Hair Porosity...What's the Big Deal?

Porosity seems to be on (almost) everybody's lips. Why? How does porosity effect the quality of our hair? Well, porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retain moisture. It is determined by the cuticle layers, which allows moisture to pass in and out of the hair. If the cuticles are tightly closed (also known as low porosity) it will be difficult to get moisture into the hair. If the cuticles are raised (also known as high porosity) then it will be easy to get moisture into the hair, however you will have difficulty retaining that moisture.In both situations, the lack of moisture will result is dry hair, which has an increase chance of breakage. Normal porosity is the optimum hair state we want to achieve (or maintain) because it allows moisture to enter the hair shaft, while preventing too much moisture from escaping. The result, is healthy, shiny hair that thrives and behave in a predictable way (e.g. maintains hair style, easy to manage and manipulate). 

Porosity levels may be determined by genetic factors, but it can, and is often affected by external factors such like the environment, heat treatment, chemical use and how you handle your hair. Understanding and identifying your hair's porosity is important because it will ensure you are using the right products to address your current hair condition and meet your hair goals. 

I emphasize "current" because hair porosity can change over time. A person can also have different porosity levels throughout their hair. I for one have both low and high porosity hair. After doing some research, this was how I figured it out:

How to Determine Your Hair Porosity 

Does it Float?
One way to determine your hair's porosity is the water method. The water method or the "float test" examines how the hair behaves in room temperature water. Take a few strains of hair from different sections of your head (e.g. back, left side, right side, crown and front). Place it on top of a glass of water and wait 1-2 minutes to see how it responds. Do not push or manipulate the hair while it sits on the water. If it floats, your hair has low porosity. If it sinks to the bottom of the glass then your hair is highly porous. 

There is some debate as to whether or not one can truly test hair porosity this way because of the hair's structure. For this reason, there are a few other ways you can use to help figure how how porous your hair is. 

How Fast Does It Dry?
After washing and conditioning your hair as you normally would, allow your hair to air dry without blotting it dry or adding any additional products. Do not dry off your body for this test. If you hair dries faster than your body does, your hair is highly porous. 

Is It Smooth?
Another way to test your hair is to take a few strains of hair and gently slide your hair up the shaft from the tip to the root. If you feel any resistance or it feels rough, your cuticles are not flat and therefore porous. While this test alone is not definitive, pair it with the other two test you did to help determine your hair's porosity.

It's best to use all three test to help determine where your hair falls. So, 

Low Porosity: hair floats, dries after your body, stains feels smooth to the touch.

Normal Porosity: only one of the three tests indicated you had high porosity.

High Porosity:  two or all three of the tests indicated you have high porosity


The above test is not an exact science. These test are only used to help gear you in the right directions to help you care for your hair more effectively. Unless you carry out very expensive lab base test, you will not be able to truly determine the porosity of their hair in a definitive way. However, what is clear is the fact that hair responds in very unique ways based on its porosity level. 

You have no idea how helpful this has been because I can now make better decisions when I treat and style my hair. Things made a lot more sense once I figured out what was going on with my hair and why certain DC treatments worked for a while then completely ruined my hair. For example, I have both low and high porosity level. Low porosity does not respond well to too much protein, while high porosity hair requires it to minimize breakage due to gaps and holes in the hair shaft. In the past I thought I was protein sensitive because sections of my hair would break easily and I was looking at my hair as a whole. As a result, I would only do mild protein treatments once a month. The problem is, the parts of my hair (side, front and crown) would suffer because it needed protein much more than that. I couldn't figure it out and got so frustrated because I wouldn't see any real progress in these areas (past posts will confirm this). The back of my hair, which loved the lack of protein and needed increase moisture thrived and still thrives.

With this new knowledge I have made adjustments to my regimen and I've noticed a difference in the feel and look of my hair. I just wish I knew this information before. 

So what does this mean for my hair? Stay tuned....

source
source
source 

Shea Moisture....Where Have You Been All My Life?

From the title of the post, I am sure you've already guessed that this will be another review of Shea Moisture products. Two of these products are new to the line up and a part of the Moisture Retention line, which I've wanted to try for a while now because I have heard good things about them. In all honesty I did not need a new conditioner because I was fairly happy with my current conditioners. I've noticed however, that a few of my favs have new ingredients, which puzzles me. I mean as the old saying goes, if it ain't broke, why fix it? I am not quite sure if that is why my hair has not been responding to some of my staples the same way. Hair does change over time, so that may also be contributing to the issue I have noticed. Anyway, I thought I would give the following items a try in an effort to meet my hair needs. 

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner ($9.99 US, $12.99-$20 CDN)

Promise: Our all‐natural, daily conditioner moisturizes and repairs dry, lifeless, over‐processed and damaged hair.

Ingredients: Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Argan Oil, Coconut Oil*, Behentrimonium Chloride, Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B‐5), Avocado Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil. *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Let me just say, that this conditioner right here, is the business! When I put it on my hair my knots just melted away (and I get a lot of knots). My fingers were able to glide threw it and I loved that. I will need to stock up the next time I am in the States. I used the conditioner for 5 weeks in a few different ways (e.g. pre-poo, detangler, conditioner post-poo) and it worked out lovely any way I used it. My hair was detangled, moisturized and VERY SOFT. Overall, I will give this product a . It's a keeper.

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixer ($9.99 US, $13.99 CDN)

Promise: This intensely moisturizing and penetrating all-natural oil treatment repairs and strengthens hair. Strengthens strands from the roots, protects against damage and leaves hair silky and vibrant. Trace minerals detoxify hair follicles of impurities and residue. Argan oil restores shine and rebuilds hair elasticity. Shea butter deeply moisturizes and repairs damage to hair and scalp.

Ingredients: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Oil*, Argan Oil, Vegetable Squalene, Carrot Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Sebacic Acid, Sea Kelp Extract, Essential Oil Blend, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E). *Denotes Certified Organic Ingredient.

Results: Well, I'm not sure what to say about his product. Did it leave a shine on my hair? Yes. Moisturizing? No, it was actually a little drying and the oil seem to just sit on top of my hair, which I didn't like. I used it on top of my twist while damp and on dry hair.  It didn't work either way. For these reasons I have to give it a .I haven't tried it more than a few times, so my assessment could change, but I really doubt it.

- = not worth the money, don't waste your time.

- = neither hit or miss; just okay

- = good product; really worth trying.

= amazing product!

Hits and Misses for 2013

As a new year gets underway I am thinking about my future hair goals since my second big chop *sigh*. I have had some success with products in the last year, but I need to keep it going if I hope to reach BSL by January 2016. Here are a few products (and techniques) that created magic as well as a few disasters for my hair over the last year (note: some of these products have moved around as the ingredients seem to have changed slightly and my hair appears to be changing)

Hits

Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Ultra-Smoothing Conditioner
Giovanni Direct Leave in  

Avocado Oil

Jamaican Black Castor Oil

Olive Oil

Jojoba Oil

Virgin Coconut Oil

EOs

ACV Herbal Rinse

Detangling prior to shampooing

Adding oils to my conditioners 
Finger combing 

Sleeping with a satin scarf and satin pillowcase

Overnight deep conditioning treatments
Washing hair in twisted sections

Mild protein treatments once every 3 weeks

Avocado Butter blend as a sealant

Misses

Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Curl and Shine Shampoo

Neither Hit nor Miss/Just There:

Homemade Avocado Protein Mask  (after a small adjustment it was much better)
Oyin Lightweight Lotion

What I learned about my hair and products in general over the last year:

• Finger combing allows me to retain a lot more hair because my hair is tightly coiled and combs causes it to snap, even when wet. 

Well that's me and my journey thus far. Happy New Year to all my subbies...and may you achieve all your many hair goals in 2014!!!!!!

The Benefit of Using Natural Products

There are hundred if not thousand of websites that provide recipes for natural and organic hair care, beauty products and remedies including shampoo, conditioner and hair color, that you can make using essential oils and ingredients found in your own kitchen and garden! If you have read and are not utilizing some of the ideas found in my article on Getting Creative with Homemade Recipes   then you will find that creating your own homemade products are easier than you think. Below I've created a list of ingredients to try when creating your own unique products

*Please use extreme caution when using any products for the first time, natural or not. If you are allergic to any of the listed ingredients then do not use it on your hair/scalp:

Almond Oil - This carrier oil is both nourishing and protective. It is high in linoleic acids, which account for its anti-inflammatory, acne reduction and moisture retention properties. Almond oil is a commonly used ingredient in beauty products as it treats and prevents dry, chapped and irritated skin (scalp). In addition to skin, Almond oil is great for hair. It helps condition, nourish, and soften hair while stimulating hair growth!

Aloe Vera - Aloe Vera improves the skin's ability to hydrate itself, aids in the removal of dead skin cells and encourages skin rejuvenation. Some have raved about its ability to encourage hair stimulation and hair growth! This product also has incredible moisturizing properties!

Avocado/Avocado Oil - This oil is rich in potassium, sulfur, vitamins A,D and E and fatty acids. It is very nourishing for dry hair and scalp as it replenishes oils lost through washing and coats the cuticles. It is especially valuable for those with eczema, dry scalp and other scalp ailments. It leaves the hair feeling smooth and soft.

Banana- The pulp is a great biodegradable moisturizer and lubricant, excellent for dry hair. It is an excellent humecant, locking in moisture and coating the hair shaft, leaving the hair smooth. The pulp is rich in potassium and vitamin A, B, C.

Calendula Oil - Moisturizes and conditions. Very good in soothing scalp and skin conditions like eczema. 

Carrot Seed Oil - This oil is a true powerhouse in the hair growth category! Carrot Seed oil is rich in Vitamins A, B, C, D and E. As you know Vitamin A, B and E are excellent for hair growth as it improve moisture for increased elasticity, conditions hair and stimulates growth.

Chamomille (Roman) Oil - This essential oil has anti-inflammatory properties and is very calming to the skin. It is both emollient and healing and thus is a wonderful addition to any skin care product!

Clary Sage - Astringent, stimulates  growth, kills bacteria. It is also believed to darken gray hair. 

Coconut Oil - Coconut oil is an amazing carrier oil! This is a great oil for general moisturizing and serves as a protective layer, helping to retain the moisture in your hair. Coconut oil does not clog pores (which can inhibit hair growth--and even kill hair follicles), making it great for the hair. It stimulates hair growth, softens the hair and conditions the scalp. It also can also help eliminate dandruff!

Evening Primrose Oil - Moisturizes and conditions the hair.

Glycerine - Natural emollient, pulls moisture into the hair.

Henna (Lawsonia Inermis) - Henna is believed to help provide stronger, smoother and shinier hair when used regularly. The dye is believed to penetrates the hair shaft, binding with the keratin in the hair while coating the hair, filling in rough spots on a frayed cuticle. This adds a second layer of strength and makes hair stronger. With its ability to smooth over rough cuticles, damage during combing and manipulation is reduced a great deal.

Honey - is a natural wonder full of properties beneficial to the hair. It is a natural humectants - meaning it attracts moisture and holds it in.

Jojoba Oil - The structure of Jojoba oil closely resembles that of your own skin oil (sebum). Jojoba is readily absorbed into the skin, is non-pore clogging and helps balance production of your natural sebum. Jojoba is moisturizing and helps prevent dry scalp. It contains linoleic acid and myristic acid, which account for its anti-inflammatory and moisture retention properties. It adds moisture and gives your hair extra protection, shine and body. It also cleanses and is revitalizing to hair and scalp!

Lavender Oil - This essential oil has multiple properties that make it important for overall general health and well-being. In hair care, Lavender is used as a scalp treatment for itchiness, dandruff, and even lice!

Lemon Oil - Besides having a refreshing and clean aroma, Lemon oil helps balance cell fluids and sebum and increases circulation. In hair care, Lemon oil helps control oily hair and gives golden highlights. It is also helpful in controlling lice.

Neem Oil - Neem oil has amazing healing properties and has long been used in Indian and Ayurvedic medicine. It moisturizes and protects skin. Its anti-inflammatory and pain relieving activity make Neem potentially useful against eczema on the scalp.

Olive Oil - Olive oil has been used for generations in natural soap products. It attracts external moisture to the skin yet allows the skin to "cleanse" and release sweat, sebum and shed dead skin. Olive oil is high in the antioxidants Vitamins A and E providing anti-aging properties and it has disinfectant properties, is moisturizing, soothing and healing. Simply a wonderful and gentle component in skin care!This oil stimulates cell regeneration, increases elasticity and decreases wrinkles. Pomegranate oil is a savior for mature, irritated, and dry, cracked skin!

Rosemary Oil - This is a well-known remedy for improving hair growth.It stimulates growth and has antiseptic properties. Rosemary also increases the circulation to the scalp therefore promoting hair growth and imparting shine to dark hair. Additionally, it helps control oily hair as well as dandruff.

Shea Nut Oil - This oil glides on the hair and scalp smoothly and helps heal and repair dry, damaged hair. It also creates a protective moisture barrier against the dry, harsh elements! (see shea butter for more information on properties).

Sweet Almond Oil - Contains Vitamin E and F, great properties for itchy scalp. It is mild and easily absorbed.

Tea Tree Oil - Tea Tree Oil has so many beneficial properties that it is a must for all medicine cabinets! This oil soothes irritated, inflamed skin and stimulates healing while minimizes scarring. It is a natural antiseptic, antifungal and anti-microbial and treats dandruff.

Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol) - As an anti-oxidant, Vitamin E prevents free radical damage from the sun and environment (yes your hair need UV protection too!). It improves moisture and helps soften the hair. Vitamin E also helps maintain the integrity (preventing rancidity) of product formulations.

Play around with different products. Remember what works for one person may not work for you. Have fun!