaxing the hair already disturbs the pH level of the hair and scalp. Our goal then is to try to help return it to normal pH levels, which we achieve by neutralizing the relaxer. From that point on we then have to work to achieve and maintain a normal protein-moisture balance in our hair to further protect it from damage, which we do with regular conditioning and deep treatments. Knowledge of what our hair should look and feel like only helps with these goal because it will give you something to aim for.

Growing up I believed dandruff was a "natural" condition that every black woman had to deal with. And what do you do with dandruff? If you grew up in my house you scratch the living day lights out of it to "lift" the dandruff so it could be brushed away, not knowing that this act was more harmful than beneficial for the scalp. Now my lack of knowledge of what a healthy scalp should look and feel like made it hard for me to address the issue effectively. Instead, I would use products that were masking the issue or making the situation worse. Effectively stopping our hair "ills" usually only requires that we look more closely at the products we are using on our hair because your hair/scalp is clearly telling you something about that product. Point and case, for years I have been using CON thinking it was the best shampoo for my hair, based on advice and lack of adequate knowledge about my hair. I also had the driest, itchiest scalp imaginable-- it drove me crazy. So I decided to tackle it. I kept using CON and my situation never improved. It was frustrating and I couldn't understand what the problem was. Eventually I stopped using CON (not because I thought this was the problem at the time) and began using more natural products, which began my hair journey. I also began using natural oils and  EO on my scalp, which slowly began to improve the situation. With time and determination my scalp stopped itching completely and it was not longer flaking; my scalp had achieve a more "balanced" state. In comes CON. In an effort to use up the last few bottles I had, I brought it back into my regimen. Within weeks my dry itchy scalp returned. Given the fact that CON was the only thing that I had changed to my product line up I had to conclude that it was the CON causing my irritated scalp.

The point I am trying to make has nothing to do with CON itself as a product--it works wonderfully for some women. It is more about the fact that my scalp was not healthy because it had been taken far off it pH levels (by relaxing) and never returned as it should. The product I was using simply was not doing what my hair was saying it needed it to do, bring it back into balance.


2. Hair Products
While it is not always the case, most women that have decided to grow their hair naturally tend to use natural products to take care of their hair. There are a number of reasons that they do this, but the one reason that stands out is the fact that natural products can produce great results. If you have been following my blog for a while then you know I am on a mission to use all natural products on my hair despite the fact that I am relaxed. I am not going to get into my decision to relax and use natural products here, but I will say that I believe there are a lot of benefits to using natural products on the hair/scalp. A lot of companies, in an effort to save cost and raise profits, use cheap ingredients in their products, which can damage  the hair with continued use. Now this is not the case for some women. They seem to have great results with products that use mineral oil, petrolatum, and sulfates; I have not. It wasn't until I began using natural products that I began seeing results with my hair. Now I know technique has a lot to do with our ability to maintain our hair lengths, but the products we choose to use has just as much, if not more to do with hair retention. If something is coating my hair and preventing it from getting the moisture it needs and requires there is a strong possibility it will break off.

Now my hair seems to be a real snob when it comes to hair products, which is why I named her "Diva!"; she likes what she likes and doesn't apologize for it. The unfortunate thing is many women that have relaxed hair do not use 100% natural products on their hair (not including oils of course!), which has not been that helpful to me when I am searching for products to use on my hair. Much of what I have learned about natural products has come from my natural hair divas and research. I think there is this belief that if you have relaxed hair you must use products that are "tailored" for relaxed hair. Similar things have been said about using "white" hair products on "black" hair. Both of these statements are myths. Hair is hair regardless of its texture, and it has the same needs--moisture, protein and balance.

3. Technique
No one would argue that relaxed hair is fragile. Improper use of combs, brushes or heat can cause damage leading to breakage. So it may come as a surprise that many believe that curly/ coiled natural hair is equally as fragile due to its structure. It took me a while to wrap my head around this argument, but as I learned more about my hair structure I understood why this is the case. Without getting into the mechanics of hair, tightly coiled hair has its share of limitations in terms of its ability to get adequate moisture and tangles. I have three close friends that have natural hair and only one of the three has been able to achieve very long length in her natural state. The only difference between this long loced diva and my other girlfriends is the dedication and time she puts into washing, deep conditioning and moisturizing her hair on a regular basis. The other two experience breakage, dandruff and tangles and have no idea why. Now before you ask the question, I am not one to "educate" other women on their hair when I am not ask for my opinion. I think it can come off as arrogant and truthfully I am not a qualified to give anyone direction. I can share my knowledge and that's it. And as I mentioned earlier, there are women that strongly believe that relaxed women can only educate other relaxed women about hair; not naturals. But I digress....

The care and dedication I see my natural divas use when moisturizing their hair (separating it into sections, gently combing with their fingers, combing from the ends to the root) are all very reminiscent of women with relaxed hair. In fact, there are more similarities than difference between relaxed and natural hair women in term of technique. 

So there you have it. There is a lot of knowledge you can garner from a natural hair sister, so I say get as much info as you can. Knowledge is knowledge, no matter who it comes from.