Sunday, October 30, 2011

Science of Black Hair: A Review

Like many black women I have heard and finally had the opportunity to read (in its entirety--lol) the Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care by Audrey Sivasothy. Yes I read it all, even the so called "boring" parts, which in my opinion is a must read if you truly want to get the true benefit of this book. 

 I want to start off by saying it is a very good read. I enjoyed the book because it goes beyond the basic information that many of us know about hair care (right products choice, develop a regimen, etc), and provides the reader with a deeper understanding about the structure of black hair and the reason it behaves the way that it does. Further, the author provides the readers with user friendly guides to help you begin a solid hair journey and maintain your hair, hopefully with a lot of success. I personally found the information in this book very informative. If for no other reason than the simple the fact that it helped me fully understand why I experience the various challenges I have with my hair. The ongoing issues I've had with slow growth and constant breakage at the side and crown of my hair, my protein-moisture imbalance, etc. all make a lot more sense to me now. Better yet, I have some sense of direction on how to resolve it as oppose to blindly stumbling onto it by trial and error. One thing I have learned is that you can not fix something if you don't know exactly why it is broken. Finally resolving my itchy scalp after so many years of using the wrong products has taught me that. The nice thing, is I no longer need to stumble blindly on my journey. Now I don't want to give the impression this book provides you with all the answers to achieving healthier hair. You will still have to do some work, paying attention and responding to your hair's needs. But I will say that you will be able to approach your hair journey with more focus and will have a better understanding of why things may go awry. It may also reduce some of the frustration and self-doubt you may feel as you encounter setbacks, as long as you fully commit to this process.

Now does this book cater to naturals or relaxed/texlaxed ladies? While some may not agree with me, I would say it is geared towards relaxed ladies a little more so than naturals. While the major principle used in the book applies to both hair types, there just seems to be a bit more emphasis on managing the issues related to relaxed hair (e.g. regimen guide, examples used). Now this doesn't bother me in the least because I was still toying with the idea of going natural while I was reading this book (I am still undecided as we speak), but some natural ladies may have a problem with it. However, when you read the first few chapters you will understand that regardless of how you decide to wear your hair there will be inherit challenges by the very fact that our hair grows out of your head a particular way: curly. With these curls there ARE weak points. I was under the false impression that these curls, once straightened by a relaxer, minimized those weak spots because there is nothing to loop around the comb--boy was I wrong. But I don't want to give away too much.

The final thing I will say is that the author provides a very extensive list of products that are beneficial for the hair, which she complied together based on "user testing", "widespread appeal"  and "ingredients that have met a certain standard" for promoting better hair moisture and protein integrity of black hair fibers (Sivasothy, 2011 p. 116). I point this out because many women are very interested in knowing what products to use, and many other books on black hair care often fall short here. I also wanted to raise this point because I wanted to emphasize the point that you should use caution when using this list as a guide for building your own regimen. Don't just pick up anything just because it is listed in this book. For one reason, not all hair responds the same, so what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. Secondly, I noticed that there were a few products that were included in the book that research has shown me are not actually the best products for  black hair due the high pH levels despite being "all natural" (e.g. Dr. Bronners Liquid Soap). Moral here: always be critical about what you read, and do further research where ever possible.

Overall, great book.I gave it a Smiley .  It is well worth your time if you are ready to take the plunge into the healthier hair club!


Smiley - Smiley = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

Smiley - Smiley = neither hit or miss; just okay

Smiley - Smiley = good product; really worth trying.

Smiley = amazing product!

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

New Regimen

After completing a few tests to help determine my hair's porosity I am now armed with the knowledge of how to manage my hair. I have made a lot of changes over the last six weeks or so and have already noticed a change in how my hair feels and responds to products. You'll also notice my products are now 100% natural, which you all know has been a goal of mine for a long time!


Basic regimen (low porosity):
  • Scalp/ herbal hot oil treatment overnight 1x/week
  • Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo (pH 6.0) 1x/week
  • Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 1x/month
  • DC Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 2x/month
  • Real Protein Treatment (pH 5.0) 1x/month 
  • Henna as needed (approx 1x/6 weeks)
Basic regimen (high porosity):
  • Scalp/ herbal hot oil treatment overnight 1x/week
  • Shampoo w/ moisturizing shampoo (pH 6.0) 1x/week
  • DC Moisturizing Conditioner (pH 5.0) 2x/month
  • Real Protein Treatment (pH 5.0) 2x/month 
  • Henna as needed (approx 1x/6 weeks)
Additional things:
Oil scalp every other day with JBCO/Jojoba Herbal Mix
Massage scalp daily
Moisturizing spritz as needed
Gently warm up conditioner before applying to hair
Multivitamin, Vitamin B Complex, Iron, Vitamin E and Omega 3-6-9 daily (I take these daily because I am a vegetarian and lack some nutrients)

Products:
  • Moisturizing Shampoo: SM Moisture Retention Shampoo (modified), SM Coconut and Hibiscus Curl & Shine Shampoo (modified)
  • Moisturizing Conditioner: AO Camellia Ultra-Smoothing and Argan oil
  • Moisturizing DC: Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (modified)  
  •  Protein DC: Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (modified)  
  • Leave ins: Specialized Recipe  
  • Moisturizer: Camilla Rose Almond Jai Twisting Butter (modified), Oyim Handmade Honey Dew Lotion (modified), SM Organic Curl & Style Hair Milk and SM Hold & Shine Moisture Mist 
  • Colorant: Henna 
  • Conditioning Oils: Infused Herbal Oil Treatment 
  • Sealants: Jojoba Oil (low porosity) and shea butter mix (high porosity)
  • "Growth" Aid: JBCO/Jojoba herbal mix  
Infused Herbal Oil Treatment:
Nettle, Calendula, Chamomile and Horsetail
1/2 C each of EVCO and Avocado Oil
infuse for minimum of 8 weeks
*once infused add various EO with each use

Moisturizing DC (modified):
2 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 tsp aloe vera juice

Protein DC (modified):
High Porosity
3 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
1 1/4 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 1/2 tsp aloe vera juice

Low Porosity
2 tbsp Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner
3/8 tsp hydrolyzed wheat protein
1/4 tsp herbal oil treatment, EVOO and Argan Oil
1 tsp aloe vera juice

Leave in:
1 tbsp Knot Today
1/2 tbsp aloe vera juice
1/2 tsp jojoba oil
1/2 tsp castor oil

Moisturizer/Styler (modified):
1 tbsp Camilla Rosa Almond Jai Twisting Butter
1 tsp aloe vera juice
1/8 lemon juice (add to lower to 4.0 for high porosity areas)

Spritz:
high porosity
1/3 cup water
3 tbsp aloe vera juice
2 tbsp veg glycerine

low porosity
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp water
1 tbsp veg glycerine 

Henna Treatment:
  • (After prepping scalp with JBCO) apply henna on hair from root to tip on air dried hair, cover w/ saran wrap, plastic bag, old shirt and let sit for 8 hours/overnight (be sure to cover pillow with an old towel as well).
  • Rinse out henna thoroughly and lightly shampoo scalp w/ moisturizing shampoo to remove traces of henna.
  • Apply moisturizing conditioner mixed with conditioning oils. Cover w/ saran wrap and let sit for 30 minutes under dryer
  • Rinse then apply leave in.
  • When hair  is dry oil scalp with oil blend, add moisturizer, seal and twist or bun.
Henna recipe: 
4 tbsp art quality henna (lawsonia inermis)
Filtered water
1/2-1 tbsp of JBCO, EVOO and moisturizing conditioner of choice after colour release
Allow to sit overnight
** I apply oil to my scalp before applying any henna because it seems my scalp is VERY sensitive. Lightly shampooing after application seems to help my scalp as well. I continue to use henna because I really like how my hair feels and looks after I use it.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

My Long Absence and Other News

 It's been a minute since I've posted a blog and there are several reasons for that. The two main reasons have been frustration and stress. I'll be honest. For some time now I have been seriously debating as to whether or not I want to continue relaxing my hair because I have just been so frustrated with it. As soon as I hit my stride I have a setback, and not a small one, a huge setback. I know everything takes time, but I am just so frustrated with feeling like I am starting from scratch whenever I hit a snag. I have had to cut--yes cut my hair at least three times in the last year due to breakage and uneven ends. Due to this issue I thought I made up my mind regarding my hair. I even went as far as to post my decision last month, but took that post down because I thought it might have been premature. Regardless of what I decided, at the present moment I am wearing my hair in braids to give it a break. If nothing else my hair will benefit from this very long stretch. In the meantime I am also reading the "Science of Black Hair", which I will be reviewing in a few weeks. So far it has taught me a lot about black hair, highlighting some of the issues I seeing with my hair. It is well worth the read if you have the time.

In other news...after several attempts I have finally made a hair moisturizer that I am happy with. I am happy because this has been a long time coming, almost a year! I tested it out on a twist last week and it felt a little heavy at first (I am heavy handed), but when I took my twist down my hair turned out pretty good: defined and well moisturized. It actually felt a little more moisturizing that the usual moisturizer I use (I did a side by side comparison).

So what does this mean for me now? Well basically that I can save my money while providing my hair with exactly what it needs. Not a bad thing at all. I think the final push I needed to get it done was the inspirational words of this natural sista on You Tube. Similar to her, I believe making your own products can be very rewarding. The best thing about it is you know exactly what is in it, and you can tailor your products to your own hair needs. And here's the best part: it cost a fraction of the price of so many all natural products on the market now--and mine IS all natural. Hearing all these points made by this young lady reminded me of the various reasons I attempted to make my own hair products in the first place. It was definitely the final push I needed to dust off my scale and go back to the drawing board. I'm glad I did because it was a big success. I have no plans to sell my moisturizer, I simply made it to meet my own needs.

Sunday, August 21, 2011

The Secrets of Emu Oil

Yesterday I was catching up on some of my subscriptions on You Tube and I was quite impressed with a natural hair diva's progress on growing in her edges with the support of JBCO and Emu Oil. As you know my edges have been a problem area for me for some time so I've decided to add  this area to my hair new growth challenge (starting August 28). Before I take on this challenge I wanted to do some research to ensure I am using the most effective product on this area to get the best results. Now I already know about the various benefits of JBCO and I've posted the results I've received the first time I used it. However, I have never heard about Emu Oil. So I went to work....

To my surprise Emu Oil has gained significant attention in the natural community for sometime, said to provide great benefits for the skin and hair. Sourced in Australia, Aborigines have been using it for years to help alleviate achy muscles and joints and as a salve to heal cuts and burns. Emu's Oil's biggest claims however, lie in its ability to cause cellular regeneration in the skin--sounds good so far. So what does any of this have to do with hair?

As it turns out, hair can also benefit greatly from regular use of Emu Oil treatments. Its regenerative capabilities it said to have nearly three times the normal cellular activity on the scalp helping hair look and grow in more healthier and become more resilient to environmental and hormonal stresses. As well, Emu Oil has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties, which help to break down undesirable buildup and residue at the scalp and roots, thereby increasing volume and manageability. 

Now, Emu Oil does not have the ability to regrow hair if the hair follicle has died. So if damaged follicles is the cause of your thinning hairline, it probably will not help much there (some argue otherwise). However, if the hair is simply weakened by environmental or hormonal stress, then Emu Oil has been said to help the skin (or scalp in this case) become alive again.   

As with all products, natural or otherwise, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do your research before attempting to use it. Although Emu Oil is an all natural product, the benefits outlined here are only available if the product has been processed correctly. Unlike EVCO or shea butter for example, this product must be refined to free it of any hormonal contaminants, blood, meat residue or any extraction solvents that may be used while processing the product. The best oils, whether it be Emu Oil or vegetable based oils are made WITHOUT solvent extractors to prevent unwanted tran fatty acids from being produced. As well, pure Emu Oil will  not have any synthetic anti-oxidants or preservatives added to it. One way you can tell the difference between refined and unrefined Emu Oil will be the colour and odour. Apparently refined Emu Oil is a very light (almost white) cream in colour with no odour, while unrefined Emu Oil has a strong odour and is a yellowish cream in colour.

Given the many benefits am I going to jump on the Emu Oil bandwagon? I don't know yet....I don't know if I like the idea of using a animal by product on my skin/scalp with even the smallest risk of contacting some nasty disease/bacteria, especially since I've decided to stop eating meat for that very reason. Refined or not, abstinence is the only guarantee I can get from contracting something, regardless of FDA standards or company promises. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but contaminated products slip by testing machines all the time--can we say food recall. I will stick to my simple JBCO for now and continue to look into it....I just thought this was worth sharing.

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